Tight spot

[Ken Tannenbaum1]

I need to put a T into a 3/4 copper line with little room. I figure to use a Sharkbite Slip-T. I should be able to cut the pipe with a Rigid cutter but don't see how to deburr the pipe with so little room. Not even sure I can fit the Slip T into the pipe length I plan to remove. Probably need to break out much more wall to relieve the pipe from the framing...just don't know yet. I'm a home owner brave enough to do all the trades work but never used push-to-connect so want to do it right. If the cut pipe is clean, does it NEED to be deburred too? Thanks very much.

 

[Reach4]

I need to put a T into a 3/4 copper line with little room. I figure to use a Sharkbite Slip-T. I should be able to cut the pipe with a Rigid cutter but don't see how to deburr the pipe with so little room. Not even sure I can fit the Slip T into the pipe length I plan to remove. Probably need to break out much more wall to relieve the pipe from the framing...just don't know yet. I'm a home owner brave enough to do all the trades work but never used push-to-connect so want to do it right. If the cut pipe is clean, does it NEED to be deburred too? Thanks very much.

You want to deburr before putting on the Sharkbite slip tee. If there is a small burr, just use some emery cloth or some aluminum oxide sandpaper. For the far side, use a strip, and pull on the ends alternately. 180 grit would be good. Tilt the emery cloth slightly so that you are working on the first 1/8 of an inch of the pipe more than the part farther from the end.

If you want to know if there is a burr, drag your fingernail toward the end. Your fingernail is very good at detecting roughness and burrs.

 

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[Jadnashua]

The sealing O-ring is just a rubber (neoprene?) one...anything sharp can cut it. The debur tool both removes burrs and puts a slight bevel on the end of the pipe. It's good if you can use it. Note, when you use a tubing cutter, you don't often get much of a burr, but you do need to straighten out the end of the pipe as, depending on how dull your cutter is, the end will sort of curve the end in somewhat...you really want the end of the pipe as straight as you can get it.

 

[Ken Tannenbaum1]

Thanks for the info but I've gone the sweat fitting route for connection inside the wall to the 3/4 branch line outside the wall. Here's a question however. The spots still tight in there so I bought a 3/4 x 6" repair coupling to.enable cutting the existing copper to get a 3/4 x 3/4 sweat Tee Valve X F thread into the space. The part slides OVER the existing 3/4 pipe on one side and OVER the 3/4 sweat fitting on one side of the fitting...same on the other side. The thing is it's not tight on there...kinda wiggles a bit. It that OK?

 

[Ken Tannenbaum1]

Hey again....I think I got it right...seems exactly the way it should be. Thank you.