Three way switch with integral pilot... exists?

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Theodore

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Hi,
The light in my garage is via a three-way switch. But I can't see if on/off from inside my house. I've seen three way switches with a pilot light next to the switch, but that won't work with the 3 other switches that I currently have in the same gang box. Moreover, I've read that I would need an additional conductor to power this pilot.

Is there any three way switch that has a pilot light built into the switch handle, and does NOT need more than two travelers and a neutral? Or is that not possible electrically. Bottom line is that I don't want to rewire just to get this convenience.

All advice appreciated.
Thanks
Theodore.
 

Reach4

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Here are some switches: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=5503-LHW&section=41455 This one lights the toggle.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=1463-GLW&section=41455&minisite=10251 This one lights dimly around the toggle.

Cooper has 1303-7LTV (ivory) and 1303-7LTW (White)
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/BuyersGuides/RBG/B/RBG-B-Sec-06.pdf

When the load is off, there will be voltage between the travelers. This voltage will be there because the load provides a path. With a very low power load, such switches probably would not work so well.


If you search out "Illuminated OFF " "3-Way" switch in a search engine, you will find more such switches.
 
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hj

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The pilot light is wired between the two travelers, since one is alway hot and the other neutral, when the light is off, but it will not work if you are controlling a light with a ballast, such as flourescents.
 

DonL

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Put a Video Camera in your garage then you can see if it is on. And who is trying to rip you off.

I use IR.

The mice try to get the cat food. Cat wins.
 

Lone Star Charles

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The pilot light is wired between the two travelers, since one is alway hot and the other neutral, when the light is off, but it will not work if you are controlling a light with a ballast, such as flourescents.

Why won't the pilot light work if controlling a light with a ballast?
 

Kreemoweet

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Lone Star Charles said:
Why won't the pilot light work if controlling a light with a ballast?

The "pilot" depends on using the low-resistance path to the neutral bus through the incandescent bulb's filiment. Fluorescents and
LED's and other ballasted bulbs have no such path. It should be mentioned that the switches described above are not really
pilot lights (lighted with load ON), they are "illuminated" toggle switches, lighted with load OFF. Real pilot switches
require such things as presence of neutral and/or special additional wiring, and so are not suitable as general replacements
for existing 3-way switches.
 

Lone Star Charles

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The "pilot" depends on using the low-resistance path to the neutral bus through the incandescent bulb's filiment. Fluorescents and
LED's and other ballasted bulbs have no such path. It should be mentioned that the switches described above are not really
pilot lights (lighted with load ON), they are "illuminated" toggle switches, lighted with load OFF. Real pilot switches
require such things as presence of neutral and/or special additional wiring, and so are not suitable as general replacements
for existing 3-way switches.

Thanks for the explanation. I wonder why the manufacturers don't mention this on their literature. Seems to me that there will be an electrical path through the ballast windings, the same as through the filament. Does it have something to do with the fact that a magnetic ballast is an inductive load rather than resistive? Electronic ballasts have an even different wiring which may support the claim that the switch may not illuminate; but even then, it does seem as if there would be a path for a very low current flow. I just don't know.
 

Kreemoweet

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The "manufacturers" most certainly DO have and publish all that info, it's the clueless retailers who leave you in the dark. Ballasts with
"windings" are rather old-school these days. Don't forget we're dealing with AC here, and all references to "resistance"
should be read as "impedence", where inductance and capacitance can play a large role.
 

Jadnashua

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I think that there has been a change in the code requirements, and a neutral is now required at switches to allow for some of the more interesting features, like potentially powering an indicator light more reliably. Not sure when that happened, but it certainly would make things easier when trying to retrofit things.

As you're aware, the days of the incandescent light bulb are very numbered, and LED, florescent, and CFL bulbs have different characteristics, so things like pilot lights and many things like timers and dimmers no longer will work properly, or at least, the old ones won't. Many of my lights are on 3-way dimmers, and the company that makes them must make at least 3-4 versions, not counting various colors to account for the different loads they are to control. You have to get it right, and retrofitting different bulbs in the fixture often won't work without changing the dimmer. I know you're not talking dimmers here, but throwing in a lighted switch is complicated, too.
 

Lone Star Charles

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The "manufacturers" most certainly DO have and publish all that info, it's the clueless retailers who leave you in the dark.

It WAS the "manufacturers" literature that I referenced. I looked at all three references mentioned in post #2 - couldn't find it mentioned. Perhaps you could help - there are days that I can't find my car keys either and certainly appreciate when someone finds them for me.

Ballasts with "windings" are rather old-school these days. Don't forget we're dealing with AC here, and all references to "resistance" should be read as "impedence", where inductance and capacitance can play a large role.

Whether we call it resistance or impedance, it still seems to me that an electrical pathway still exists.

Cheers
Charles

PS: Still hookin' it up 'Old School'.
 

Reach4

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Whether we call it resistance or impedance, it still seems to me that an electrical pathway still exists.
I suspect that the toggle would glow, but no guarantees. Try searching out reviews that are less than glowing:rolleyes: and see if if somebody experiences the problem that you fear.

The other thing that can happen is that the current through the toggle switch lamp is high enough you could have a dim glow through some loads, such as LED bulbs. If that bulb is in a bedroom, that could be a major problem.

I agree that they have probably characterized each product, and makers should publish that in an easy-to-find place.
 
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