Threaded brass to ABS in tub drain

[Tacmatt]

Hello, I have a question I'm hoping 'those who know more than I' can answer.

First, new user, new homeowner, limited diy skills but eager to learn and do... I've never posted on any forum so please be helpful if I screw up. Any guidance is appreciated. Now my issue...

I was looking for water shut off in crawl space so I could turn off water to fix a dripping bathtub faucet when I noticed a leak coming from bathtub drain pipe. I'm pretty sure the metal drain that connects to ABS is brass (non magnetic, 1 1/2in, doesn't shine like a penny when scratched). The brass pipe is threaded. The leak, and I will confirm this before diving too far in, seems to be coming from the no hub coupling that connects the metal pipe to ABS. The coupling in the picture was found nearby in crawl space and is similar to the one attached. The one attached feels (and looks) deformed, as though the band on the brass side slipped off pipe (smaller diameter than original). I hope this is all making sense. My plan is to remove ABS wye section, rebuild and reinstall. My main question is what is the best way to make the connection between threaded brass pipe and ABS? I wonder if the coupling used is wrong. Also, not entirely sure there is a p trap but there is water in the drain, no smell, etc.

I'll post photos later, time to go to work.... Thank you all

 

[Cacher_Chick]

A couple of photos are worth a couple thousand words.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

No use asking the question until we see pictures.

 

[Tacmatt]

Here are some photos: First is a connector I found in crawl space that looks like the one installed, a corrugated no hub connector. Second pic shows the pipe to be worked on. The pipe setup to the left where coupling is visible is similar to the pipe to the right where the work actually needs to be done, the coupling is about 4in up between floor joists. Third pic is the coupling that I believe needs replacing, looking up between joists, it is the section of pipe to the right in previous pic. It looks like a brass threaded pipe connected to ABS with ProFlex coupling. Pic 4 is the actual work space, slightly different angle than previous pic.. Pic 5 is lower portion of pipe to be replaced. My plan is to cut ABS just to left of the hub in pic 5, disconnect ABS/coupling between joists at threaded pipe, rebuild ABS section removed and reconnect to threaded pipe with correct coupling. What is the correct coupling? I'm sure more pics would help so please let me know what would be most useful. Thank you

 

[seann]

Here are some photos: First is a connector I found in crawl space that looks like the one installed, a corrugated no hub connector. Second pic shows the pipe to be worked on. The pipe setup to the left where coupling is visible is similar to the pipe to the right where the work actually needs to be done, the coupling is about 4in up between floor joists. Third pic is the coupling that I believe needs replacing, looking up between joists, it is the section of pipe to the right in previous pic. It looks like a brass threaded pipe connected to ABS with ProFlex coupling. Pic 4 is the actual work space, slightly different angle than previous pic.. Pic 5 is lower portion of pipe to be replaced. My plan is to cut ABS just to left of the hub in pic 5, disconnect ABS/coupling between joists at threaded pipe, rebuild ABS section removed and reconnect to threaded pipe with correct coupling. What is the correct coupling? I'm sure more pics would help so please let me know what would be most useful. Thank you

It looks like you have a transition coupling connecting 2" abs to the outlet on a brass tub waste overflow assembly. You could probably fix the leak by simply tightening the band a little, if the brass tailpiece is not rotted out and causing the leak. And your right, you have no P-Trap. You should have a P-Trap. No offense but I feel like based on the pictures of your situation and your questions, that adding a trap to this tub may be out of your skill set. And I don't know if any of us can give you enough written detail to walk you through it. At least for me as a plumber, it's one of those things that I would have to see in person the determine the best way to proceed. You may consider calling a plumber or someone with some plumbing knowledge to help you on this one. Essentially, it's because the drain line is directly below the tub drain, it looks like you would need to install a P-Trap and then add a 2 x 1.5" wye down line a couple feet (on it's back) to tie the tub drain line from your P-Trap back into the wye. Bestluck.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I would start by making sure you know exactly which connection is leaking, because water could come down from any of the connections on the tub waste or the overflow. Assuming the downstream riser is the vent, the sanitary tee there is installed facing the wrong direction too.

 

[Michael Young]

Here are some photos: First is a connector I found in crawl space that looks like the one installed, a corrugated no hub connector. Second pic shows the pipe to be worked on. The pipe setup to the left where coupling is visible is similar to the pipe to the right where the work actually needs to be done, the coupling is about 4in up between floor joists. Third pic is the coupling that I believe needs replacing, looking up between joists, it is the section of pipe to the right in previous pic. It looks like a brass threaded pipe connected to ABS with ProFlex coupling. Pic 4 is the actual work space, slightly different angle than previous pic.. Pic 5 is lower portion of pipe to be replaced. My plan is to cut ABS just to left of the hub in pic 5, disconnect ABS/coupling between joists at threaded pipe, rebuild ABS section removed and reconnect to threaded pipe with correct coupling. What is the correct coupling? I'm sure more pics would help so please let me know what would be most useful. Thank you

ok. so you have a combination with water flowing to the left (at least to the left in your picture). Then the tee fitting going to the tub is a tee laying on its back, facing up (illegal) and even if it wasn't illegal, the fitting is also backwards. You need to cut down-stream of both drops. Install a wye with street 45 to keep things good and tight. That should allow you to roll a trap to connect the tub. You'll need to re-install the section of pipe and the combination located upstream of that. Back to the tub. Don't make a transition. Buy a glue-style tub waste and overflow and simply replace ALL OF IT with glued fittings.

 

[Tacmatt]

Thank you all. Based on your replies I have had two plumbers come out and check things out. Both plumbers had a similar take on the issues involved, and both suggested I save money by doing it myself, so here I am again to check in and see how their advice pans out.


The brass tailpipe from tub is 1 1/4 connecting to 1 1/2in abs whereas the coupling is for two pipes of the same diameter. A gray Fernco was specifically cited as the best coupling. Replace the portion of pipe at the right of pictures where the clean-out is with a P-Trap. The slope was more than adequate for drainage. That sounds relatively easy but I'm sure many of you can blow holes in the simplicity. Please advise.

You need to cut down-stream of both drops. Install a wye with street 45 to keep things good and tight. That should allow you to roll a trap to connect the tub. You'll need to re-install the section of pipe and the combination located upstream of that.

You are correct, water flows to left in picture. Tub drain is at right of picture, vent is on left where coupling is visible. Following water flow (right to left in pic), are you suggesting a wye streeet 45 to replace clean out piece, then to P-trap, then sanitary tee? Is the sanitary tee correct? And, I'm impressed, you can tell by pic that pipe is backwards and on its side. Besides experience is there an easy tell that I don't see?

As always, thank you all, your superior knowledge and experience is appreciated.