Thinking my Pressure Tank Bladder Failed

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wardpower

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First time poster here. I've fixed/solved probably a half dozen issues myself thanks to this forum. Everyone smarter than me that contributes, it is much appreciated.
I bought a house with well and septic about six months ago so now I'm learning how it all works.

A month or two or three ago I was getting a really bad water hammer in the basement pipes when the water softener would cycle, vibrating/pulsating the basement pipes, and the softener itself was really loud, I drained the pipes and added iron out to the salt tank and directly into brine water which seemed to fix it.
Now just recently the well pump seemed to be cycling a little more frequently and making more noise than usual. After researching in this forum, I drained the tank, checked pressure, 15 psi, filled it up to about 38, then filled it back up with water. Didn't really seem to make a difference, taking about 20-25 seconds to fill the pressure tank. Pressure switch kicks in around 45 psi and kicks off a little over 60, and the needle doesn't move smooth up to 60+ and stop, it wiggles back and forth a few psi for a split second after well pump stops. Next day I cycled the pressure tank to full and shut pump and valves and drained the tank, should be little over 9 gallon drawdown and I got about 6 gallons. I don't know if the gauge read like this before, never paid attention to it. Since I started doing all this I'm getting lots of rusty sediment in the pre-softener Rusco screen filter I keep draining out. The vibrating when the pump is running is coming from the water pipe that bypasses the softener and feeds the kitchen sink cold, ice maker saddle valve line, and I'm guessing outside spigots. If I touch the pipe while pump is running I can dampen vibration. Also just tonight it seems like air is coming through the faucets a bit even after pipes are primed.

Question is, can I do anything else to diagnose a failed bladder? I never got any water out of the Schrader valve. The pressure tank is a wellmate WM-9, picture link below. I called the well company and they said the well pump was last replaced in 2006 with a 1-1/2 horse 10gpm pump (they may or may not be right about the gpm), and I think they said the tank was installed about that time. Dunno how deep the well is but state and county databases say all documented wells on my street are in the 350 ft range. Guessing the well was drilled in 74' when the house was built, the house has copper piping, 3 bed 4 bath with lots of fixtures. Water softener is a kinetico K30 if that matters.

Also, what's the best place to buy a new wellmate tank if I need to? I most likely wanna go bigger if I have to replace it. the WM-12 seems to be the same size fittings and width, just taller, so I could swap that one easier, anything larger and I'd have to redo the PVC arts and crafts at the base of the tank and I'm not a plumber so I don't know what I might mess up doing that myself.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!

https://imgur.com/a/G3Jc6
 

Reach4

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wellmate WM-9 is indeed a bladder tank. It has a replacable bladder. PumpMD has gotten better results by putting in the next size bladder when replacing. However that is for a buried tank, so replacing the bladder is easier than putting in a new tank.

If you do put in a new tank, make it a diaphragm tank. They are more durable. Flexcon and Well-X-Trol makes good ones.

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LLigetfa

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Question is, can I do anything else to diagnose a failed bladder? I never got any water out of the Schrader valve.
I assume the air valve is at the top of the tank so you would only get water coming out if 100% of the air was gone so that is not a conclusive test. If the air pressure drops over time that indicates the bladder is leaking.

BTW, a reduction in air above the bladder should not manifest as water hammer downstream from the tank.
 

LLigetfa

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Oh, I forgot to mention... if you have a lot of iron in the water, it can adhere to the sides of the tank and the bladder reducing the amount of drawdown. On wells with lots of iron, a hydro-pneumatic tank is a better option but they need to be larger than a bladder tank.
 

wardpower

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That does make sense. I think there is a lot of iron in the water and I'm moving knocking and shaking the tank around throughout all of this where it usually just sits static. Probably knocking loose iron sediment.

I'll keep an eye on the air pressure and see if it goes down.
 

LLigetfa

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The iron usually has the consistency of baby poop and it sticks just like baby poop does to a mohair blanket. Its not as easy as opening the draincock on the tank to blow it down. What I do is to inject air into the water stream to stir it up.
 

wardpower

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There's a rusco screen filter in my pipework that filters everything going into the water softener. Is there any reason it would be a bad idea to have a filter like this on the incoming water line before it goes into the pressure tank?
 

Craigpump

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There's a rusco screen filter in my pipework that filters everything going into the water softener. Is there any reason it would be a bad idea to have a filter like this on the incoming water line before it goes into the pressure tank?

Yep, if that screen gets plugged excessive pressure can build up which will dead head the pump.
 

LLigetfa

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There's a rusco screen filter in my pipework that filters everything going into the water softener.
Does the filter catch anything and if so, what does it trap? If it does and is not purged, it could potentially clog completely, dead heading the pump as Craig said, overheating it from a lack of cooling flow.
 

wardpower

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It catches a bit of rust colored sediment, and I purge it regularly. It seems to do it's job well. I only ask because since I've been messing with the pressure tank it needs a purging/draining every day or two rather than every week or two and it only filters the pre softened hot and cold water, not the unsoftened cold water line that goes to the kitchen sink cold side and ice maker and I presume some spigots as well. I can flush the kitchen cold side easy enough but did get a few brown ice cubes.
 

Reach4

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Completely drain your pressure tank 2 or so times in a row to get rid of sediment. There should be a spigot for that.

For your new tank, you could elevate it a bit to make draining easier and better. A 24 inch square paver block is one possible thing to use.
 

LLigetfa

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It catches a bit of rust colored sediment, and I purge it regularly.
How much is a bit and how often is regularly? You don't say how fine or coarse the filter is.

I have a 100 mesh filter before my micronizer which is before the pressure switch and HP tank. I put a long nipple and ballvalve in place of the plug on the filter which catches less than a teaspoon of sand in 6 months. Fine clay sediment goes right through it and collects in my HP tank where I purge it and the line to the iron filter with air and water.
 
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