Controller and all valves are Rain Bird brand. Controller is testing normal at 24 volts ac. No zone will operate in either manual or auto mode unless I disconnect the black wire supply from the controller to the black wire on the master valve solenoid and open the valve flush then all zones will run as programmed or in manual control mode. I would like to test the supply wires from the controller to the master valve to eliminate the possibility of one being broken. I believe I do by disconnecting the common (white) and, in my case, black wire from the controller and using a multimeter set to the lowest ac voltage setting that will allow me to see if there are 24 volts ac getting to the master valve. My confusion is which white (common) wire goes to the master valve. I have not seen two common wires attached to a Rain Bird controller in any trouble shooting video I have watched to date. Any input is appreciated.
Testing Valve Electrical Supply Wire and Solenoid
- Thread starter Wpollock
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The white common wire is usually daisy chained at all valves but you do not have to disconnect the white common wire for a reading.
I'm suspecting the solenoid has an open. Place an ohm meter on the black wire and the common or at the solenoid itself. A good solenoid will read 20-60 ohms and usually you'll be in the middle. When the black is connected and the controller is active, place the volt meter at the solenoid for a 24 volt check. You'll probably get a good voltage reading of at least 18v's. Long runs will have some voltage drop.
Another way to bypass the MV is turn the solenoid about a 1/4 turn counter clockwise and this will open the valve. MV valves are rarely needed and not long ago another post from TX an MV was used so it must be a normal practice in some areas. For freeze protection it might be useful to drain the system for the winter season or keeps the static water pressure of all the zone valves when not in use. The MV connection is primarily used to control an irrigation pump and an MV is the same as a zone valve.
I'm suspecting the solenoid has an open. Place an ohm meter on the black wire and the common or at the solenoid itself. A good solenoid will read 20-60 ohms and usually you'll be in the middle. When the black is connected and the controller is active, place the volt meter at the solenoid for a 24 volt check. You'll probably get a good voltage reading of at least 18v's. Long runs will have some voltage drop.
Another way to bypass the MV is turn the solenoid about a 1/4 turn counter clockwise and this will open the valve. MV valves are rarely needed and not long ago another post from TX an MV was used so it must be a normal practice in some areas. For freeze protection it might be useful to drain the system for the winter season or keeps the static water pressure of all the zone valves when not in use. The MV connection is primarily used to control an irrigation pump and an MV is the same as a zone valve.
