TEST RESULTS IN: Please recommend Softener and Filter system for our new to us house with a well

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SleeperinSeattle

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Hi,

I'm curious about getting a whole house water filtration and softener system for our new to us house that is on a well.

It's our first time having a well and we don't know much about water filtration and softener systems- nor wells...

Here's some data about my water and system:

Existing pipe is 1 1/4 inch.
Here's what the well inspector said:
PH was 7,
Iron was 1MG/L,
Hardness was 4 GPG.

Raw Water Analysis said:
Iron: 1.97 Mg/l,
Manganese: 0.702 mg/l,
pH: 7.1,
Hardness: 5 GPG,
TDS: 146 mg/l,
Hydrogen Sulfide: 0.00 mg/l,
Ferrous Iron: .5
Ferric Iron: .5
Colloidal: 3PPM

And here' s the data from the well inspector about the well and equipment when we were doing the house inspection:

WELL TEST Results:

Source Description:
The source is a 6” drilled well that is to the right of the house behind the pump house.
The well stick up is about 6” above grade. A search of the department of ecology website was successful. According to the well log the well was drilled in 2000 to a completer depth of 150’ and has a static water level of 95’. There is a unique well tag on the well casing.
----------
Component Inventory & System Description
There is a 1 1/2-HP/230V/3WIRE/1PH submersible pump that is installed in the well on a pitless adapter, the well pump fills a 300-gallon storage tank.

There is a 1-HP/MultiStage Booster pump that pulls from the storage tank and fills a pressure tank. There is a 1 1/2-HP/230V/3WIRE control box with reset button.

There is a Water Worker 44-gallon pressure tank (Date code 2013), with companion pressure switch, pressure gauge, pressure relief and hose bib that are part of the pumping system.

Piping components are 1 1/4” PVC.
-----------
Component Assessment:
Pump System: 1 1/2-HP/230V/1-PH/3-Wire submersible pump.
• Motor Windings Resistance: R-Y: 8.4-Ω, B-Y: 2.1 SATISFACTORY
• Motor Conductor Insulation Resistance: ≥5M-Ω - SATISFACTORY
• Start Capacitor- SATISFACTORY
• Booster Pump Windings- SATISFACTORY
• Well Cap– SATISFACTORY
• Pressure switch– SATISFACTORY 40/60-PSI.
• Zero Withdrawal Pump Cycle Time: :17 Seconds UNSATISFACTORY a
short pump cycle is hard on the pump, this happens because the tank is
under-sized.
• Pressure gauge- SATISFACTORY
• Pressure tank- UNSATISFACTORY pressure tank is under-sized and
waterlogged and should be replaced. When you put a tire gauge on the
Schrader valve air seeps out of the tank.
• Electrical conditions: SATISFACTORY
Environmental Conditions/Sanitary Conditions:
• The well is on the right side of the house behind the pressure tank, sanitary
conditions around the well are SATISFACTORY. Pressure tank and its
components are in the pump house and are in SATISFACTORY sanitary
condition.
• There were no leaks visible on the system and there was no rodent activity
present.

Peak Demand Test:
Water was withdrawn from the system at a rate of 10 GPM. The water clear and there was no hydrogen sulfide odor present.

----------------------------
With that data, what would you recommend for a whole house filtration and softening system? I've been reading on here and I see most recommend going with a Fleck or Clack softener system.

So far, I've gotten three bids:

1.
Greensand Plus Filtration System--------------------------
1 ea.: NWT-1252-WS1-M-GSP Greensand plus filter system with the following features:
WS1 NSF rated high flow electronic meter initiated control valve, . includes 1” bypass valve.
Conditioner tank is NSF rated polyglass with a filter media capacity . of 2.0 cubic ft.
Electronic high flow metered control valve for efficient chlorine and . water usage, includes bypass valve.

Chemical Metering Pump------------------------------------------------
1 ea. Walchem EWN B11 VCURA metering pump and 15 gallon solution tank for injection of diluted chlorine (regular bleach/water solution).

Activated Carbon Filtration System-----------------------------------
1 ea.: NWT-1054-WS1-T-AC Activated carbon filter with the following features:
WS1 NSF rated high flow electronic timer initiated control valve, . . includes 1” bypass valve.
Conditioner tank is NSF rated polyglass with a filter media . . . capacity of 1.5 cubic ft.

Water Conditioning System
1 ea.: NWT-1054-WS1-M “Matrix” Water conditioning system for, hardness, iron, and manganese reduction, with the following features:
45,000 max grains Hardness removal capacity.
260# capacity brine tank (initial salt fill included).
Electronic high flow metered control valve for efficient salt . and water usage, includes bypass valve.

Total Installed Price (If Installed With Greensand System): $6490 plus tax

That's first one is the cheapest...

Then there's this one:
2.
FF7 Air 13 | Air Injection Metals System | 2 1 $2,312.00
FF3 Soft 12 | Ion Exchange System | 2 1 $2,289.00
MP1 Misc Plumbing- Pex/Brass 1 $1,250.00
ME1 Misc Electrical 1 $225.00
RL1 Service | Install Labor 5h @ 220.00per hour: $1,100.00

Total Installed Price: $7,176 Plus tax

And the most expensive one:
3.
Co-Ag Water system with backwashing fitler & 20ft/Mi2 $6795
Puretech Softner $1900
200lbs of salt included

Total Installed Price: $8695 Plus Tax

I had one other guy come out- but he still hasn't given me a bid in writing...

He said I should replace the pressure tank system and get a new controller system and basically start from scratch and it would be $10k- $16k

Like everyone, we want the best and healthiest water possible for a reasonable price.

I'm totally fine doing pex or pvc work- and could even learn to solder copper... Which ever is considered best...

We have four bathrooms and have 4 people (4yr old and a 1yr old) now and may have 6 people living with us in the near future (grandparents- as they are getting up there).

Please let me know your recommendations for what to buy and where to buy it from... I looked up the closest Fleck dealer and he's about 60 miles away and his website doesn't say he serves the Seattle area... And, I couldn't find a Clack dealer...

I'm sure I left a ton of needed info out- I tried to provided all I know...

Thank you!

SleeperinSeattle
 

SleeperinSeattle

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Okay, so I ordered a water test kit last week and it will be here this weekend, and then will be able to get more specifics of what's in my water- and then hopefully design a filter and softener system to make the water the best it can be. I'll update this post when I get the results.
 

ditttohead

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Your water looks to be fairly easy to treat. It is slightly "unique" in a few of the readings, I am very interested to see the final lab results to see what else is going on. Can you post some pictures of your existing plumbing? How "handy" are you? Can you change the oil in your car or are you capable of rebuilding the transmission? Silly question but is pertains to your DIY ability. Many people want to DIY water treatment, but they can't change a tire or oil in their car, yet they want be a water expert... be honest. Being a well owner is great, but the prices you have shown may seem high, they typically come with a phone number to call if the water is not great like you expect. If you make enough that these numbers are not that big of a deal then I can definitely make a recommendation once I see the final water report. If these numbers are simply not doable (I totally understand this), the DIY may be a reasonable option, but with this comes the expectation that you may have to add or adjust the water treatment methods as you go. Local water guys tend to have years of experience knowing the unique water problems that occur in a region that a water test won't show. Local expertise is worth a lot compared to some guy in his moms basement running 6 websites, one of which is water treatment... the others being candles, Cheap trendy junk from China, Skateboards, etc..
 

SleeperinSeattle

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Hi,

Thank you for the response.

I'm very curious about the lab results too- I'll really appreciate any and all input and opinions once I post the results here.

Here are some pics:
ACtC-3fyl-D_p91O1wL2-_EzIt8ns84oUpFnAag73j9Qr5LYrap7ptc1jxunHZKocXCFqUxAlyR1f41W8MLHWheoGi9z606GcOoiig89QSJY7Hh60-4l_SNT64Dl1BExxMn-YQL8NCKsaI2EEF6xjmoDdCOXNA=w852-h1136-no



ACtC-3feqP9fOmFzz5mhMTqt9BmRS6--PIrHgIjzvit3mL0ghNJFVFFfzv_EkDhoOBMLNix2274yUwYJGTo9USf_CBi9MAcBg92lMUYm50PHuj43iMVkG19hxPKQ4jdgGmFH3pdXgJwD6K3NIt3nzy6s1TUiMw=w852-h1136-no


ACtC-3c6P3JRihJf-qWDESsXoYKie02nuinb-NK7Jh6xdbIVf583lBEAUdt-kVR7Z9kCw2Fu9slbj8JZOnX7nJnZlKYBZhJtmNYKfNDCLULN5lOrqE_-5N75-p2di8eQLMJi3hVnlHNDJe49JYDE_73tSlKBPA=w1515-h1136-no



ACtC-3fHPnRaCIUwRc5s2JTvHrGqqnJwQPS3uhwnh86ppsihsXWBvvjnA1ZfczjEHw6zwXjLdEkr8gSOcyYWiSviWoeYp07k99IwtEpPX7ZtqLz0kFOeQA2MGat2EY9eIjsYuXh6vMas6Br1xP0RjMmSgzkQVw=w1515-h1136-no


We have a fire suppression/sprinkler system- hence the 300 gallon tank that needs to be cleaned out with water and bleach. Interestingly, they plumbed the water from the well into the bottom of the tank. I've been told it's best to have it enter from the top...

I'd say I am pretty handy- although no experience with wells... I'm a car guy... So I can do pretty much anything a car needs- but prefer to do mods/upgrades that end up breaking the next weakest link... So having to add to or take away components of a water filtration system- as long as i have a good foundation- doesn't scare me...

Granted, that was before the wife and kids... I've never rebuilt a transmission though- but I can pretty much trouble shoot and fix most things... Granted YouTube makes everything seem easy to do...

Speaking of foundations, when we have teh tank out of the well house for cleaning- we'll need to replace the flooring under it- I was thinking of trying to find a shower stall pan with a built in drain to put under it and have it plumbed with PVC away from the well house- or is there something better- more well house specific people use?

I'm also leaning towards switching to copper for all plumbing in the well house- as everything looks close to end of life to me...

All the numbers were sticker shock to me... And, I can only dream of being able to drop $5k-$9k without blinking... So, the do-it-myself route is the way I have to go...

I can appreciate the knowledge and expertise people gain over decades- and understand that is why they get to charge so much- but that's too rich for my blood... Granted, I might not be able to get the "Bugatti" of filtration systems- but I'll be happy with the Honda/Acura version that is overbuilt and over engineered and does everything better than what the price reflects.

Thank you for responding! I look forward to more input after I get the lab results and share them here.
 

Kevin Wentworth

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Hi,

I'm curious about getting a whole house water filtration and softener system for our new to us house that is on a well.

It's our first time having a well and we don't know much about water filtration and softener systems- nor wells...

Here's some data about my water and system:

Existing pipe is 1 1/4 inch.
Here's what the well inspector said:
PH was 7,
Iron was 1MG/L,
Hardness was 4 GPG.

Raw Water Analysis said:
Iron: 1.97 Mg/l,
Manganese: 0.702 mg/l,
pH: 7.1,
Hardness: 5 GPG,
TDS: 146 mg/l,
Hydrogen Sulfide: 0.00 mg/l,
Ferrous Iron: .5
Ferric Iron: .5
Colloidal: 3PPM

And here' s the data from the well inspector about the well and equipment when we were doing the house inspection:

WELL TEST Results:

Source Description:
The source is a 6” drilled well that is to the right of the house behind the pump house.
The well stick up is about 6” above grade. A search of the department of ecology website was successful. According to the well log the well was drilled in 2000 to a completer depth of 150’ and has a static water level of 95’. There is a unique well tag on the well casing.
----------
Component Inventory & System Description
There is a 1 1/2-HP/230V/3WIRE/1PH submersible pump that is installed in the well on a pitless adapter, the well pump fills a 300-gallon storage tank.

There is a 1-HP/MultiStage Booster pump that pulls from the storage tank and fills a pressure tank. There is a 1 1/2-HP/230V/3WIRE control box with reset button.

There is a Water Worker 44-gallon pressure tank (Date code 2013), with companion pressure switch, pressure gauge, pressure relief and hose bib that are part of the pumping system.

Piping components are 1 1/4” PVC.
-----------
Component Assessment:
Pump System: 1 1/2-HP/230V/1-PH/3-Wire submersible pump.
• Motor Windings Resistance: R-Y: 8.4-Ω, B-Y: 2.1 SATISFACTORY
• Motor Conductor Insulation Resistance: ≥5M-Ω - SATISFACTORY
• Start Capacitor- SATISFACTORY
• Booster Pump Windings- SATISFACTORY
• Well Cap– SATISFACTORY
• Pressure switch– SATISFACTORY 40/60-PSI.
• Zero Withdrawal Pump Cycle Time: :17 Seconds UNSATISFACTORY a
short pump cycle is hard on the pump, this happens because the tank is
under-sized.
• Pressure gauge- SATISFACTORY
• Pressure tank- UNSATISFACTORY pressure tank is under-sized and
waterlogged and should be replaced. When you put a tire gauge on the
Schrader valve air seeps out of the tank.
• Electrical conditions: SATISFACTORY
Environmental Conditions/Sanitary Conditions:
• The well is on the right side of the house behind the pressure tank, sanitary
conditions around the well are SATISFACTORY. Pressure tank and its
components are in the pump house and are in SATISFACTORY sanitary
condition.
• There were no leaks visible on the system and there was no rodent activity
present.

Peak Demand Test:
Water was withdrawn from the system at a rate of 10 GPM. The water clear and there was no hydrogen sulfide odor present.

----------------------------
With that data, what would you recommend for a whole house filtration and softening system? I've been reading on here and I see most recommend going with a Fleck or Clack softener system.

So far, I've gotten three bids:

1.
Greensand Plus Filtration System--------------------------
1 ea.: NWT-1252-WS1-M-GSP Greensand plus filter system with the following features:
WS1 NSF rated high flow electronic meter initiated control valve, . includes 1” bypass valve.
Conditioner tank is NSF rated polyglass with a filter media capacity . of 2.0 cubic ft.
Electronic high flow metered control valve for efficient chlorine and . water usage, includes bypass valve.

Chemical Metering Pump------------------------------------------------
1 ea. Walchem EWN B11 VCURA metering pump and 15 gallon solution tank for injection of diluted chlorine (regular bleach/water solution).

Activated Carbon Filtration System-----------------------------------
1 ea.: NWT-1054-WS1-T-AC Activated carbon filter with the following features:
WS1 NSF rated high flow electronic timer initiated control valve, . . includes 1” bypass valve.
Conditioner tank is NSF rated polyglass with a filter media . . . capacity of 1.5 cubic ft.

Water Conditioning System
1 ea.: NWT-1054-WS1-M “Matrix” Water conditioning system for, hardness, iron, and manganese reduction, with the following features:
45,000 max grains Hardness removal capacity.
260# capacity brine tank (initial salt fill included).
Electronic high flow metered control valve for efficient salt . and water usage, includes bypass valve.

Total Installed Price (If Installed With Greensand System): $6490 plus tax

That's first one is the cheapest...

Then there's this one:
2.
FF7 Air 13 | Air Injection Metals System | 2 1 $2,312.00
FF3 Soft 12 | Ion Exchange System | 2 1 $2,289.00
MP1 Misc Plumbing- Pex/Brass 1 $1,250.00
ME1 Misc Electrical 1 $225.00
RL1 Service | Install Labor 5h @ 220.00per hour: $1,100.00

Total Installed Price: $7,176 Plus tax

And the most expensive one:
3.
Co-Ag Water system with backwashing fitler & 20ft/Mi2 $6795
Puretech Softner $1900
200lbs of salt included

Total Installed Price: $8695 Plus Tax

I had one other guy come out- but he still hasn't given me a bid in writing...

He said I should replace the pressure tank system and get a new controller system and basically start from scratch and it would be $10k- $16k

Like everyone, we want the best and healthiest water possible for a reasonable price.

I'm totally fine doing pex or pvc work- and could even learn to solder copper... Which ever is considered best...

We have four bathrooms and have 4 people (4yr old and a 1yr old) now and may have 6 people living with us in the near future (grandparents- as they are getting up there).

Please let me know your recommendations for what to buy and where to buy it from... I looked up the closest Fleck dealer and he's about 60 miles away and his website doesn't say he serves the Seattle area... And, I couldn't find a Clack dealer...

I'm sure I left a ton of needed info out- I tried to provided all I know...

Thank you!

SleeperinSeattle
You REALLY DONT NEED A GRREN SAND SYSTEM with those levels of iron and manganese. The concept behind the injection systems is oxidation followed by physical filtration. It makes sense to have all those tanks and different medias if you're choice is single tank electric units.

Please look up kinetico dual tank softeners, these things are beasts and you can get one installed with your setup for around 5k.
The dual tank, non electric design is specifically designed for your water chemistry with iron and manganese in lower levels.

As for the plumbing that might be wrong, I can't speak to it.

I have a couple years of experience with these systems vs single tank softeners on wells and they blow the electric systems out of the water.

A 2060 or s250xp, depending on your local dealers preference, and a 5 micron big blue 20 inch sediment pre-filter, would be all you needed.
these units have a compensated hardness of 66.
Compensated hardness is
Manganese x 5 + iron x 3 + hardness. Making your compensated hardness roughly 15 if you count manganese as 1ppm.

Please look at these before adding greensand or chlorine or extra tanks with extra maintenance. With your level of manganese id expect to change the pre-filter every 6 months, or every 3 if heavy water usage.
Filter cartridges are cheap.

THEN, and only then, if you're changing your sediment filter more often than you'd like... add a backwashing filter, again offered by kinetico as a 2060f od macrolite or 2100f od macrolite depending on water demands.

Another benefit to these units are they are non electric with a 10 year warranty.
 
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ditttohead

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Also the proprietary system designs will lock you into a single company for repairs and service. This can be ok if your local company is excellent. If not, then it can make things very difficult.
 

SleeperinSeattle

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Thank you all for your information! I'll look into Kinetico

I wanted to give everyone an update.

After looking closer at the water system- it will take a little more work to collect water to test before the 300 gallon storage tank. I'm hoping to add a temporary faucet between the well and and 300 gallon storage tank this weekend- which requires draining the 300 gallon tank- and if we are emptying it, might as well remove it and clean it with water and bleach- and while it's out, and while it's out, I'll fix the plywood floor.

I was thinking of getting a shower floor pan - like you have in your shower - and placing it under the the storage tank with a drain- this of course, would be on top of the new floor...

Or does any one have a better recommendation for a flooring/drain system? FYI condensation was enough to warp the wood under the storage tank over 20 years in an insulated and well house- in the pictures, you can see how ineffective the existing drain was and you can see how the plywood is totally warped and saturated under the tank.
 

SleeperinSeattle

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I'm sorry guys- I still haven't gotten to test the water- I thought I was ready- then opened the box from the testing place and it said we needed to freeze the ice pack and that we should test it early in the week to ship in the fastest time possible...

So, all we really did was take out the 300 gallon storage tank, cut out the water damaged floor beneath it:
IkvIJTW83et8tEoq5LH8ctQ3x_EN9iLVaOGjSWeRuB0ycX2az92PqXYlOSDW2N9h1KclhaJD9GJYHd7fr_zJA0Yjf7PPKjBOM0tueiSB7JvTicXJbEabUyMT_kGL18t--qY93h0IRsyKSBmvmzlxX47msiDRvF4KT8sFXHrFPdA3dlxAXQDYOK-f42358WdRNjMY3loHy1usAlDOaUncQQ2xesgcJqkKnFEpe2Y_z4VBVqVedzdsrYeKLNq6IYW3dv-rFj_MIarK-2DhDcS0M4v7AVZGw5NsV_B6Nd9fYzMbKcAytyqc59QLg04NocLJdtTPhn5sJ9e_nHh9QixReNi7tbucTIz6-WIfEyyC-xdI5xB7ktpsBujjJr9saJUYeecx0_nIDyCuHS5_MA9ARhZbNwRUKRWUTS1jSJLsbdIAdTmsgZdMItfSUhHCNFsB5y-rk5FRbmSEBPZPkBklKr2HIQ_Gw9pfxbw64848zOEFUy53KeDs_KcVz0-84lZ5TvKxb2JE5xVAusFG2u1KsPLGtIacru9GF6vVeDuo10eeYWPWWR-0IpdQEUeJVvHDJ80hJiy0f9EpOUX1xFuk0scEwb30I9CwD9s0fhAEpSlCVqJhAedsx-L-27wsKSyGdsOv1h37oms7LBuwUyL9QBwKIgBN7NcDGrbpN_a30CYZoEyZRG8asa0am2NH4A4=w889-h1185-no


Yes, my foot fell through the deteriorated floor- but no pics of that...

scrub down the tank- here's a before pic:
EOsO7clCHLItk9-EQGNStYJlvl77J-Dmo8MJsFrXSEysPctEmRAFepynJKgmqx9Y8UJhEswFLmuvxyJd_1MNRdDWJZGf_6WIJ6o6icPh11CzviMbFPyrilo9VKG1BcEoaqOweM13QDMMPxEMXzIj6G2aaQObaqAXhRSk0xEUaamMBMml01qxclhI8ZggcY5D8IJSiWGwFfhwcAUQXeuJJcsMHeaGtPyhOleHREs1C0be_BVRjQc40-sY_c89uEnX26HZAtl8_j4NpDJem2f5hrT7eXijBqBIOPsQYQFGOQ25EwC0enuBbXHoUt9NDzpy2Vb56JTc6FosBTEBczsHfiIyQK7fWIJYNXtbTD5S7uo00EQQ_WTXtmcGomzoP4dV9Bwr6wDUiNZZs_eErOETvagUz-pi1tXREXWLkjRYTpqFdCQJy3RaRn7yBqP0XauZWpQ8fbodS8ytImEv91DK5Qtr_F4yP4k6NoRBuzgJO3aRlNjrTeuKmR9LxD3hbtj_eUYQK_IsEUdv7XkOrUsTfGHnCkaDXB3v-Ol64nHoSzMTcRZ02ILafKWZCgFs63ZU49iQlY8OC_FIYCP6BWjC_12KkFuWsGR18frXV85Do_TyCi1kx1yleFRZudD-3EQ-KNsBZWPlmp5aJdrWKE7yc3z8hrWWbOnZe3XZzbf0echSS2db4uGJ1pyvu7tZ5i8=w1580-h1185-no



put down some temporary treated plywood,

FFCASY0hnQnDfI8cS8O7H1S_zM_-HmShNrGMeSgD3Rq0apszGl6Yh8dUcqIbPh2zBqdoh5tJKbPhgbLtBItURwpcP5Lq6LG2b3V2WUM9K5fY6j1uJpzBm8bzz5lUTypE7Ojt6xhajczeuYjugE2AOk2fOZSDjoqwGU0bzIfJLlY4RL6IIZTeB0do5Hg_AONSv7um9y0NyHrt58yPRsvvl0jKzX11gJvBPakskM1OZm7susgdtFOhjJEW3FL0Og3DVhZB6k67OizpZBOKYEslqvcE2zZ7yeIUG9ZV3Jt02-KP7deoUbS0edbexiwWrO3vnPsfpn-PYC4lCQZohkFnjPGh7C5EpoEpY8U27HC61SdsIBSZ0p9fATg61oP1sashsZ0kHB8NlSb62fopgHuJXuuDkALBl_oWdo8AHCXnmES4YDcaSNn2Rm_Ro7qfK2ozq6QjzmMb4pqfAlUAbpArdY4MMOvQTd-0UxPOY1ouUrgzdDv4zlqgcZ6wpcF4ZO8ZokCraxqIALPUqR9YHBCgrNcZ4ecM1xy1FxzFLsT6zz2ldKND3C3EOezQdwsedxVvUiaWDyfw4zZAPuoPFwa36nZTZQhfTHChTpY7Rvn7k75yU6GkbQhSjpSj8i38TWHsmpUtdMRrXoQNFwVu8oKo4LSGmby0IiBVQJm43X1pI4dmuEVuwtfxAXeQa9dwMy8=w1580-h1185-no


and thought we could just run the well on the booster pump...

That didn't work....

So no water all day Saturday and Sunday...

On Sunday, we re-installed the tank- with modifications to the plumbing so we can take it out easily this coming weekend.

Here's what it looked like when we got it put back together and the water flowing- at 11:30pm Sunday night:

uNvOKsMQUhG1RO_3mrMt2PCSqc0AI4hF10BlvCwY81nzm8x68G5Be0U4imttuC6D5PGSMm2_ywiNgZ_ArphBtDTVkPV7u1fmUy8GmN74s4peh-dAAQnPLH-jrArU24HQgGk0hwoDjn6SKEfVWdCEQBezGEAEM1_LRYpoPPOsCq3uFLctAp3NZdzqOLcl1OSgJ3WgdGyt0r8EhAaaORSqXrcAZgsyPtQEcaLhGBta9QLcAGTivhBylWUMtuQAUFi-UNogpVJkF56v3XZaGLdoBfbc9HEGfzeGY2JBFIRa0Zo391QC0v5aQlxz0x-qIM7utyhyZSvjyyPunY3OqPsqyhigt8qbglcgcqaNcdJIZKWST890V985IsCYdJVejKgbYq2XBqTYUaXSw8tjzDiEqrMohmbnUq_XFuklV8uZ8c9Z-OlmpcNEAt7hASrezVrXQxMmnuA-Mis7G7cwwt7sMNRf4kMfOMqWW4ZGo7bHNW0mgMw0jjq2w3teiJ7RB1k2BwgUFIjalxqai4AzSZnctMDT37xIe4I1qjCM1hqMLkfLnv5CHHYqBQ2bq-Nix4jutYeFlEKdDp_FJIO8yKKePaNjz7ANSlqv8qjxIqUg0owPTLMo-Yxt8nFRpj_ERtVyMTLmM75TJvr8EdAEQWu4Lz46NUgtagLFc1vWF_I5x-NfYNoWfk5mj8JLSNfXGcI=w1580-h1185-no


We ended up spending almost three hours going to two different home depots trying to find the right PVC connector parts.

I wasn't able to get any of the existing metal pipes to separate- I didn't want to use pb blaster to try to loosen the parts out of fear of getting it in the water- any recommendations?

The goal is to have the water enter into the top of the tank (instead of that spot right in front on the bottom- as that's the way all the well guys said it should be) and have the new floor all set up with the shower floor pan and drain.

I was thinking because the 300 gallon tank sweats a ton, that it is probably wise to have it elevated (maybe on pressure treated 2x6?) so water can drop down and run down to the new drain efficiently...

The holding tank wasn't full of mold/algae and growth like we thought- so it wasn't as disgusting as we thought... But, the water was literally brown- and whats worse is the water seems WAY worse/dirtier in the house now. So my wife asked if I could put in some cheap sediment filter to see if that would improve things- she found a whole bunch on amazon for less than $100... But they are all 3/4 or 1 inch connections and we have 1 1/4 piping throughout...

It would be really easy to add something this weekend to make a slight improvement while we wait for the well test to get back and to figure out what we ultimately need to filter for...

Any input on a 1 1/4 inch sediment filter would be appreciated! I was thinking maybe I could get a T fitting and split the water from the well into two of those sediment filters and then re-route them back into one 1 1/4 pipe. I could totally be off my rocker though...
 

SleeperinSeattle

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Awesome, thank you so much for putting the diagram together to show me how it would fit in my system.

I'll watch the video after work today to get a better understanding of how it works.

I saw on your website a picture of it being installed between floor joists/ceiling- That would free up a lot of space for the filtration system... Is that part of the installation kit- or an option?

Thank you, again!
 

SleeperinSeattle

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Another weekend, and still not complete...

I installed the Cycle Stop Valve (thank you, Cary):

N4dZljqK2N4hckaoXBPynnPygFx48BiDuqbfml1cCE0mBgrOJiVRKH_PmJ5ne78AN_TBe3_qAb8ZRptHF_J8CZbQn2rOHukJBRo9jFmIJCxaSyKiNGH-pqmZS-6T01E_xAV0z3t4aQJAKCShN1V2aK1z4RemDmD9fFXjNn4tuJ3VGXnthJhFuZngKfJMHmQKqeQ3OdAobqWxP0aDGu6RhezvXmuCaAiKB_c0Vr4zSfTjLeHFlcvfPy-TcOi9OHT4J3oH-cprzId6Z24f3hu_anU92g5FIMJIJOvOF_oO4BbAOIQjUzy9XiiYDjQP3Jj_nwrae8UY9NWscty5wzulgTb98EwR8nz3qu888lamYX9bRLCwMoHSBmymEqEP4ES9xXewhpTNBy2ss5io0TdwkAE3ucVA0U6dILFFCNVRNf4bBJuFuuubFKK7EtImw3EyuQcPQbHRAXqLaGeUUKxVTJreXw6PglJE5_AdVh0gyYMSl6tnNtB6RVygQWx5-oCnX1sT0R850sxeO-m7nI_Qp1aFA-VY9LGC6B7-V-9tVZHKH1fcqwdWXf_5gNiiTGAuCMGZ7xJy3zsoG2SCgKpbO-vo8tJUz_MBtHPbcMt9ev0l7N3NXujJvbO5zHzRYNqVtrzCFxgF5XVJD4DAhmegOqWQvuItjfnbjFg77UdoiBRbMLmXPQWL81fMavXlqRc=w1612-h1209-no


I couldn't get the old metal piping apart from the old check-valve, so I had to make a trip to Home Depot to get a new check-valve. I called Cary and he said he prefers to put the check-valve in front of the CSV- so i'll see f I can easily switch that...

Then, because our water is so brown, I wanted to add some sediment filters:

IAwhxoDGqS4a7j2K_pxy8VsYxOL0T22tdHilguHu92cGeXMT9ovfTmmnph0CL4fAf9XN-5Q_gldPw0Lmd6xvVt0r2b8fnYG7gCtPjTp7EM8qoA9VdsrpYbZiifM0PyEuSJIFwKAm28jSfCt3nQLSmLtJs6jV-HZN0BapDZu8OCYpauq9Xqq2XqFDOrVlcMfWAke9i0J8d0-v9GcgOB-RLDheUSmq8CoS3EMR0F2MIR9IcZ9FWYRkNwE8lWwbmPpy4PgR5F3M-nNCzKgaBAc9pTRcFuycb7Zs2euLL5Cn65BV1j5G5lMeQnhaDzc0V8Knz8av-bgG7pZ0BRo_wwcUP-BPhGw4Eqw-HUoIXqPAxzfP50Pu2uX0qLfLuRfJt2PBmIpwG6x5M2BDrc8d7ULsG82m8JhpozdIU9IAU4ZQ7f41k4NYjyRX9MnwbO8ItKNiedckTv_0XkM7a11cbLEhlvMRYgFaG9PbygD8UvbO4LukZZ_Hg6Ibfw70Y9gQVKDCGFOmGqTf7EsjX9AgL0LgoqHeJna5TSVaknrxueGIhT23KFE_IxHvROtBSaN77STdKog-eA-X1sbcGmCCnOBJDThGtXT-qe9VXRDLmSBibcFqtme1nGymnbaigAUY97nlr1p_0XzWDHlyJ_kWpxRmdHz2voweG2dvHj1vwihIqcks1pksApBnZZx2vO4wx9U=w1612-h1209-no


I may be wrong here, but I felt, because we have 1 1/4 pipes for my whole system, and I could only find these sediment filters in a max of 1 inch piping, that I didn't want to restrict water flow through that reduction down to 1 inch pipes...

I thought I could T off to 2 separate sets of 1 inch filters including a prefilter of 25 microns followed by a 5 micron filter in the second housing- then rejoin those two filters back into a 1 1/4 T and then into the holding tank.


1n_UEwYvqhutMxBFA2s_lM09HW5aAcFCnPS4_OqE__9AYLS7pxLW-VP0acBokD-xSr_Tcg65u_xPx-s336tcKKRhFfJhRO9OEFj44AgzrR44SDz24LtqyVMTm7fylJzVObuTMXp23AuxuLdeKYW6yqvhFZFJoPNq5VTMZNAlPha9lL7FO_zKugsZnHB2wd5E9eqA8UQXvu9WYkbGsI9ifRgWb_FqmGXE_L8maUK6Umh4_2ULQ5K_I2DNhhvqszkpIDM0MoGLkUT5g5yPqCzqi5ePx9u6_yIItRa80paamQl0AUWO6eHS7_0d5QXGbailXrdOCVM9Ioq2AV7PALIRTQKIbPUkJ9Zepdf_Sej97xX19quYM6VPzBgaBiEQQicJLDTpmzX7_ZR5HYivqDsClPTLe42uSiytySrNzrLiz2spD4g4VPB8lM4q5QvxrDYtfxfHxOYYiHlrJo-Y7R542ftBEkp-VUyW19Lt-ROixveS3uluQnZkgirKdpTrrMFNXDvVnLk0qbyZCJIQTMqz9IICRTrYZKF3X5SfZld68ndqJ8VCh1UjeEcBW0GpHAjGavRF_fToSxuHtDBGbk1vvHHGB69QSwNrWRRVoQB-KtVi9tHfryZ8_p12x_aPbyDAE2mt7p4BzG9uK0tIjWeIlDUAnucPXYZe1I1sRRkiSS0XEz3l253M1kHEz3s2ccc=w1612-h1209-no



TO make things more difficult- we ended up having go to 3 different lowes and buy 6 of these kits to equal 4 kits as parts were missing from all the kits- and even then we still only got 16 bolts (4 in each kit) and we need 32 (8 in each kit) for mounting...

It took forever to fit and glue 50% of these pipes together- so I'm about to go try to finish it up tonight... We haven't had water since Saturday morning...
Here's how I left it last night at midnight:

ie5U-mEccDbjAWHM4Tct6KDZAvf6Tr1pGHgF1c_6sVDgojvkmBxOtc3mcOMUMampInsrK07bbOwI9Ataf9h5IJqbRaxg1VP_er1YnJMMXqy4LOn4mqeHyEYxHh7n4PIgwpM-n0hk7lx5tJvA6kopGMrFKCn1zGIpR4yw_OnIbUMIVU_PqDHM6bAeNyxjJPIxoSb07bX4KZokJ2huW0b45xyfTldXIEAfv6MxjLOiEsgZYU4SfRjkXMwyeDB3mljiWXt9ziNiq7nDuzLStvYKi0mi4_MwegnoP93cqG0m5-TsLqjJHGc_UfaN-XteoNknQPoG0Tu2zDG5VeACE7ewJn-ryWGqYUzvGlbBTNF_6hJXXMNSUXr2fhprWNZS3feic7O6ArRVlczt7jAMWIYVH8tic84yFervoUgRCzFnzAbeaV4sjs9Qxq41AhYXgH36pKrj3soW4TLkkodm-KygTyqJuwdOQ3ZLKUts4cKrqWiyi2E6IGkzR7s4dmn9cuWPwJijTALVYufBJAFxhOXTM_Nsgpu35c18BW5YbP0xDeuICb9r92biybYoLlYylW6x5wbTaKX1eYzt9etIqIJhuk0_ByDdUgzrIupoR01kNCWBk3WJv6Jl6C79VvJ3f-NEk-LlCeQMp4n3n8sp_EkTpDZzsmavUJFHy5_2xU5ovVu0BHoTuTAOvZbcHbNMdUE=w1612-h1209-no


Wish me luck!

I hope to collect a water sample and send it off this week.
 

SleeperinSeattle

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Well...

Life happens...

Just sent off the water samples- should hear back in about two weeks.

I'll update the post as soon as I get the test results back.
 

Brody Reb

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Following. Info for whole house water filtration is lacking. Any websites seem to be affiliated sponsorships etc so resorting to forums. Keep us posted!
 

SleeperinSeattle

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Following. Info for whole house water filtration is lacking. Any websites seem to be affiliated sponsorships etc so resorting to forums. Keep us posted!
Will do!

It seems like this forum has a lot of helpful people in the biz from all over the country- but what I've learned (and makes sense) is you have to get a water test before any one can really make any real and holistic recommendation. My first recommendation is get a Lab water test then post the results here...

It's true a lot of places only recommend what are affiliated with... And don't know much beyond that... I also noticed that the guys who dig and repair wells often have a better understanding of everything...

I had several well guys come out and the recommendations were all varied and prices were all over the place. One of the sales guys seemed more like a showman and went through his script very well... But, didn't know anything else about water/wells...

I'll post the lab results as soon as I get them! Looking forward to recommendations from the experts on this board after that!
 
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Reach4

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It seems like this forum has a lot of helpful people in the biz from all over the country- but what I've learned (and makes sense) is you have to get a water test before any one can really make any real and holistic recommendation. My first recommendation is get a Lab water test then post the results here...
Everybody suggests feeding the RO with soft water. I am not sure where they draw the line on that.
 

ditttohead

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RO's reject sodium, chloride, calcium, magnesium with ease... sodium has a very low membrane scaling potential. Calcium and magnesium have a high scaling potential. RO's work great with softened water and the membranes tend to last much longer with soft vs. hard water.
 

Water Guy

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only read most of your original post, but if iron and manganese combined total is below 2ppm, consider a katalox filter with an ozone(regenerate every 2 days) generator followed by a softener. as to the rest try to shorten it up a bit as to what else exactly you looking to replace
 
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