Ten years old - what tests should I run on well/softener?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by Kentuckienne, May 15, 2018.

  1. Kentuckienne

    Kentuckienne New Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2018
    Location:
    Midwest
    First, a big thanks to the Forum for years of good advice. Sorry for long post. About ten years ago, we drilled a deep well for our new house (80+ grains hardness, some coliform bacteria but no e-coli). We put in a water softener (Clack) that puts regen water into the septic system, with a RO unit for drinking/ice maker water. After getting lots of flammable gas out of the faucets we installed a powered anode in the water heater. After getting gradual buildup of red slime in toilet tanks, added a second tank after the softener to hold reservoir of pump metered volumes of bleach and water. This causes some small amount of reddish precipitate in that tank, and no more stink or slime elsewhere. The system has been working pretty well. It's just two of us so we don't use too much water. (I say we, but I'm not the main we, just the main question asker.)

    Need to install new kitchen faucet and still having some issues with white buildup on faucets and corrosion of the metal. So probably it's a good time to do some testing again, yes?

    I'm guessing water hardness, bacteria, iron/metals....is there something else we should test while we're at it?

    How long do powered anodes last, and how can we check it?

    Should we divert the regen water from the septic system, or if it hasn't caused trouble in ten years is it ok?

    House is plumbed with pex and copper, and we suspect one incorrect metal fitting where the line enters the house. Should we be worried about that?

    What's causing the corrosion to the finishes on the faucets, and is there a way to stop it? But I bet it's caused by the salt in the softened water, so is there a faucet that resists this? I've seen salt water faucets for boat sinks - might that be an option?

    I'm also guessing that the softener resin might be losing it ... Is there a way to test it?

    Be happy to provide details on the chlorine unit or any other stuff if people are interested. It's not something I've seen much elsewhere, and it works really well for the minor stinky/red slime problem.
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    For real? That is an uncommon symptom. How do you know that you got flammable gas? Did you ignite it? If that is the case, I would think you would want some kind of gas removal system.

    I would get an Hach 5B hardness test. For iron, I am not sure what testing I would do. I am not so quick to recommend periodic $200 tests, but I see the point for those who do. If you don't have even 10-year-old lab test results, go for it. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/recommended-water-testing-lab.75253/ has some recent discussion. I do think that measuring pH is needed. That can be done at home.

    I recommend that you sanitize your well and plumbing. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my writeup for 4 inch and bigger drilled wells.


    It is indefinite. It has electronics, so it could last decades, or it could fail in a couple of years. Mine has an LED which glows green if things are working. It also has metering testpoints, which I know how to use, but most people would never use the testpoints.
     
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  4. Kentuckienne

    Kentuckienne New Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2018
    Location:
    Midwest
    Caught some gas from the kitchen faucet in a balloon and ignited it. Fire! Turned out the original anode was getting destroyed in a hurry, hence the powered replacement. Ours has the LED too, but I didn't know about the metering test points ...will look that up.

    Thanks for the links ... The well hasn't been sanitized since the initial time in 2008. The casing is quite large at the top - 10" - going down to 8, 6, and 4. The driller hit several caves/voids and was using the kind of rig that needed the casing to go through them. Had to go almost 400 feet as I recall.
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    I think I would be looking for something to vent the gas outside. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....system-after-air-injection-iron-filter.74384/ shows something somebody made to remove air. I am thinking in your case, maybe make something taller, and figure out a way to get the gas to vent outside.

    Some search terms you might look for a search engine search are "air volume control" or AVC.

    Actually, with methane like that, maybe you should get a fancier test that also tests for various hydrocarbons.
     
  6. Kentuckienne

    Kentuckienne New Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2018
    Location:
    Midwest
    Once we installed the powered anode, the gas went away. It was being generated by the anode being rapidly consumed, I guess. Hasn't been a problem since we changed it out.
     
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Wild! Magnesium in acid will generate hydrogen. I am shocked to hear that happened fast enough to generate significant gas at the faucet.

    I think you should get some pH paper. I like Hydrion (O67) Urine & Saliva pH Paper (5.5-8.0 pH).
    I got it mainly for checking that I had added enough vinegar for sanitizing with chlorine bleach. Any good lab water test will also check pH.
     
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