Tape or Dope on Old Propane Stove Connection

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Penelope

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Hi all,
I'm new to this forum but have been visiting for quite a while.
Here's my first question:

I have an old propane stove and would like some advice on connecting it. The line to connect the stove sits horizontally UNDER the burners, about 10" from the back of the stove, and it is 3/4" threaded black pipe. The stove originally had half of a union fitting at this point, which I have since removed. I'm a little concerned about which thread sealant (yellow ptfe tape or Rectorseal 5, for example) I should use here. It seems like the pipe (and the sealant) would be exposed to some heat... how much heat I'm not sure, but these old stoves can get pretty hot, and this is quite near the burners and right above the oven. Also, should I put a union back in, or would you just use a threaded coupling? I of course have a shutoff valve and flexible line that will lead up to this rigid extension.

Thoughts? And I have worked with gas before and all will be inspected, so please please please do not give me the old "gas is dangerous call a pro" speech. Thanks and I look forward to forum-ing with you all!
 

Penelope

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photo-2.jpg

Thought an image might inspire someone...
 

Reach4

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If that is a tapered thread, either of those will do a good job.
 

Penelope

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Hmmm... I have some USA made PTFE tape rated to 550 degrees; Rectorseal 5 is only good to 400.

I thought about using a high-temperature thread sealant from someone like Permatex, but I've never used anything like this for gas lines.
 

MACPLUMB

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Me I put on the tape and then follow with a "light" coating of your pipe dope then screw your adapter fitting on for the flex "do not" use anything on the flared flex connection it will seal itself
 

Penelope

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Me I put on the tape and then follow with a "light" coating of your pipe dope then screw your adapter fitting on for the flex "do not" use anything on the flared flex connection it will seal itself

So you guys actually have a flex line running underneath the burners like this? Seems like this is pretty sketchy compared to the durability of 3/4" black pipe.
I think I'll make a leg with two ~10" pieces of pipe and a 90, attach this to the connection you see in the picture and then use my flex line to connect the stove in the rear.
 

hj

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quote; So you guys actually have a flex line running underneath the burners like this

There are many ways to do it, yours being one of them, so do it however you wish, however, I, and most plumbers, have been doing it like this for DECADES. It is also why the manufacturer stops the steel pipe at that location.
 

Penelope

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quote; So you guys actually have a flex line running underneath the burners like this

There are many ways to do it, yours being one of them, so do it however you wish, however, I, and most plumbers, have been doing it like this for DECADES. It is also why the manufacturer stops the steel pipe at that location.

No offense intended, just surprised is all. I don't have an exploded drawing of this stove so am a little unsure what the manufacturer intended... it could have been modified in the past 70 years. Not to mention that those cute yellow lines (some kind of plastic coating, no?) weren't around back when this thing rolled, or fell, off the assembly line. In any case, thanks for your replies and I appreciate the advice.

Penelope
 

Plumber69

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So you guys actually have a flex line running underneath the burners like this? Seems like this is pretty sketchy compared to the durability of 3/4" black pipe.
I think I'll make a leg with two ~10" pieces of pipe and a 90, attach this to the connection you see in the picture and then use my flex line to connect the stove in the rear.

I agree, you cant connect a flex right to the connection. 90 down first. Flex lines like a nice even U shape when used. I seem to think you need a regulator on this to. I would hard pipe the reg on the unit
 

hj

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quote; it could have been modified in the past 70 years.

VERY unlikely, since it was a common feature for decades. And you CAN "connect the flex right to the connection", if you want to. 70 years ago the "cute yellow lines" were aluminum.
 

Penelope

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If you have it inspected I doubt the inspector will pass the stove itself.

Why would an inspector not pass a stove if it's connected and vented properly? Almost everyone in my area has an old stove like this because there's no natural gas and no serious cook would ever consider electric. Plus the vintage stoves are correct for the period of the older homes that were once country houses for SF residents.
 

Penelope

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quote; it could have been modified in the past 70 years.

VERY unlikely, since it was a common feature for decades. And you CAN "connect the flex right to the connection", if you want to. 70 years ago the "cute yellow lines" were aluminum.

Well I suspect that under extreme cooking conditions the plastic coating could get hot and melt off. Which would be a nasty mess. I'm sure I "CAN" connect a flex line as-is, and I'm sure it would "work" just fine, probably for a pretty long time, but this doesn't necessarily mean it's the best idea. I think we can all agree on this, right?

I've never been interested in getting by doing only what one "can" do, the minimum allowed, or what is commonly referred to as "standard practice". These notions of completion tend to be fairly low in the hierarchy of workmanship and longevity, performance, etc.. Unfortunately there is no inspector or code book to monitor workmanship or really anything that goes beyond the minimum allowable. We must think to ourselves. "how can I do this better?" We have to hold ourselves to higher standards, or rest comfortable doing the bare minimum only to move onto the next mediocre project dictated by the savings of a few pennies at the expense of integrity and craftsmanship. Look around and you'll see it not only with stove connections.
 

Tom Sawyer

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Why would an inspector not pass a stove if it's connected and vented properly? Almost everyone in my area has an old stove like this because there's no natural gas and no serious cook would ever consider electric. Plus the vintage stoves are correct for the period of the older homes that were once country houses for SF residents.

Because it does not meet current codes or standards. It can be converted to meet them though.
 

Penelope

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Because it does not meet current codes or standards. It can be converted to meet them though.

It has a new thermocouple and regulator, but I would be interested to know what an old stove might not meet, in terms of code. My understanding is that if there is an appliance in place, it's sort of grandfathered in, so to speak. This is not new construction, and the stove has always been here... or is that just my story?
 
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