I little while ago, somebody posted that when you used the inside threads on a tank tee, you risked splitting the thread. The suggestion was to use the outside threads, which was stronger. I was intending to refer to that, but I could not find the post.
Later I got to looking for more info on this. I found https://www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/boshart_industries_inc_bii/docs/biitankteeinfo.pdf
The points they make are that stainless tank tees are more resistant to that problem than bronze or brass, and that one of their bronze offerings had both outside 1 inch MIP thread, and they have brass tank tee inside a 3/4 copper sweat fitting. This would eliminate an adapter for people running copper, and would not be subject to splitting. I don't find that tank tee offered for sale, but I could have easily missed that.
My thought was that they should offer that in 1-1/4 outside, and 1 inch copper sweat inside. That would be useful, not only for copper pipe, but for accepting 1 inch PEX including F1960 sweat adapters.
https://blog.boshart.com/why-not-all-tank-tees-are-created-equal has more info about stainless being stronger.
Later I got to looking for more info on this. I found https://www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/boshart_industries_inc_bii/docs/biitankteeinfo.pdf
The points they make are that stainless tank tees are more resistant to that problem than bronze or brass, and that one of their bronze offerings had both outside 1 inch MIP thread, and they have brass tank tee inside a 3/4 copper sweat fitting. This would eliminate an adapter for people running copper, and would not be subject to splitting. I don't find that tank tee offered for sale, but I could have easily missed that.
My thought was that they should offer that in 1-1/4 outside, and 1 inch copper sweat inside. That would be useful, not only for copper pipe, but for accepting 1 inch PEX including F1960 sweat adapters.
https://blog.boshart.com/why-not-all-tank-tees-are-created-equal has more info about stainless being stronger.
