System won't hold pressure

[Brettrice550]

I recently had a new submersible pump, switch, water heater, and plumbing lines installed in my house. I am using the same pressure tank from the previous owner. When the pump is on, I instantly reach 20 psi. When the pump is off, the pressure goes to 0. I never achieve the 40-60 psi for the switch to work. I have run the system for 10-15 minutes at a time with no faucets open and all faucets open. I am not sure what the issue is. Advice?

 

[Reach4]

Could be various things. Could be a hole in the down pipe or some other place (such as underground) where you cannot see the water pouring out. Louisville? You probably don't have a pitless, so you would have a hard time looking down the well.

When the pump is on, how high does the pressure rise in 20 seconds?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Brettrice550]

When the pump is on, how high does the pressure rise in 20 seconds?

20 psi is the max I get and achieve that in less than 5 seconds.

 

[Reach4]

Don't be offended, but your pump is down the well, right? The reason I ask is that there is a thing where above-ground jet pumps may top out at 20 psi.

 

[Brettrice550]

Don't be offended, but your pump is down the well, right? The reason I ask is that there is a thing where above-ground jet pumps may top out at 20 psi.

The old system was an above ground jet pump. The new system is a submersible, down the well, pump

 

[Reach4]

From a diagnosis point of view, you could reduce the air precharge of the pressure tank to zero. What I think that could do is based on the pressure tank size and how quickly the pressure falls from 20, you could estimate the gpm of the leak. I am not a pro.

Did you have somebody put the pump in? Was the pump installation tested then? It sounds like some troubleshooting is in order.

 

[Brettrice550]

From a diagnosis point of view, you could reduce the air precharge of the pressure tank to zero. What I think that could do is based on the pressure tank size and how quickly the pressure falls from 20, you could estimate the gpm of the leak. I am not a pro.

Did you have somebody put the pump in? Was the pump installation tested then? It sounds like some troubleshooting is in order.

Yes I had someone install the pump first, then the plumbing to the pressure tank/switch, then the electric.

I tried to fill up the pressure tank with an electric air pump through the nozzle on top. The pressure in the tank stayed at 20 psi as well.

 

[Valveman]

Got to have a hole in tje pipe somewhere.

 

[LLigetfa]

I tried to fill up the pressure tank with an electric air pump through the nozzle on top. The pressure in the tank stayed at 20 psi as well.

Where are you reading the tank pressure, at the schrader valve? What happens to the water pressure gauge as you add air?

 

[Brettrice550]

Where are you reading the tank pressure, at the schrader valve? What happens to the water pressure gauge as you add air?

Reading tank pressure through the electric air pump. I haven't tried adding air while the pump is on.

 

[Reach4]

OK. hole in pipe is probable. How about a photo of the well head? That is your next troubleshooting point, I think.

 

[Brettrice550]

OK. hole in pipe is probable. How about a photo of the well head? That is your next troubleshooting point, I think.

 

[Reach4]

Looks like there is water right there. If you watch that area while somebody turns the pump on, you may see the leak.

Tell us about the well? You should get that well casing extended above ground, maybe a foot, to prevent contamination.

For troubleshooting, I would look to break the line at the union, and connect the line from the pump to a pressure gauge. Power the pump for 2 seconds. If that pressure goes up to 60 or 120, you know the hole is not before the union.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah not safe. Casing should be extended 12"-18" above grade. Gonna be hard to find a leak when everything is wet like that.