BS
Member
I'm getting ready to install Swanstone bathtub wall panels and have a few questions for those who have experience with these.
I've removed the original fiberglas surround and left the 21" of drywall that was above it to the ceiling. I'll be installing new drywall over the exposed studs so that all three walls will be completed sheathed in drywall. I do not intend to tape the joints between the old and new drywall because the Swanstone panels (which will be glued to the drywall) will cover these joints. I'll keep the bottom edge of the drywall about 1/4" above the top of the tub's installation flange. The instructions say nothing about a vapor barrier so I don't think I need to install one. Or do I?
All of the studs in the bathtub alcove are perfectly plumb (in this house, that's amazing), although one or two stick out a little bit. I could shave them down but I'm concerned that doing so will cause the joints between the old and new drywall not to be flush, affecting the contact surface between the drywall and Swanstone panels. If I were to leave the studs as they are, will the panels conform to the slight curvature in the drywall and remain adhered? Or does the wall have to be perfectly flat?
Should the panels rest on the tub or be suspended slightly above it (say 1/8") as with a tiled wall? Given the weight of these panels, it seems they should rest on the tub, but the instructions say nothing about this. (The tub is Swanstone Veritek.)
Finally, do the wall corners have to be perfectly square (90 deg.) or can the corner molding and trim tolerate slight variation?
Comments (+ or -) about any of this would be most appreciated. Thanks.
- Bernie
I've removed the original fiberglas surround and left the 21" of drywall that was above it to the ceiling. I'll be installing new drywall over the exposed studs so that all three walls will be completed sheathed in drywall. I do not intend to tape the joints between the old and new drywall because the Swanstone panels (which will be glued to the drywall) will cover these joints. I'll keep the bottom edge of the drywall about 1/4" above the top of the tub's installation flange. The instructions say nothing about a vapor barrier so I don't think I need to install one. Or do I?
All of the studs in the bathtub alcove are perfectly plumb (in this house, that's amazing), although one or two stick out a little bit. I could shave them down but I'm concerned that doing so will cause the joints between the old and new drywall not to be flush, affecting the contact surface between the drywall and Swanstone panels. If I were to leave the studs as they are, will the panels conform to the slight curvature in the drywall and remain adhered? Or does the wall have to be perfectly flat?
Should the panels rest on the tub or be suspended slightly above it (say 1/8") as with a tiled wall? Given the weight of these panels, it seems they should rest on the tub, but the instructions say nothing about this. (The tub is Swanstone Veritek.)
Finally, do the wall corners have to be perfectly square (90 deg.) or can the corner molding and trim tolerate slight variation?
Comments (+ or -) about any of this would be most appreciated. Thanks.
- Bernie