Supply valve distance from wall/escutcheon?

[beeckstein]

We're just finishing up a big remodel, so I'm getting ready to install all (27!) supply valves. I was wondering how much space should be left between the valve and the escutcheon? All of the valves are 1/2" compression on copper rough. Is it typical to leave enough length for a "do over" if the copper gets damaged, or do you try and snug the valve up close for a better look?

Thanks in advance!
Bruce

 

[Cacher_Chick]

The is no right answer except not to cut the pipe off too short. If you need to change a valve later, use a puller to remove the compression ring and install a new valve. A good fixture supply valve should not need to be replaced again in our lifetime.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

If you need to change a valve later, use a puller to remove the compression ring and install a new valve.

I've made the mistake before of not leaving enough extra to cut off the old angle stop and also made the mistake over-tightening the compression ring to the point it could not easily be pulled off. I could just barely expose the compression ring enough to get at it with a file to weaken it to the point it could be pulled off. Not fun.

 

[WorthFlorida]

...and also made the mistake over-tightening the compression ring to the point it could not easily be pulled off. I could just barely expose the compression ring enough to get at it with a file to weaken it to the point it could be pulled off....

A compression ring once used can never come off. It does compress into the copper and both the pipe and ring deform. If the fitting doesn't leak then it is tight enough. Over tightening may crack the compression nut then it will leak but it'd be very difficult to do.

 

[hj]

Unless the ring was tightened to the point where it deformed the copper, then it WILL come off with a compression ring puller. But, if it that tight a new ring will not work anyway so you will have to cut enough off so the new ring attaches to "good' copper.

 

[LLigetfa]

I did not mean to derail this thread to discuss compression rings. It was only meant as a warning not to cut the pipe too short. On one of the two angle stops I was changing, I has cut it way too short. So short in fact there was no room to get a puller behind it and not enough room to slide the nut back to get at the ring with a file. I got lucky and could reuse the old nut and ring on the new angle stop. I (hopefully) won't make that mistake again.

 

[Reach4]

So short in fact there was no room to get a puller behind it and not enough room to slide the nut back to get at the ring with a file.

Some ferrule pullers thread onto the existing nut instead of having jaws that slip behind the nut.

 

[beeckstein]

Thanks all for the quick responses. I guess I'll keep them on the shortish side and just be careful to not over tighten them. I'll just do one room at a time and use Brasscraft's recommendation of 3/4 of a turn past finger tight. Then if there's a leak, I won't have to run all over the house checking for leaks. A bit of a pain since, I'll have to drain the system a bunch of times, and a lot of the plumbing is in the attic.

 

[LLigetfa]

Some ferrule pullers thread onto the existing nut instead of having jaws that slip behind the nut.

Shows just how little I know. Googling it now I see many examples of pullers either threaded into the nut or grabbing behind it. I figured the angled seat of the nut would compress the ring making it harder to pull off.

In my googling, I found a much better tool that actually splits the ring rather than slides it off.

 

[Terry]

Under the lavs and sinks, you might as well give yourself some room for the next time. I used to cut them tight for looks, but since I've replaced so many stops while replacing faucets and toilets, I now realize that many stops are not forever things.

 

[FullySprinklered]

The white lab coat was a nice touch.