Supply lines to freestanding tub

[Hiluxsurf]

Hey - PEX newbie so forgive the dumb questions.

Existing tub has 1/2 copper teed off a main 3/4 copper supply line.

Thinking I will use Sharkbite 1/2 - 3/4 elbow to go from a 1/2 copper to 3/4 PEX (too chickenS=-t to learn solder for this one job)

Think the ID of the 3/4 PEX more similar to the 1/2 copper - trusting that the smaller ID of the Sharkbite fitting won't cause any issues.

Does that sound like the right approach?

And does it make any difference to performance whether I use a fitting vs simply bend the pipe (with appropriate bracket) for the 90 when it comes up through the sub floor?

Thanks in advance
Chris

 

[Reach4]

Think the ID of the 3/4 PEX more similar to the 1/2 copper - trusting that the smaller ID of the Sharkbite fitting won't cause any issues.

Should be fine.

And does it make any difference to performance whether I use a fitting vs simply bend the pipe (with appropriate bracket) for the 90 when it comes up through the sub floor?

Performance would be very close. Not noticeable.

Usually on a freestanding tub, appearance is an important factor. Are you proposing using Sharkbites or PEX bends above the finished floor??

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Hiluxsurf]

Thank you for the info...

The freestanding tub has a removable panel on the outer wall - so there is space to access plumbing between the outer and innerwall (the faucets will be fitted on to a tap deck in the tub - once I've drilled the holes in the deck) - so I was thinking the PEX would come up through the floor into that space between outer and inner wall of the tub (through a small cut out in the subfloor hidden under the tub)

Then I'd have a shut off at the end of the PEX connecting to the braided faucet lines - which could be accessed via that panel.

(The tub is in a recess and the panel faces the wall, not the main bathroom, so it won't be visible)

Does that sound like a sensible approach?

Should be fine.

Performance would be very close. Not noticeable.

Usually on a freestanding tub, appearance is an important factor. Are you proposing using Sharkbites or PEX bends above the finished floor??

 

[Reach4]

Then I'd have a shut off at the end of the PEX connecting to the braided faucet lines - which could be accessed via that panel.

A braided supply line has a braid over a plastic or rubber tube. Some are durable, and some decompose to produce little black particles. Corrugated flex lines don't have that problem.

Does that sound like a sensible approach?

Yes. You could also bring copper stub-outs thru the floor, and put compression or sharkbite valves atop those. PEX would go under the floor to the input to the stub-out.

What I did (not freestanding) was to screw in some Dahl Miniball valves into my threaded casting. I then directly connected my PEX to the valves. So I bent the 1/2 inch PEX. What I did that was unusual was to bend 1/2 inch EMT conduit, and let that serve to bend, guide and support the PEX. It is a really tight fit. I polished the ends to avoid any scraping, and put plastic caps on each end of the conduit. Normal bend supports should work nicely for you. Or elbows. 3/4 PEX is plenty big. If using crimp/or clamp PEX, the brass elbows are bigger inside than the plastic (EP) fittings.

 

[Hiluxsurf]

Thanks for the extra info - to make sure I understand you correctly - you connected the miniball valves to the faucet direct, and then the PEX to the valves - with no braided/corrugated flexible lines?

If so - interesting - might give that a go!

And any particular benefit to copper stubs vs bringing the PEX through the floor?

A braided supply line has a braid over a plastic or rubber tube. Some are durable, and some decompose to produce little black particles. Corrugated flex lines don't have that problem.

Yes. You could also bring copper stub-outs thru the floor, and put compression or sharkbite valves atop those. PEX would go under the floor to the input to the stub-out.

What I did (not freestanding) was to screw in some Dahl Miniball valves into my threaded casting. I then directly connected my pex to the valves. So I bent the 1/2 inch pex. What I did that was unusual was to bend 1/2 inch EMT conduit, and let that serve to bend, guide and support the pex. It is a really tight fit. I polished the ends to avoid any scraping, and put plastic caps on each end of the conduit. Normal bend supports should work nicely for you. Or elbows. 3/4 PEX is plenty big. If using crimp/or clamp pex, the brass elbows are bigger inside than the plastic (EP) fittings.

 

[Reach4]

to make sure I understand you correctly - you connected the miniball valves to the faucet direct, and then the PEX to the valves - with no braided/corrugated flexible lines?

You understand.

And any particular benefit to copper stubs vs bringing the PEX through the floor?

They look nice, and have a mounting system built in. There is no way the PEX gets scuffed feeding through the floor.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

If the tubes are going to come up into a panel behind the tub, then just stub up with PEX in the tub dead space. You can protect the PEX with sleeves if needed. An inline ball valve or stop valve would work. but the smaller you go with your supply lines after the PEX the more restriction you will get for the filler. Likely you should be able to find an adapter that allows you to connect the PEX directly to the filler as well. Just depends on the filler connection. They're typically 1/2 or 3/4 IPS threads.

Depending on the tools you'll use for the PEX you might want to consider what fittings you want on the end before the tub is placed so you aren't trying to fit a big crimping tool into a space it won't fit.

 

[John Gayewski]

I used copper stubs. Valve. PEX, brass PEX 90, adapter, then straight onto the valve.

 

[Hiluxsurf]

Thanks all - will see if I can connect the PEX right to the filler as suggested...