Sumersable Pump Replaced but same reults as old pump.

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Mobster

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Funny thing and final post.

Thank You Gary for the pointer about the check valve, good eye! Once that was removed, I instantly gained better flow to compensate for the loss of pressure upstairs.

The funny thing is, when the well guy left, with tape all over the yard and pipe strewn across my front yard, I went to work re-taping my wire to reset my old well pump and completed the job in about 20 minutes. After it was installed, I ran the same test i posted last night and the old pump maintained 10psi higher than the new pump the well guy installed.

10 more psi + no check valve - 1 crook = problem solved.

Thanks for ALL the input guys (and gals)
 
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Gary Slusser

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You're welcome. I'm glad that helped.

You might still want to replace the old valves for the upstairs. I'm not sure the check valve was only problem.

And maybe send the crook a $100 check for his time and stick a note in with it telling him the check valve at the tank seems to have been some of the problem.
 

JohnjH2o1

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I have to question why was it there? Only time will tell....;)

Before they had bladder tanks galvanized tanks were used. There was no separation between the air and the water in the tank. Because of this a small hole was drilled in the pipe going down the well. When the pump cycled off the water in between the check valve at the tank and the pump would drain. Then when it cycled on it would recharge the tank with more air. A air eliminator was also installed in a tapping 2/3 of the way up in the tank to prevent the tank from becoming air bound.

John
 

Mobster

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You're welcome. I'm glad that helped.

You might still want to replace the old valves for the upstairs. I'm not sure the check valve was only problem.

And maybe send the crook a $100 check for his time and stick a note in with it telling him the check valve at the tank seems to have been some of the problem.

Gary, I offered to pay him for his labor and notified him of the check valve and his reply was, "Since you have knowledge of wells, I will come and remove my new pump, but I WILL NOT RE-INSTALL YOUR OLD PUMP and we'll call it a wash.

And that is exactly what he did. He was in such a hurry that he left three tools behind on the ground. I'm not sure but, I think he realized he pulled a bone head move.

After further research, several local plumbers and an inspector told me he does this all the time. I'm not the first person he has done this to and that I should file a complaint because in my state, once something is installed, regardless of the conditions, removing it is considered theft.

I'm just going to let it go with a lesson learned approach. I do not believe all contractors are bad, just this one.

Note: I also did a search on my property and through further consulting, I have been advised that my well should have a 3/4 horse 10 gpm pump. The extra 1/4 horse would help assure adequate pressure to the second floor.

Here are the well records:

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
Borehole Diameter: 1:

Borehole Depth: 1: 160 ft.

Casing Diameter: 1: 5 in.

Casing Length: 1: 34 ft.

Casing Thickness: 1:

Casing Height Above Ground:
Aquifer Type: SANDSTONE
Date of Completion: 8/24/1983
Total Depth: 160 ft. Well Use:
Driller's Name: JOHNSON HARDWARE CO.


WELL TEST DETAILS
Static Water Level: 85 ft. Test Rate: 10 gpm Associated Reports
Drawdown: 0 ft. Test Duration: 1 hrs. NONE
COMMENTS: NONE
WELL LOG
Formations From To
BROWN CLAY 0 15
BROWN SHALE 15 20
GRAY SHALE 20 25
GRAY SANDY SHALE 25 45
GRAY SANDSTONE 45 57
BROWN SHALE 57 85
GRAY SANDSTONE 85 160
 
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Valveman

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I would want a pump that could deliver about 10 GPM at 60 PSI in the basement, so I still had 46 PSI on the upper floor. A 3/4 HP, 12 GPM pump could deliver 9 GPM at 60 PSI, even if the water level in the well is 160'. Then it would also deliver 12 GPM at 60 PSI, if the water level never dropped below 100', which I think is the actual pumping level.

I believe the ½ HP is just not large enough to deliver the flow and pressure you need. If I were the pump installer, and you proved this to me, I would change out the ½ HP pump for a 3/4 HP, and only charge you the difference between the two pumps.

A larger tank won't help, and will even make the pressure problem worse. A tank is just another load for the pump. The pump has to refill the pressure tank at the same time as it is supplying water to the shower or other uses. Flow and pressure come from the pump, not the tank. So if you want more flow and/or pressure, you need a larger pump.

PS; Removing the pump, at least in our state, is not illegal unless you had told him to stay off your propeerty, he opened a locked gate to enter your property, or if you had no trespassing signs posted that he paid no attention to. If you let him in, then what he did was not illegal.
 
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