Sumbersible pump need help!

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Ncman01

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I have a submersible pump 350ft well. Pump possibly 250 ft down. Recently i had trouble with the pump not running replaced preasure switch30/50 and then pump would run to 50 psi and cut off. Exspansion tank at 28 psi for the cut on. When pressure drops to 28 switch switch engages, then the pump is getting voltage but does not run. I checked the amp draw to see 29.4 amps x 5 on small intervals of maybe tenth of second. When i leave it sitting few hours come back pump pressure is at 50 psi. Just its random when it works. Not sure what i need to do or if i need new pump?
 

PumpMd

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What size is your submersible pump(HP)? This is so everyone on here can check your motor specs on the correct amperage draw. Does this submersible pump have a control box?

Sounds to me like your bearings are going out in your submersible pump and it's kicking the overload built into the motor. It could also be a "RUN" relay in a control box that would make it act like your bearings are going out and it will also kick the overload built into the motor after it runs long enough on high amperage draw.
 

Ncman01

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I believe it is a 3/4 hp. The pump doesnt have control box either just wired to pressure switch. Last night i took it down to 0 psi and startes pump come right on back up to 50 psi, just when pressurised it can not start and pump.
 

PumpMd

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A Franklin 230V 2-wire 3/4hp submersible motor will pull locked rotor amps at start up for a split second at 40.7amps and then it will smooth out to roughly in-between 7-8.5amps.

The next time it won't start, make sure your getting proper voltage on both sides of the pressure switch to double check your getting proper voltage to the motor.
 

PumpMd

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Just want to make sure I didn't confuse you when I said both sides of the pressure switch.

The outside two should be the power from the breaker and the inside two should be the power feeding to your motor.
 

Reach4

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Just want to make sure I didn't confuse you when I said both sides of the pressure switch.

The outside two should be the power from the breaker and the inside two should be the power feeding to your motor.
How consistent is that in practice?

I would say that to be cautious, Ncman01 should check the 4 possible connections with his meter:

2 to 3 (what PumpMd expects the output to be)
1 to 3
2 to 3
2 to 4

Each of those 4 pairs should have 240V on them when the pressure switch is calling for water. Not all people hooking up pumps are consistent.
 

PumpMd

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Professional install it's pretty consistent. As long as the boss man is watching you on what your doing to hook it up right.

I figured you would post your picture of a light duty pressure switch.
 

Reach4

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I figured you would post your picture of a light duty pressure switch.
This one?
index.php
 

Valveman

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I believe it is a 3/4 hp. The pump doesnt have control box either just wired to pressure switch. Last night i took it down to 0 psi and startes pump come right on back up to 50 psi, just when pressurised it can not start and pump.

Most likely the thrust bearing in the motor is bad. At zero pressure there is less back pressure on the bearing, and it is more likely to start. Once started it may make it to 50 PSI and shut off. But when starting at 30 PSI as it should, the added back pressure on the bearing plus the start amp requirement is too much for the overload.

Pumps are only made for so many cycles, and it sounds like you have used them all up.
 

Ncman01

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What brand pump should i order? Not sure what is top of line pumps. Would like to get something that last but a motor is a motor. Any suggestions guys would be great thanks?
 

Valveman

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If your pump is set at 250' or deeper, you will need a 7 GPM pump, like a Goulds 7GS07.

But if the pump is set at less than 250', you can use a 10 GPM pump, like a Goulds 10GS07.
 
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