Suggestions on well with collapsed Casing

[Keith Blanchard]

I have a 4 inch well that has been having issues since i purchased the house 2 years ago.I had the water tested and the iron content was off the chart but everything else was fine.(no bacteria etc)
Last week the pump finally gave out and i had to explore my choices.
I did the usual above ground check like replacing pressure switch checking air in storage tank and verifying i had power.

I decided to pull the pump and found it was piped with 1 inch sch 80 pvc. This PVC was in 20 foot sticks that were threaded on the ends and connected using galvanized couplings.
I pulled about 50ft of pipe and could feel the pump getting stuck in the casing(it is a black iron casing).
tried several attempts but could not get pump past this point.

So i jammed pump just enough to un- thread the rest of the pipe and knocked the pump back down the well.
Pulled about another 50ft of pipe.My guess is the casing busted at about 50 ft and that is why after a heavy rain my filters clog and look like i rolled them in mud.

I looked into a 3 inch deep well pump and they run about $800 but i am not sure this will make it past the bad spot in the casing. Also bought a jet pump but the cast iron Y would not fit in the rusted well.

Currently i am using a 275 gallon IBC tank and just pumping water with a transfer pump into the house.
This is working fine i just need to be able to get water from well to IBC tank.(see picture)

My Plan now is to just pipe a 3/4 inch PVC with foot valve and use the transfer pump to fill up IBC tank when i need it.
This should be OK until i can get the $5000 to drill a new well.

TLDR;
4 inch well drilled in 60's or 70's with black iron 4 inch casing seems to have collapsed.
What would be best way to get water to IBC storage tank from well?
Any suggestions For a fix would be greatly appreciated
****NOTE I do not need a lot of pressure or flow i can fill up IBC tank slowly

 

[Texas Wellman]

How deep is it to the water?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Texas Wellman]

I've seen where people line the well with 2" PVC and then use a packer style jet. You would need a relatively shallow water level though.

 

[Keith Blanchard]

How deep is it to the water?

I know it is over 50FT i dropped a weight and a line down and it hit the mud/clay where the casing was bad.
So i figure around 60 to 80 ft to water
Originally the pump was sitting at say 75 to 100 ft
so i was going to pipe about 90ft PVC and hope i could pull water.
The transfer pump may not be able to pump from that deep but i figure it was worth a try

 

[Keith Blanchard]

Any suggestions on what type of pump i could use to bring water up from around 80 ft.
I am looking for the cheapest solution to hold me over until i can get a well drilled.

 

[Keith Blanchard]

http://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...ies/2-single-pipe-jet-kit/p-1444430525866.htm

Will this work and then i would have to purchase Convertible JET Pump.

http://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...nd-deep-well-applications/p-1444430525896.htm

So the only thing that would be in the well is 2" pipe?


Question is if Casing is allowing sediment in how long before this would clog and have to be cleaned or repaired.
Don't really have much experience with Jet Pumps.

 

[Reach4]

I had the water tested and the iron content was off the chart

I presume you were being figurative.

This should be OK until i can get the $5000 to drill a new well.

Did a driller say he would drill you a new well for $5000? PVC casing all of the way down? 5 inch would be better than 4 inch, although 4 inch schedule 40 would work well enough and could still accept a "4 inch" pump.

Borrowing money for many things is usually not wise (new car, for example), a new well is an actual investment worth borrowing for.

When you pulled your PVC apart, what happened to the wire?

 

[Keith Blanchard]

I presume you were being figurative.


Did a driller say he would drill you a new well for $5000? PVC casing all of the way down? 5 inch would be better than 4 inch, although 4 inch schedule 40 would work well enough and could still accept a "4 inch" pump.

Borrowing money for many things is usually not wise (new car, for example), a new well is an actual investment worth borrowing for.

When you pulled your PVC apart, what happened to the wire?

See attached Pic for Water sample.
The Well driller will drill 6 inch well up to a set amount of feet and i think the price includes pump and complete setup. so not saying it is not a good price just will take a few months to get the funds available.

The Wires snapped right at the base of the pipe. the wires were say a few inch's from bottom of pipe and i could see where they frayed.

 

[Reach4]

5 mg/L of iron is pretty much, but some have 4x that or more. You also have 0.06 manganese. Your hardness is low. You will maybe want to make your next water project a Katalox-light-media backwashing filter to remove iron and Mn. If you could do that sooner, that would be best, of course.

6.1 pH... kinda low. You might be treating that too. It may interfere with the iron and Mn removal even.

I wonder if you could add chlorine manually to precipitate out the iron and Mn temporarily as you save up for the backwashing filter. Unfortunately it precipitates into the casing. You would want to monitor that to keep the residual chlorine at an acceptable level. I know there are systems that drop chlorine pellets into well casing. Maybe they always have an activated carbon filter to remove the chlorine. I don't know. I have a feeling that nobody will second that kind of a system.

A 6 inch hole with 4 inch PVC casing all of the way down would be OK. A 6 inch casing down all of the way would be great. A casing down part way when you think your existing well collapsed would not be good IMO.

 

[Keith Blanchard]

5 mg/L of iron is pretty much, but some have 4x that or more. You also have 0.06 manganese. Your hardness is low. You will maybe want to make your next water project a Katalox-light-media backwashing filter to remove iron and Mn. If you could do that sooner, that would be best, of course.

6.1 pH... kinda low. You might be treating that too. It may interfere with the iron and Mn removal even.

I wonder if you could add chlorine manually to precipitate out the iron and Mn temporarily as you save up for the backwashing filter. Unfortunately it precipitates into the casing. You would want to monitor that to keep the residual chlorine at an acceptable level. I know there are systems that drop chlorine pellets into well casing. Maybe they always have an activated carbon filter to remove the chlorine. I don't know. I have a feeling that nobody will second that kind of a system.

A 6 inch hole with 4 inch PVC casing all of the way down would be OK. A 6 inch casing down all of the way would be great. A casing down part way when you think your existing well collapsed would not be good IMO.

From what i have been told by the Local drillers the well is not worth trying to fix.
I am just looking for temporary solution say 3 or 4 months.
100% believe i need a new drilled well but if i can put a few $100 on the old one that will give new some time to save up for the cost of a new one.