Suggestions on replacement Softener and Iron removal systems (or 'rebuild')

[KevinK7]

I'm on a private well, currently running on a (25+ year old) softener and iron removal system that recently sprung a (major) leak, so I've been bypassing system the past couple days. I've already been contemplating replacing the system, and the leak has me seriously considering that again.
Water is clear from the faucet, no real smell, has a metallic taste if not through system and if let sit in container, iron precipitates out (ie. iron is dissolved, ferrous). Not surprising, iron stains will form in plumbing fixtures if system is bypassed for any length of time.
I honestly don't know exact gallon usage, but there are 3 people in the house, 2 1/2 baths.
I already know the water is very hard and high iron (hence existing systems) but I again (today) retested the water :
Hardness: 20GPG (338ppm)
pH: 6.8
Iron: 1.5mg/L (1.5ppm)

Up until the leak, the existing system was working 'OK' (we have been manual regenerating the softener about twice a week) and with the iron removal system (which uses potassium permangenate) I'd be interested in an alternative if possible. Up until a couple days ago, it was still improving the water, but not sure if I'd be better off 'rebuilding' or replacing the whole system.

I'm leaning towards replacing since so old, but I'm here for suggestions, and if replacing what's one of the better systems out there and where to purchase from?

Thanks in advance for any information,

Kevin

 

[Reach4]

iron removal system that recently sprung a (major) leak,

The iron removal was working? What do you know about that system? Where is the leak? Photo?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[KevinK7]

Here's a photo of the current system. Well water passes through canister filter first, then iron remover, then through softener. (right to left in photo).

I have not narrowed down the specific point of the leak as all the pipes were sweating (ie cold water on a humid day), but believe it's the softener (top controller area) and not the iron remover.
With the system 'in service' water was 'soft/smooth' with levels of iron reduced, but not completely. As for, 'was the iron system working?', at a time it was, however the 'feel' of iron in the water (and metallic taste) is currently higher than desired/expected. How much the iron remover itself is doing is hard to quantify. It may be the softener itself was removing it and not as much the iron remover as it should.
I will also note that I was periodically running " Iron Out" through the softener and manually regen'ing. Doing this approximately every other week and it did help.
Just to note on dates, ...System was installed by a company called Aquasciences (dated on iron remover 10/1994).


Here are some additional photos of the system and the service manuals of the two systems:
Iron remover valve head:

Softener valve head:

Manuals(softener on left, iron remover on right):

 

[Reach4]

I would replace the softener with a "demand" type.
I used to have an Autotrol like that. The input is on the left as you face the valve.


Where is the leak?

The iron filter valve is a Fleck 5600 mechanical type. It has the input on the right as you face the valve. A 5600 can only backwash light iron media in a 10 inch tank. For that reason, you may be replacing both.

How tall is that white tank? 54 inches? That could be a 10x54 in a cover. I expect the blue tank is 48 inches tall. That could be a 9 x 48.

Does the label on the iron valve have info about the system

How often do you change that sediment filter cartridge?

 

[KevinK7]

Reach4, A quick THANK YOU in advance for taking the time to reply, very much appreciated.
Attempting to locate the source of the leak. About 'the leak', ...we were out of the house for 3-4 hours, and found water into the garage floor (6-8 ft away) that 'soaked' a doormat. Also, based on the condensation on the water pipes, I suspected the water was running for a while.
I have a number of valves, where I can completely bypass my whole system, sediment filter, etc. To 'level-set', I set the valves back, but put both Softener and Iron remover is "Bypass", over an hour, no leak. I then set both units, 'in service' (expecting to see leak right away), but surprisingly, nothing. I left/watched it for 1-2hours, still not leaking, (now I'm puzzled). I did check the brine tank, it does have water in it. My next thought was maybe the leak occurs during backwash/regen, so I manually started the regen (on the softener). Over 45minutes into the cycle, ...no leak. I'm home, working remote, so I'll keep an eye on it and update.

Tank Dimensions:
White (softener) tank - 8"x44" (meas. to base of valve asm). Your estimate of 54" is pretty much right on, (I measured 52" to top of valve asm)
Blue (iron remover) tank = 10"x40" (meas. to base of valve asm). Again, your estimate of 48" is what I measure to top of valve asm.

Sediment filter change frequency: Approx. every 2-3 months (and it is due)

Regarding iron system, there's only one label I found and a one page infosheet (photo'd here, but useless I think for ID). Other than being a greensand filter with the 5600 Fleck valve atop, not sure I know much more about it.

 

[Reach4]

Sediment filter change frequency: Approx. every 2-3 months (and it is due)

With a well, it is important to not use a cellulose filter element (not saying you have been). I run my pressure tank water into my backwashing iron+H2S filter, and do cartridge filtering after. Not sure which way is better. Would probably depend on the well. What kind of crud do you collect in the filter?

Tank Dimensions:
White (softener) tank - 8"x44" (meas. to base of valve asm). Your estimate of 54" is pretty much right on, (I measured 52" to top of valve asm)

That is pretty small. You would probably upgrade to a 10x54 inch tank with 1.5 cuft of resin for your new on-demand softener.

Blue (iron remover) tank = 10"x40" (meas. to base of valve asm). Again, your estimate of 48" is what I measure to top of valve asm.

Base of valve is how you measure. I suspect you have a 9" x 40" but that outer cover increases the diameter if you measure.

I see that your iron filter uses "pot perm" and greensand. If it is drawing pot perm, it may be still doing a good job. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/greensand-iron-filter-not-drawing-potassium-permanganate-fleck-5600sxt.53295/

 

[ditttohead]

Wow, neat old systems. Autotrol… I have sold thousands of them when I worked the field. Same for the old 5600.

I am not a fan of pot perm, it has mostly gone by the wayside. Since you have a low pH, pot perm tends to work... I am not a fan of using a softener for iron reduction but in your situation it might actually be acceptable due to the low pH. Resin is fairly cheap and easy to replace every 5 years, and adding citric acid to the salt tank rather than adding pot perm is much nicer and safer.. If you don't need to correct your pH ( a simple copper test can sometimes suffice) then this may be a viable solution. Iron reduction systems work better with higher pH... lots of information, sorry if it is getting confusing.