Submersible pump replacement

[Jox]

Hi everyone,

Been lurking here for great tips and guidelines since my water pump failed. This has been a great forum and I wouldn't have attempted replacing my pump if not for the valuable help here.

Anyway, I'm not a pro but fairly handy. Have tested the Franklin control box (manufacture date July 2000 - I assume the pump was in the ground there about around 19 years) to confirm the start line is probably shorted with out of spec low resistance reading. The town has no more record of the well permit so I don't know the detais of the well.

Tracing the pipe to the outside, I was able to locate the well pit. From the pictures below, is that already a pitless adapter on top of the well seal? How do I connect a T-handle to that? Is the plug on the top removable or will I break something?

I'm also considering extending the casing above ground but can I diy this or not allowed legally in CT? I can bring a welder to attach a casing but I'm not sure if I'm allowed to work on the rest.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Reach4]

I am pretty sure that you don't have a pitless adapter. Instead you have a "well seal". Well seals often don't seal very well.

Ideally you will have your pump people put in a pitless, and extend the casing above ground, as you propose.

But in answer to your question, I think that plug will not drop the pump. Removing the 4 bolts, or maybe even 2 bolts, can drop something that will really mess up your well. Your well people will lift the pump out by loosening the 4 bolts, and maybe use that thread where the plug is to lift.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jox]

I am pretty sure that you don't have a pitless adapter. Instead you have a "well seal". Well seals often don't seal very well.

Ideally you will have your pump people put in a pitless, and extend the casing above ground, as you propose.

But in answer to your question, I think that plug will not drop the pump. Removing the 4 bolts, or maybe even 2 bolts, can drop something that will really mess up your well. Your well people will lift the pump out by loosening the 4 bolts, and maybe use that thread where the plug is to lift.

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I'm aware of the bolt setup regarding the well seal, again from people like you and others who contribute a lot here. Just want to confirm that is a removable plug where I can connect a T-handle. I don't have well people as in my neck of the woods, well people charge as if they will do brain surgery.

What do you think would be best replacement pump? Control box has 1/2 HP 230v 3450 rpm specs. I'm leaning on the Goulds GS05 but would welcome any informed alternatives.

 

[Reach4]

4 inch steel casing? If so, consider a 3 inch SQ pump. The *GS05 would be good for 4 inch PVC or 5 inch steel.

How deep is the pump set and/or how deep is the well? If you don't know, what is the info on your neighbor's well?

5GS05, 7GS05, 10GS05, are appropriate for different water depths.

 

[Jox]

6 inch.

 

[Jox]

I don't know the details of the well, no more town records as house was built in the 50s. Once I open the seal, I plan to measure everything.

Is the well seal reusable? I'm ordering all the parts that I might need and want to cover all the basis. I'll likely replace all the electrical wiring, and maybe even the drop pipes.

 

[Reach4]

I don't know the details of the well, no more town records as house was built in the 50s. Once I open the seal, I plan to measure everything.

Is the well seal reusable? I'm ordering all the parts that I might need and want to cover all the basis. I'll likely replace all the electrical wiring, and maybe even the drop pipes.

You will want to be rid of galvanized on your home water well.

I doubt that you will want to save the well seal. Click Inbox, above.

 

[Jox]

True, I'll replace the drop pipes if still galvanized though if they replaced the pump around 2000 they could have changed it. I could be wrong, we'll see. Also lighter to pull/install.

 

[Valveman]

If it is plastic you can probably pull it. If it is galvanized you will need a pump man with a hoist truck.

 

[Jox]

If it is plastic you can probably pull it. If it is galvanized you will need a pump man with a hoist truck.

Hi Cary. Thanks for the reply. How much weight are we talking about if galvanized? Will a hoist used to lift like large v8 engines be good enough?

 

[Greenmonster123]

Hi Cary. Thanks for the reply. How much weight are we talking about if galvanized? Will a hoist used to lift like large v8 engines be good enough?

It will lift it but an engine hoist will only lift so far. It it is galvanized or even sch 80 You will need to be able to brace the pipe, unhook the hoist lower it, reattach, lift again, over and over. I wouldn’t atempt until you know what kind of pipe it is. If you take the plug out of the tee and suck out a little water you might be able to look inside to tell what the pipe material is.

 

[Valveman]

It is hard to clamp on to galvanized pipe anywhere but at the couplings. Those pipes are 21' long, which means your engine hoist would need to be able to lift at least 22' straight up.

 

[Jox]

Just got back to continue work on the pump. Cary it's not galvanized, drop pipe to 100 ft. I've loosened the well seal bolts and can lift the downpipe half to 3/4 inch before it hits resistance. Looks like the well seal rubber is fused with casing. Is the general design of well seals to grip the outlet tube both ways? I can apply more pressure to pull it, come along or winch, but want to make sure I'm not breaking anything on the inside connections, specially the drop pipe. The metal lid of the seal is loose, I can lift it a little but that's likely the distance of the loosened bolt to nut on top. Thanks for the help.

 

[Valveman]

You might have to pull the pipe and wire through the well seal until a coupling hits the under side of the seal to lift it up. It shouldn't take much more pull to slide the well seal rubbers out of the casing.

PS: don't loosen those well seal bolts too much and drop the bottom half of the seal down the well.

 

[Jox]

I guess that's my concern. Will any coupling, including actual connection from metal tube to drop pipe, withstand the pressure of the fused rubber? Generally it should but I think this seal has been here over 15 years. What was your experience like in this setting?

I didn't remove the nuts, just enough to level with the bolt ends, too corroded anyway to slip off.

 

[Valveman]

Tap on the well seal with a hammer while pulling up on the pipe. Or pound on it with a rubber hammer.

 

[Reach4]

I've loosened the well seal bolts and can lift the downpipe half to 3/4 inch before it hits resistance. Looks like the well seal rubber is fused with casing. Is the general design of well seals to grip the outlet tube both ways? I can apply more pressure to pull it, come along or winch, but want to make sure I'm not breaking anything on the inside connections, specially the drop pipe. The metal lid of the seal is loose, I can lift it a little but that's likely the distance of the loosened bolt to nut on top.

If your 3/4 inch assessment is close to correct, before banging with a hammer, I would tighten those bolts another quarter inch. I don't know the thread pitch, but if the bolts are 1/4-20, that would be 5 turns CW.

 

[Jox]

I can pull downpipe about 2-3 inches but well seal won't budge. Got to removed half the metal plate (don't worry bolt is seized with rubber and secured with nuts now). I can access the rubber and considering cutting it. From the pic attached, is there a full metal plate underneath or also half moon? Just want to make sure I don't drop anything down if I cut the rubber. I am replacing everything new.

 

[Valveman]

Seen them both ways. It could be solid or a split plate. Strange to be stuck that bad?

 

[Jox]

Yeah stuck that bad, but now that can access, I'll just pry the sides and pour some cooking oil, let it sit a bit and pull. Should provide enough lubricant in case it's a split bottom. It's been there about 20 years.