Submersible pump not running until "kick started"

[Volker]

I have a 17 year old 2 Hp. Franklin Electric, 245 ft. deep submersible well / pump. This morning, I woke up to no water and the galvanized tank pressure gauge read zero. I have irrigation zones going on during the night due to my location in the Palm Springs area. Lately, the pump will begin to respond by humming with the 30 Psi cut-in pressure. However, the pump will not deliver water even after humming for several minutes. However, when I manually open the Pressure Switch contacts and then allow them to close again, within about 30 seconds or less, the pump begins to deliver a good flow of water. Then, after one cycle of water delivery, the pump is just humming again until I manually "kick start" the pump again by opening the pressure switch contacts. After about 3 or 4 times of doing this, the pump will finally begin operating without assistance. The first "on its own" water delivery time takes about 3 minutes. Then, it seems to get going and each water delivery interval cycle is shorter and faster until it pumps water up every 24 to 30 seconds and stays at that rate until full pressure at 50 Psi. If I have some low level irrigation watering going on, then it will run all day. I though the Start Capacitor could be the problem so I changed it, but it did not help. I'm wondering if perhaps I connected the terminals backwards? Would the pump run at all if I that was the case? Do well control panel start caps operate on polarity? Would the cap. blow up if connected backwards for long period of time? I understand that after 17 years, I just may need a new pump.

 

[Reach4]

though the Start Capacitor could be the problem so I changed it, but it did not help. I'm wondering if perhaps I connected the terminals backwards? Would the pump run at all if I that was the case? Do well control panel start caps operate on polarity?

They are not polarized. I would change the whole box, or you could try changing the relay that switches in the start capacitor. It was worthwhile to change the start capacitor, but in this case that was not enough.

I am not a pro.

 

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[Texas Wellman]

Does your box have the deluxe version with magnetic contactors inside? If it does change these.

 

[Volker]

They are not polarized. I would change the whole box, or you could try changing the relay that switches in the start capacitor. It was worthwhile to change the start capacitor, but in this case that was not enough.

I am not a pro.

Thank you for the tip. I will try this….much cheaper than the $2,000.00 my well guy wants to replace the pump.

 

[Volker]

Does your box have the deluxe version with magnetic contactors inside? If it does change these.

Thank you for your reply. I do not have the deluxe version box, but I will order a new replacement control box and see if this helps.

 

[Bgard]

I would change the pressure switch, the contacts may be burned up and not allowing the full voltage to get to the pump.

 

[Nolan]

It might be worthwhile to check components with a multi meter before replacing the control box. It would be pretty easy to check voltage at the pressure switch like bgard suggests

 

[RayMan]

Based upon what you said, replace the pressure switch. You could try filing the contact points so they all (8) make a better connection but this would be a temporary fix. If your pump continues to short cycle like it is you will be replacing the pump and the control box too.

 

[Valveman]

The start relay has as much wear as the start capacitor. I would replace the relay as well. All of these things fail because of too much cycling on/off of the pump. You used up all your cycles in 17 years, which is pretty good compared to some. But with less cycling many of those pumps will last 30 years.

 

[Volker]

I would change the pressure switch, the contacts may be burned up and not allowing the full voltage to get to the pump.

I have replaced the pressure switch about 3 weeks ago. When the tank pressure goes down to 30 psi, the switch contacts close as they are supposed to. Then, I will get one upsurge of water. After that, just a humming sound unless I manually open the pressure switch contacts and let them slam shut. Then, immediately, I get water. I have to do this three or four times and then the pump will work fine until the tank is full at cut-off pressure. Then with the next draw down, it may do the same thing again. I have full voltage from my main 30 amp panel to the pressure switch and also on the L1 and L2 wires in the control panel. Does the control box Relay break down routinely? Maybe a new control box would solve the problem (or a new pump?) But if the pump is bad, how come it starts up when it manually "force" it?

 

[Volker]

Based upon what you said, replace the pressure switch. You could try filing the contact points so they all (8) make a better connection but this would be a temporary fix. If your pump continues to short cycle like it is you will be replacing the pump and the control box too.

Thank you for all of your input. Pressure switch is brand new (about 3 weeks) contacts are not scorched. It is not short-cycling. It is simply not bringing water up the pipes unless it click the contact point open and shut. If I had a slow running garden hose open, the pump will run all day long with no problem as long as it is in between the cut -in and cut-off range. So, that's why it is a mystery to me. I have had two well contractors look at it and they both tell me the water level in the well is too low and that is the problem. Yet, I do get water every time I do that little jump start on the switch.

 

[Reach4]

Does the control box Relay break down routinely?

A classic relay is a switch activated by an electric magnetic coil. I think newer ones have electronic switching to do the same function.

You could try changing the relay that switches in the start capacitor. Maybe there is a number on that that you could use to find a replacement.

A new box gets a new relay and more.

 

[LLigetfa]

I will get one upsurge of water

Sounds like it might be water hammer. Are there multiple checkvalves on the line? How close is the switch to the tank? Does that upsurge bounce the switch? Does the pump have a control box with relays and a capacitor that might need some new parts?

 

[Reach4]

I had missed the upsurge bit.

 

[RayMan]

When you click the pressure switch points On and Off it eventually works but you hear a humming sound during the time when it doesn't work.
Is there a run capicator in the control box that is not working? Check all the componets in the control box with a multi meter, one that can check the mFd of the capicators.

 

[Valveman]

The start relay has as much wear as the start capacitor. I would replace the start relay as well.

Again, replace the start relay. It de-energizes a second after the power is turned on. So you have to open the pressure switch (power off), and then close the pressure switch (power on), to get the start capacitor to make contact again and start the pump. The points in the start relay are bad.

And cycling is cycling. A short cycle is worse than a long cycle, but it is still a cycle and the start cap and relay are used for each start. Every time those points in the relay open they spark. This spark burns off a little of the contact with each start. You have simply used up all the starts that were built into it. These kinds of things are usually a good indication that the pump is next to go, because it only has so many starts built into it as well.