Stub outs for repipe?

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TheGewp

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I am repiping my house with pex, wondering what people prefer for stub outs. I'm leaning towards a brass drop ear and a nipple to the valve rather than using the drop ear bend supports and attaching the pex directly to the valve. The latter has fewer connections to leak, but also makes replacing a failed valve more of a headache down the line. Seems like the nipple option would require a smaller hole in the wall to install too. Am i way off? Missing anything? Thanks!
 

Terry

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I've stubbed with copper and used compression.
A lot of plumbers are stubbing PEX and using either a PEX joint or a Sharkbite. There's not really a wrong way with those.
 

Reach4

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Missing anything? Thanks!
Another option is to use a copper stub-out. You can put a compression valve on that. You can solder a threaded fitting. You can push on a Sharkbite.

I don't have a recommendation of which way to go. If you go with PEX out, I would consider a Sharkbite on that. Part of the consideration about getting a board solidly in place to screw the drop ear to. If you went drop ear, I would go 3/8.
 

TheGewp

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I'm hoping to avoid soldering. would a compression or sharkbite have the longevity of threaded brass? Basically i want to put this in and never touch it again. sounds like a drop ear bend support and a compression or sharkbite direct on pex might be best? Then there is no fitting behind the wall and if the valve fails I can replace it without cutting the tubing?
 

Reach4

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Are you talking about something like this:
630wg248e-4.jpg

That is a 1/2" Copper Stub Out Elbow w/ Ear. You can get one for PowerPex (expansion) or ring/crimp type -- matching what you are using. You want to be able to secure that "ear".

Then you cut to length. It comes sealed up, so you could pressurize it before cutting. Then do the Sharkbite or compression. I would go Sharkbite for ease. If using compression, there is more likelihood of a leak if you don't apply enough tightening.

Dahl stop valves are nice.

There are also things that can bring PEX out directly nicely, such as this:
sb3-7342-3.jpg
 
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TheGewp

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I'm talking about something like the lower option so that there is no fitting in the wall. My concern with those is that if there is ever an issue and i have to cut the valve off am i going to be able to push/pull enough pipe out to put a new valve on. I'm probably over thinking it though. Seems most places are pretty fond of copper, i'll probably just go that route.
 

Jadnashua

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My take...It's nice to have the valve anchored well, and connecting directly to pex with a valve, while it works, won't be really stable. A compression fitting should not rotate if you get it tight enough, but something like a Sharkbite can. Turn it enough, and the spikes holding it on will gouge the pipe, reaming a slot into the tubing. A compression fitting will work, but it's nearly impossible to get the pex at a consistent 90-degree angle from the wall, so the valve may be canted one way or the other and still move when you try to use it. If you go with the copper stubout, you can still use any choice of valve: solder, compression, slip-fit, and on the choice with solder, you could solder on a threaded coupling, and use a IP, threaded on valve, if you insist (most have gone to compression, which is faster and works just fine long-term).

There are other copper stubout versions than that shown, if that would suit your situation better. The one shown would work well if you used the nailing plate into a stud...having holes all around would also give you the option to install it with the angle pointing any direction, and work if you put a cross-brace in the wall as well. Pretty handy.
 
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