smo0thie
New Member
So that is the CSV doing its job. So what is this 25 psi pressure drop you are talking about? Are you saying that when you put a garden hose thread pressure gauge on the drain for the WH or a laundry tap, that during backwash that gauge reads 28 psi?
I have three gauges at the well. One on the well head before the CSV, one after the CSV and before the filter, and one after the filter (the one I’m calling house pressure). I’m getting a 27psi drop (53psi before and 26psi after) during backwash. From what I read, this is normal and so I’m not concerned about it. I also have one hose bib before the filter and one after the filter at the well to check the neutralizing effectiveness of the filter. These are what I used to check the pressures with the garden hose gauge against the installed gauges as you recommended. As I mentioned earlier, this revealed the gauges to be inaccurate, which I since corrected by relieving the oil-filled pressure (never knew you had to do this) to atmosphere. When the pump is not running all three gauges now read the same.
Here is a photo of the setup, but ignore the pressures as this was before I fixed the gauges:
So during RR, you have 53 to 70 psi out of the CSV, but the water pressure in the house goes negative? That would be your main complaint, right?
Yes.
Or are you also saying that in service (filter not regenerating), you have 53 to 70 psi out of the CSV, but the water pressure in the house drops to the twenties?
No. In service I have no issues. I just checked again to be sure, with a garden hose running on full I timed a 5 gallon bucket being filled to overflow in about 41 seconds. So over 7gpm. House-side gauge at the well was reading 50psi, and 54psi out of the CSV.