Stinky Water COLD SIDE.

[Michael Young]

Customer says hot water smells like egg. So we yanked the anode rod and replace it with a zinc anode rod. The guy said that worked almost immediately. Then he calls back to tell me the smell is back. I'm at his house yesterday. the hot water was fine; no odors. But the COLD WATER SIDE has an egg smell. I know they have all sorts of fixes. the cheapest thing I found was a little peroxide injector. Any other go-to solutions for COLD WATER THAT SMELLS LIKE ROTTEN EGGS? Maybe a 3-stage filter with two activated charcoal inserts

 

[Reach4]

I would consider a sanitizing of his well. That can have a good effect for some time. Can it last a year or more? I think it probably can. My writeup is more oriented to deep wells with pitless adapters, but if you can pull a vent, you could get recirculation. The big problem is that my method is very time-consuming. So he would need to do part of it. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/

If this is not well water, hmm. It is possible that sanitizing the plumbing where chlorine levels don't survive could help. I am more confident on the well thing.

Your idea of carbon filters in 20x4.5 housings may be sufficient, but requires cartridge changes. For drinking water, there are "carbon block" cartridges that run the water in the long-way (20 inches), but they don't support as much flow as the regular cartridges.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Michael Young]

I would consider a sanitizing of his well. That can have a good effect for some time. Can it last a year or more? I think it probably can. My writeup is more oriented to deep wells with pitless adapters, but if you can pull a vent, you could get recirculation. The big problem is that my method is very time-consuming. So he would need to do part of it. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/

If this is not well water, hmm. It is possible that sanitizing the plumbing where chlorine levels don't survive could help. I am more confident on the well thing.

Your idea of carbon filters in 20x4.5 housings may be sufficient, but requires cartridge changes. For drinking water, there are "carbon block" cartridges that run the water in the long-way (20 inches), but they don't support as much flow as the regular cartridges.

He does have a well. They've shocked the well several times. it doesn't work for more than about six weeks. He has shit water quality.

 

[Reach4]

He does have a well. They've shocked the well several times. it doesn't work for more than about six weeks. He has shit water quality.

If he drops the pH and uses a large flooding volume, I expect the good times to last longer. How much longer? I don't know. My WAG would be 12 weeks. I would hope for longer, but my hope or WAG are not based on experience.

Too bad he does not have an iron problem too. Many of the solutions for iron also work for H2S.

For H2S, an H2O2 (peroxide) injection followed by a contact tank would be rid of the H2S I think. Then a backwashing GAC tank removes the residual H2S plus some other stuff. Might be worth trying the replaceable 20x4.5 cartridges, but backwashing filters have much more capacity. If the H2O2 injection is tuned so there is not much residual, then a smaller filter may be up to the job. Plus, as far as I can tell, like there is a max of 4 ppm of chlorine residual, the corresponding number for H2O2 is about 25 ppm. I would not want either of those levels of residual, but there seems to be some tuning range for the H2O2. So if you inject H2O2 and the carbon does not last long enough, that could still be a proof of concept.

Another thing that can help H2S is using a "conventional" galvanized (or fiberglass) pressure tank instead of a precharged tank. A method of adding air is needed, and then an AVC (air volume control) releases the excess. One method of adding air is to have a bleeder valve several feet down the drop pipe, and a "snifter valve" to admit air up top before a check valve. So each time the pump starts, a dollop of air is shoved into the galvanized tank. I have only read of such things.

This may take more bucks and space than he wants.

I have a backwashing iron+H2S filter. It has a special carbon, and gets regenerated with a bleach solution after backwash, every 3 days. My H2S and iron are fairly low. I don't know how it would be for higher levels. Measuring lower H2S levels numerically is hard.