Sprinkler design question for 2000 sq ft lawn with slopes and winds

[kubais]

Hi, I am working on sprinkler design for my home lawn consisting of MP Rotators only, mainly because of sloped terrain and windy conditions. Since it´s my first design I would like to ask for a quick review if I made some serious mistakes with sprinkler heads positioning and dividing them in zones. I studied for quite some time all the design guides from the Hunter but since my lawn is not much uniform it was quite difficult for me to keep it head to head coverage only.

First I used Orbit sprinkler system designer – an online tool – to draw the plot precisely and had it automatically populated with sprinkler heads. That resulted in very uneven irrigation patterns so I started the job manually with creating arcs and counting GPM for each zone.

My water source is a water well and now with 1" piping going form the pump I am able to get 2 gallons of water in 8 seconds. Static pressure is constant at about 3,8bars (55psi) when valve is either closed or open which should give me around 15 GPM, at least according to Orbit designer.

I was also juggling idea of using water drip design for veggie plots but stopped it since I would probably need to use 2 more zones. Anyway I plan to run irrigation 2 to 3 times a week and that should be plenty enough for all the veggies.

A question on x-core controller placement. I can either use outdoor unit and have it installed at water source on the fence or run 100ft cable from garage to manifolds - which would be convenient for cheaper indoor unit (which would probably live longer being indoor) and not needing to walk across whole garden anytime I need to change things on the controller. The only caveat is the need to dig 5 feet trench at garage to get cables through pipe that is under garage foundations.

Here is link for the design:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fpigGLUDFwbTV6CaA

Appreciate any help.

I am from a metric system country - Czech Republic but tried to convert everything ...

 

[WorthFlorida]

The plan looks good since you used a tool. Just realize the the watering circles will not be a precise watering lines. You'll be able to adjust or change sprinkler heads to get the spray pattern and distance needed. Placing the controller can be anywhere. The controllers are not fully weather tight, most the weather proofing comes from the cabinet housing purchased. Some read indoor only and others outdoor. How will the pump be operated? Is it used for you domestic water or just irrigation. If it is for just irrigation the controller be better near the pump. You need power for the controller and will need to wire a relay to operate the pump motor. If it used for domestic water with a pressure tank, the relay is not needed.

Running a drip system with a lot of pressure and pump behind it can be hard on the pump if it is on its own zone. Drips comes in mini size or various size poly-hose with holes pre punched. Here in the USA it is usually a brown color tubbing. This just one brand https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rain-Bi...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-204185819-_-203826805-_-N . You can branch off one zone to run this type of drip system.

When placing the sprinkler head place them no closer than 30-45 CM's from the home or structures. When adjusting the spray distance and patterns try no have the water hit your home. Sometimes it is not a possible with wind, etc. Constant water on the home will deteriorate the exterior at a faster rate. Minerals in the water will dry on the surface of the home, such as paint and will discolor the finish

Since you have winters you need to be able to drain the system of water before winter sets in. Using an air pump (compressor) makes it easy. Another way is use gravity. Since you are on a slope, placing valves at the lowest end of the area will allow the lines to drain and one or two at the top end for air to enter. Just note, any sloping ground, when the sprinklers are turned off, the sprinklers may still spray water for a minute or two as the zone drains. Air will enter the sprinkler heads on the high ground. You may hear the water being siphoned. Just normal and nothing wrong. There are ways to prevent this is with built in check valves in the sprinklers, but they are not very common. Plenty of info on you tubes on this.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[kubais]

Thanks for your input. I have already watering system running for two years together with lawn - it´s just not automatic, but rather manual with mobile sprinkler which is very inconvenient. Either it´s time consuming when setting proper width and lengths, especially when it´s windy or it waters where it´s not wanted and lots of plants have fungi on leaves as a result. So at the moment I have deep drilled well that is pumping water into underground tank where is another pump that get automatically started when I open my garden tap. So my plan is to place manifolds and controller next to the tank. The only concern is that outdoor controller will not survive long enough.

As for winterizing I am already using air compressor to empty underground tubing so plan to do the same with automatic sprinkler system.

I am still unsure about drip system. Veggies usually need watering every day while I plan to water lawn 2-3 times a week. In my current plan veggies will be watered with regular lawn sprinklers. Not the best solution I guess. To use the drip system I would have to create separate zone or two since I have veggies on two opposite end of garden. Also not mentioning extra costs for valves and pipes. Next I have concern about pump since drip system is rather slow and pump will be pushich constantly 55 psi.

Here is the same plan divided into 3 zones with main piping: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LQ3ZMniNYiH5TA8d8

 

[WorthFlorida]

For your drip irrigation needs and your using a tank, use a fountain pump on a timer to feed a micro irrigation system. These pumps are relatively cheap and low water volume. The pump itself will need to sit inside the tank submerged.

Most vegetable plants do not like too much water. Not knowing your sun's intensity during the growing season it is hard to recommend. But what I used to do keep an eye on the plants and when they seem to start to be under stress then water. You'll know how many days between watering is needed. By the type of vegetable plants you can find how much ground moisture the plant prefers. I do know for a fact that too much water on tomato plants, the tomatoes will develop spots. The tomatoes will be OK, just not look very attractive.

 

[kubais]

During germination period and young stage plants at springtime I need to water every day, during summer usually every other day so summer time is probably same need as my lawn, spring is quite different, I am watering lawn every 4 days. Over watering veggies when using lawn sprinklers should not be such a problem since my soil is quite sandy and excess of water soaks is nicely.

I had a look at those fountain pumps and they seem like proper tool, unfortunately all those I checked have max pumping height up to 2 meters and I would need round 3m. Probably will have to use my main pump even form drip irrigation with help of pressure decreasing valve.