Spinning Bathtub Drain

[Razor18]

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer. I'm trying to remove an old bathtub drain in a 50 year old apartment we recently moved to. It was in the condition you see in the photos when we moved in. The top plug is missing so it's useless as a stopper. We've been using the shower but want use of the tub as well. So I decided to replace the drain/stopper and bought a new one at HD along with some plumbers putty.

Drain was not difficult to loosen and spin. And I noticed the old plumbers putty squeezing out as I turned. However, after loosening, all it does is just keep spinning freely. I can't lift it out. I'm assuming it's because that center shank/bolt is preventing the drain from lifting up. I am able to turn the shank as well but not as easily as I'm able to spin the drain. The shank also just spins without loosening.

The "Pro" at HD said the center shank was probably screwed in too deeply when installed and is catching on the pvc below the drain cross-members. Advised me to clamp on to the shank with locking pliers and pull up as I turn to pop the shank loose. But I'm stuck. No matter how hard I try, I'm unable to pull the shank up as I turn it with the locking pliers. It spins, but it won't pop loose. I'm not a plumber but I didn't think a simple drain swap could be this difficult.

I feel like I should be able to handle a simple home maintenance task like this on my own. But I can certainly call a plumber if it's not as simple as I thought and it does require a professional? Any advice, pointers or ideas? Thanks again.

 

[hj]

Have you tried rotating the LARGE hex nut, because that is what holds it together.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Razor18]

Have you tried rotating the LARGE hex nut, because that is what holds it together.

Hi hj. Thank you for the response. Yes, I have. Unless I'm mistaken, it seems the hex nut and the shank are one solid piece. They both turn as one.

 

[hj]

Whatever you bought at HD is NOT going to work to replace that stopper. Unless you can remove that large hex nut, (you will have to find a new drain JUST LIKE it to replace the strainer), you are stuck, because that would mean the lower thread is stripped and will not secure a new piece.

 

[Reach4]

Drain was not difficult to loosen and spin. And I noticed the old plumbers putty squeezing out as I turned. Sounds like you were tightening rather than loosening.

Is that shaft above the nut threaded at all?

How about cut the shaft with a cutoff wheel, and maybe drill out the rest? That would clear space for a rubber stopper.

Hollow rubber stopper?

Make your own with a drill press?

 

[Razor18]

Drain was not difficult to loosen and spin. And I noticed the old plumbers putty squeezing out as I turned. Sounds like you were tightening rather than loosening.

Is that shaft above the nut threaded at all?

How about cut the shaft with a cutoff wheel, and maybe drill out the rest? That would clear space for a rubber stopper.

Hollow rubber stopper?

Make your own with a drill press?

Hi reach4. Thanks for the response. No, I was definitely loosening. It got loose as I was turning counterclockwise.
No, the shaft is not threaded. I was considering using a cutoff wheel to cut the cross members of the drain which should allow me to at least remove the drain and get a better view under that shaft to see how to remove it. Not sure if that's the right move. The last thing I want to do is break something.

 

[hj]

You have a lower piece which has a thread in it, and the bottom cross hairs. The upper piece, which you can see also has 4 cross hairs. The center stud goes through the upper one and screws into the lower one clamping the tub between the two pieces. It is the ONLY thing preventing a leak, so until you are prepared to "go all the way" DO NOT cut the cross pieces out.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

The crossbars and drain assy need to held in place while the center bolt is unscrewed. The proper repair will be to replace the tub shoe, and in going that far, one should also plan on replacing the overflow too.

 

[Razor18]

You have a lower piece which has a thread in it, and the bottom cross hairs. The upper piece, which you can see also has 4 cross hairs. The center stud goes through the upper one and screws into the lower one clamping the tub between the two pieces. It is the ONLY thing preventing a leak, so until you are prepared to "go all the way" DO NOT cut the cross pieces out.

Hello again hj. Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I understand there is a separate lower piece and upper piece. I can actually see the pvc cross bars from the bottom piece and you can see them in the photo as well. And yes, as you said, the center stud goes through the upper piece and screws into the lower one. But I did not realize that it was the only thing preventing a leak. Thank you for that! That center stud is the one giving me a problem. It just keeps spinning but does not loosen.

However, if I'm not mistaken, I don't think I can prevent a leak now anyway because I loosened the plumbers putty when I loosened the drain. So now I don't know if it's safe to even take a shower without risking a leak. And I can't apply new plumbers putty since I can't get the drain off. So we're reduced to one working shower until I get this fixed.

When you say "go all the way", what are you referring to? Do you mean I might have to replace the bathtub? Thanks again.

 

[Razor18]

The crossbars and drain assy need to held in place while the center bolt is unscrewed. The proper repair will be to replace the tub shoe, and in going that far, one should also plan on replacing the overflow too.

Thanks for the input cacher_chick. I was planning on replacing everything and bought this set at HD. But I haven't been able to get the old drain out. I did secure the crossbars and drain assembly while unscrewing the center bolt. No use. The bolt just keeps spinning with a fair bit of resistance no matter how long I keep unscrewing it.

 

[hj]

The putty has NOTHING to do with leaking below the tub. It keeps the water from leaking DOWN/INTO the drain when the plug is inserted.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I am uncertain that yku realize what you are getting into as that drain and overflow cover will probably not fit the tub shoe or everflow that is on the tub. You are very likely going to need access from below the tub and/ or through the wet wall to replace the tub shoe.

 

[Dj2]

I second what cacher_chick says.

I would find the access to the back of the tub and replace the entire drain set.

 

[Razor18]

The putty has NOTHING to do with leaking below the tub. It keeps the water from leaking DOWN/INTO the drain when the plug is inserted.

Thank you hj. At least we can still take showers until I get this sorted out. I appreciate your time.

 

[Razor18]

I am uncertain that yku realize what you are getting into as that drain and overflow cover will probably not fit the tub shoe or everflow that is on the tub. You are very likely going to need access from below the tub and/ or through the wet wall to replace the tub shoe.

Thanks again cacher_chick. I definitely was not certain what I was getting into. That's why I am grateful for everyone's advice. At this point I'm beginning to think if it might make more sense to just replace the tub with a new one. We bought the apartment knowing that the tub would need some type of repair because the tub faucet doesn't work and water only comes out of the shower.

I second what cacher_chick says.

I would find the access to the back of the tub and replace the entire drain set.

Thanks dj2. Access to the back of the tub is limited and it looks old and yellowed (photo below).

If I'm going to need a professional plumber to handle this and we need to start removing things, then would it be wiser to just get a new tub at the same time?