Spinning a Toilet 90* for Better Access & Pipe Layout

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NTL1991

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Hey guys. I’m looking to help my senior mom with her bathroom. The issue is access to the toilet; it’s directly opposite the bathtub and against a wall and it’s just too tight for her. I’d also like to get her a chair height, elongated toilet. It doesn’t help that the flange is roughed-in at 14” and the toilet is a standard 12” rough-in.

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My plan is to spin the toilet around 90 degrees. The problem is going to be dealing with floor framing, an extremely old cast-iron external vent, and a strange pipe layout.

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The house is circa 1802 and had a couple cesspools, the 4” drains to the rear cesspool was cut off at the foundation wall when it was filled decades ago.

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If I can remove the external vent, I’d love to. It only extends to below the eaves, which attracts flies and spiders. Not sure if I can bypass it with a Studor AAV somewhere. There is no plumbing on the second floor, only bedrooms. The only other vent in the house is at the kitchen sink, which extends up through the roof.

As far as framing, it looks like I have all the depth I need to get the correct 12” rough-in against the “new” back wall of the toilet, and I’m limited to about 3 inches of movement to the left before I start hitting a large beam, but I think it should work out okay.

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What do you guys think?
 

Reach4

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What is the current distance of the toilet front to the wall? If over 30 inches, you can gain significant space with a different toilet.

Another alternative is to get a toilet with a 14 inch Unifit. That moves the toilet closer to the wall. There are ways of tuning the distance to the wall.

MS446124CUMG has dimensions. That 3/4 space can be tuned. The Vespin and Soiree are alternatives that are only a tad longer.

MW6463046CEMFG is a version that includes a Washlet. She would like that, even tho she might not yet know that.

Also consider adding a grab bar or hold bar above the toilet paper roll. Consider a cabinet to the right or some other means of support on the right.

Regarding moving the closet flange, that is good too. There are good offset closet flanges that can offset 1.5 inches without adding a clogging point.

Remember there should be 15 inches of space from midline of the toilet.

Also not that you are not supposed to use that santee on its back for a toilet and the rest of that area seems suspect. So if you re-do that plumbing, it could get more complex.
 
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NTL1991

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I’ve noticed that sanitary tee and a second on its back where the washing machine ties into the 4” main drain that starts at the toilet and wraps around the foundation, heading to the sewer at the front of the house.

The sanitary tee has to go, in favor of a proper wye & 1/8 bend or combo. That would be loads easier if I didn’t have to tie into that darn cast iron cleanout and exterior vent, though. Is there a way I can get proper venting while abandoning the old stuff?

I’d also like to clean up where the tub drain connects into that 4”. The whole arrangement is just very awkward, but the house doesn’t have a proper stack to speak of and is a mess. The house originally had a cesspool in the back, and one in front by the street. When the town ran the sewer in the late 70s, they tied everything into the front cesspool connection and filled both in.

I like the corner toilet idea. And the current round toilet measures 30-1/8” from finished wall to front of the toilet seat.
 
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Reach4

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I’d also like to clean up where the tub drain connects into that 4”. The whole arrangement is just very awkward, but the house doesn’t have a proper stack to speak of and is a mess.
You should have a roof vent to relieve pressures, even if you use some AAVs.
 

NTL1991

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You should have a roof vent to relieve pressures, even if you use some AAVs.

I’d imagine the vent from the kitchen, which is either 1-1/2” or 2”, and a good 25-30 linear feet down the line isn’t sufficient.

Sounds like I’m stuck with this 100+ year old cast iron exterior vent for the time being.
 
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