Specific, "Which One of These Two Models?" Question...

[Deandome]

Hi, and thanks for your help! Note that I'm being specific here; I consider myself a good (if not obsessive) when it comes to researching purchases like this; I've searched thru & read a lot of great info on this site before making this post,

We moved in our current home a year ago, have softened well water, but the softener is only about 2-3yo (it's a good, Hellenbrand one). But the 40g Richmond heater (tall) is about 7yo, and there are 'stones' rattling around inside when it heats up. It also seem to go 'on' a lot; heating up in the middle of the night when there hasn't been any hot water running for several hours. I'm guessing the years prior to the good softener created the stones & what I imagine to be a crusty anode rod.

I was going to just drain it & get a new anode rod, but thinking about it, the stones sound like they're too big to drain out, and the anode might be so roached that it doesn't come out easily/at all. $50 for a good rod, $15-20 for a 1-1/16" socket & the possibility I could kill it when doing the work has me thinking it's better to replace it. I replaced a gas heater at my previous home & feel comfortable doing it again.

Knowing the supply houses usually carry slightly better units than bigbox stores (i.e., brass valves)...and having access to 2 major local supply houses...I have it narrowed down to two units w/identical specs & identical prices (within $2!!); an AO Smith ProMax GCR-40 and the Bradford White Defender RG240T6N. I was surprised to see so much negativity on AO Smith re. 'clogged filters' and pilot light issues. Bradford white doesn't seem to have any systemic problems, but overall brand reliability LOOKS to be about the same (and I know that the vast majority of people that don't have problems never say anything in reviews).

SO...I have two questions:
1- what features/'issues'/history would lead you to pick one of these models/brands over the other
2-do you know if I can/should add a 2nd anode rod to either one of them (knowing I have tested/good softened water & will keep up on salt & maintenance)?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!

 

[Reach4]

I was going to just drain it & get a new anode rod, but thinking about it, the stones sound like they're too big to drain out, and the anode might be so roached that it doesn't come out easily/at all. $50 for a good rod, $15-20 for a 1-1/16" socket & the possibility I could kill it when doing the work has me thinking it's better to replace it. I replaced a gas heater at my previous home & feel comfortable doing it again.

You would figure to use an impact wrench rather than a breaker bar.

Regarding the stones, remember they went through the pump intake screen and then the pump. So there is a limit on size. Still draining and flushing by turning the incoming water on in spurts would be easy and free -- if you don't replace the drain valve. You could also temporarily replace the drain valve with a 3/4 nipple to be more free-flow during the flushing. Being temporary, that could be galvanized or PVC.

On second thought, the sound you are hearing may be something other than stones actually rattling. I suspect is a localized boiling, and flushing might clear out stuff that is serving as a heat insulation of sorts.

I went to a powered anode, because it will not support H2S production. That costs even more, but I intend to move it if I have to change my WH.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Deandome]

Thanks! When I said 'stones', I used quotes to infer that I knew (assumed) they were calcium/mineral deposits that has built up into large 'clumps'...not actual rocks from the well. And that level of deposits in a 6-7 yo heater would suggest that there were several years when it was heating NON-softened water...right? Cuz I thought deposits were minimal...almost non-existant...with softened water, and I know that my heater is about 4 yrs older than the softener. And the last owner put a lot of $$ into the house, including the softener about 3 years ago; prior to that time, the original owner might not have had any softener in place (the well water actually tested out as pretty darn good).

But you have put me back in the mind of servicing it first, though I don't have an impact wrench, so that make my service bill even more!! What's kind of nice is that my crawlspace hatch is RIGHT next to the heater, so I could drain plop a garbage can down there & strain the water to see what comes out (then pump it into a sink). OR...if I run a hose up a few feet to the sink in the same room as the heater, will the stones still come out as easily, or would they weigh so much that they'd remain in the tank as the water rushes around them?

While I'm on that topic in general, I've always wanted to know if it's OK to 'drain up' a few feet so you can run the hose to a laundry sink vs. keeping the hose as flat as possible & running it into a sump-pump or whatnot. Does the sediment always climb up the hose OK in that scenario

I'm still confused; servicing makes sense, but it's a crappy plastic valve, so I'd probably want to put a new one in, right? Gearing up for this requires an anode, socket, impact wrench (Harbor Freight!), brass valve...I'm guessing that totals about 25% the cost of a new heater!

 

[Reach4]

I'm still confused; servicing makes sense, but it's a crappy plastic valve, so I'd probably want to put a new one in, right? Gearing up for this requires an anode, socket, impact wrench (Harbor Freight!), brass valve...I'm guessing that totals about 25% the cost of a new heater!

I put a full port ball valve on the end of a nipple instead of my plastic cheap OEM valve and then a GHT adapter on that. Probably overkill.

Regarding draining solids uphill... I don't know. I drained into a tub for my first cleanout, and then pumped water out with a utility pump. That was a smaller scale than what you were describing with the garbage can. I guess whether little rocks go uphill will depend on the velocity. But for the cleaning action, I think you want the tank totally empty so that you can turn on the supply in bursts and get some turbulence. If you took the anode out, you could maybe play a pressure washer nozzle into the hole. If you have a nipple in the side of the tank instead of the valve, you could maybe stick the nozzle in there. I did not use a pressure washer. There is a little wand sold for the purpose. Did not have one of those either.

Regarding the HF impact wrench and sockets, the cheapest 1/2 incher broke the first day. I returned the broken wrench and the sockets, and bought the next biggest wrench and matching sockets.

 

[Jadnashua]

Should you decide to replace, BW tends to get better long-term reliability from what I've seen here. BUT, some of it is just luck of the draw. A gas-fired WH wont' last as long as a typical electric one. You'll find that a new one is likely to be taller since it requires a differently designed burner chamber to prevent flammable vapors from exploding if it isn't protected from them (gas fumes, paint fumes, etc.). That, and the insulation must be better to meet the minimum federal guidelines.

 

[Jadnashua]

Should you decide to replace, BW tends to get better long-term reliability from what I've seen here. BUT, some of it is just luck of the draw. A gas-fired WH wont' last as long as a typical electric one. You'll find that a new one is likely to be taller since it requires a differently designed burner chamber to prevent flammable vapors from exploding if it isn't protected from them (gas fumes, paint fumes, etc.). That, and the insulation must be better to meet the minimum federal guidelines.

 

[Dj2]

Replace the water heater, forget repairing the existing one.

Which one of the two? since choosing a water heater is more luck than anything else, take the less expensive one with a 6 year warranty.

BTW, Bradford White and OA Smith have plenty of complaints on line, and so do Rheem and American.