Speaking of stuck pumps----

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Leaky Boot

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Just getting ideas for the future problems. Lets say your pulling a pump, 240 ft down, 1 hp, set on sch 80 pvc. It jams on something after it comes up a joint or two. You know your going to break something if you apply any more pull. Plus it will most likely break at the top if you do pull more. You done tried the up and down to get past the problem. How to get the pump off the pipe and let it go to the bottom but get the pipe out? Cable tool drillers have a cable cutter that works off the jars. Anyone have a tool for this? My idea would upset the ATF boys. LB
 
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Valveman

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This is another one of those scenarios where if you had a camera you could see what you needed to do. In the past I have made a cable hoop with a weight. dropped it over the wire and pipe until it was just above the pump, then pulled on this until it broke. Was always able to get the pipe and wire out of the well this way, and just let the pump fall to the bottom.
 

PumpMd

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That would be very interesting to see something like that, to also work 240' down in water. I posted one on here to cut the inside casing pipe to install a pitless adapter on old wells that used a well seal, where they never intended it to ever have a pitless adapter installed.

The other problem would be to making them small enough to work in 4" and 4 1/2" PVC casing.
 

Boycedrilling

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From experience, it take between 6,000 and 8,000 pound of pull to pull schedule 80 pvc apart. It will fail in the threads. It will stretch approximately 1 foot per 100 ft of length.

Yes there are casing and tubing cutters. I have international casing cutters for 6-16” steel casing. I have looked at having external cutters made to cut turbine pump tube and shaft. I’m a dealer for Logan oilfield fishing tools. They do make external cutters for tubing. Without looking in my price book, I would expect one to cost over $5k.

And yes, I have used dynamite to blow drill rod apart.
 

Boycedrilling

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Looked in my Logan price book.

A 2 5/16” OD cutter to cut 1.050-1.325” is $5824, plus freight
A 3 7/8” OD cutter to cut 1.325-2 3/8” is $9424, plus freight.

How many would you like to buy!
 

Reach4

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This is another one of those scenarios where if you had a camera you could see what you needed to do. In the past I have made a cable hoop with a weight. dropped it over the wire and pipe until it was just above the pump, then pulled on this until it broke. Was always able to get the pipe and wire out of the well this way, and just let the pump fall to the bottom.
Good thing there was no torque arrestor half way down.
 

Leaky Boot

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Good thing there was no torque arrestor half way down.

You beat me to that comment. Even wire guards would make it a challenge. Most real old wells have neither. But some do have an arrestor about halfway. LB
 

Leaky Boot

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I was putting a strain on a pipe string as we tried to get the rusted cap loose with a hammer and chisel when the top steel T popped off and we had to grab for the pipe as it went down. Nobody had on hard hats----not a good idea as the steel part come down. Luck it missed everyone. I must have had more pull than I though. But I do think old PVC breaks a lot faster than new. We been having trouble with the PVC threaded coupling 30 yrs old cracking down the side, even though we handle them with kid gloves and watch the pressure we put on them. I see it like this---a new PVC will cut easy like it is soft. An old one will just start to cut then snap. Age makes it brittle. Now I try to mention to people if we reuse the couplings that is the danger they might crack next week--which one did about a month ago. LB
 

Leaky Boot

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Looked in my Logan price book.

A 2 5/16” OD cutter to cut 1.050-1.325” is $5824, plus freight
A 3 7/8” OD cutter to cut 1.325-2 3/8” is $9424, plus freight.

How many would you like to buy!


Take a lot of pumps to pay for one of those.
 

Leaky Boot

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I think you just need someone from the Middle East that likes to play with things that go BOOM. Just give him a long wire the right length to hang it on and get back.
 

Valveman

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I was putting a strain on a pipe string as we tried to get the rusted cap loose with a hammer and chisel when the top steel T popped off and we had to grab for the pipe as it went down. Nobody had on hard hats----not a good idea as the steel part come down. Luck it missed everyone. I must have had more pull than I though. But I do think old PVC breaks a lot faster than new. We been having trouble with the PVC threaded coupling 30 yrs old cracking down the side, even though we handle them with kid gloves and watch the pressure we put on them. I see it like this---a new PVC will cut easy like it is soft. An old one will just start to cut then snap. Age makes it brittle. Now I try to mention to people if we reuse the couplings that is the danger they might crack next week--which one did about a month ago. LB

All the threaded plastic couplings I tried cracked way sooner than that. I always use metal couplings on threaded sch 80 PVC. Galv, brass, or SS. I also do not use pipe dope or Teflon when screwing plastic pipe into metal couplings. I just tighten them until they pop a time or two and quit. I think not using dope keeps them from coming unscrewed if they go to rapid cycling for some reason.

Sure old pipe is more brittle, but safer. It is the plasticizers in in the plastic that dissipate over time and make the pipe more brittle. But the plasticizers are not good for you, and it is safer after they have dissipated for a while.
 

Leaky Boot

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All the threaded plastic couplings I tried cracked way sooner than that. I always use metal couplings on threaded sch 80 PVC. Galv, brass, or SS. I also do not use pipe dope or Teflon when screwing plastic pipe into metal couplings. I just tighten them until they pop a time or two and quit. I think not using dope keeps them from coming unscrewed if they go to rapid cycling for some reason.

Sure old pipe is more brittle, but safer. It is the plasticizers in in the plastic that dissipate over time and make the pipe more brittle. But the plasticizers are not good for you, and it is safer after they have dissipated for a while.


We never use the plastic couplings but do run into alot when replacing pumps. I like to be able to tighten things down with out worry. LB
 
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