Some flux questions

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DonL

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Don, are you using 6/40 rosin flux electronics solder? Lol.


I use Kester Sn63/Pb37

I still have a few pounds. Need to bootleg to get more.

That self clean, no wash Flux Sux, compared to old school.


Most of my work is on Copper, Silver and Gold.
 

BobL43

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I use Kester Sn63/Pb37

I still have a few pounds. Need to bootleg to get more.

That self clean, no wash Flux Sux, compared to old school.


Most of my work is on Copper, Silver and Gold.
Many years ago (40?) I obtained a 5 lb spool of Eutectic Beautyrate or something like that, solder with a flux core that easily solders stainless steel and the solder itself is food grade rated. I often use it to sweat copper and it has like a 15,00psi tensile strength rating. Wonderful to work with. Never had a leak using that stuff.
 

BobL43

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I use Kester Sn63/Pb37

I still have a few pounds. Need to bootleg to get more.

That self clean, no wash Flux Sux, compared to old school.


Most of my work is on Copper, Silver and Gold.
I meant to say 60/40, but you knew that. I have a bunch of old electronic rosin core solder and some Kester plumbing solder from the 70's, but I don't use them for plumbing because of the lead content.
 

ShockHazard

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I don't have much trouble with water based flux, but it does tend to scorch and leave ugly joints. I usually need to wipe them with a dry rag, followed by a moist one to wash the flux off. If so much as a drop of water occurs during the operation it washes it off entirely, which is why I never use it on lines I can't flush dry. As for when to tin the joint, I just wait until the flame turns green. I've never heard of acid flux being out of code, as it's food grade to begin with. Make sure you're using MAPP gas, rather than propane, it makes a world of difference.
 

ShockHazard

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Your kit was missing Safety glasses, They are a must in my book.

IMG_1014.jpg


Ain't that the truth.
 
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PRofMich

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My first question is does flux go bad? I bought some flux about 8 years ago to do a repair job and was about to use it again. It doesn't look separated or anything. Just curious if the chemical composition degrades over time.

Also, in doing some recent research, I've found that 'water soluble' flux is required for all potable water systems. Can anyone tell me if the flux I have is water soluble? It doesn't say as such on the container so I'm guessing it probably isn't.

Rectorseal C-flux, Product Code 74026, Lead Free, Acid Free

It was a plumber working at a big box retailer that initially sold me the flux for my repair project and, as it was lead free, I had assumed it was the correct stuff to use. If not water soluble, can someone recommend a good water soluble flux to use?

Thanks for any help.
As an fyi, the new valves and such don't have lead in them making the soldering process different. It's a bitch.
https://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/Soldering_Copper_Alloy_Flanges.html

 
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