Soldering small copper tee

Users who are viewing this thread

90066

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Hello,

I need to splice into a 1/4 copper line. I was planning to go compression fitting route, but since I'd love to learn to properly sweat the copper pipes I was thinking of doing that.

I looked at a bunch of tutorials for a single joint. What I am worried about with the tee, though, is that the tee for 1/4 (OD) line is maybe ~3/4" long. So, it's very difficult for me to "point heat it". The effect I am afraid of is twofold:
  • i may pull a bunch of solder into the tee itself (on my previous attempt at this, I swaged the pipe, and the "female" end ended up a bit big, so as I was trying to draw solder into it, I am sure I overdid it and ended up with a lot of solder inside the pipe)
  • I am afraid that as I finish one joint, and go to work on the next one, the first one is going to be "unsoldered".
Am I thinking about it all wrong? Or, maybe, my problem is that I just need to drastically reduce my flame and increase the heating time so that it hits less of a surface? Anything else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,863
Reaction score
4,430
Points
113
Location
IL
Most fittings have stops that keep the fitting from dropping.

You are not going to pull the solder into the big hole-- only into the close clearance. I guess you could maybe keep feeding but just be content when the solder gets sucked in and wraps around.

I was very impressed with the Oatey No. 5 flux with silver-containing lead-free solder recently. It was as easy as lead-containing solder. I also liked the https://www.oatey.com/2374926/Product/Oatey®-O.D.-Tube-Cleaning-Brush I don't remember if mine was Oatey. I soldered 3/4 copper and 1/2. I used fine emery cloth for one, and the brush for the other. Both worked well.
 
Last edited:

90066

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Thank you! I thought I was going to have to bridge larger gaps, so I bought BRIDGIT. Couple of joints worked out real nice (to my untrained and absolute newbie eye). But that one joint I just kept feeding solder in, and it kept going in and in. I later cut the pipe for unrelated reasons, and found a whole lot of solder in it.

You response gave me this idea that I probably did not swage it correctly! I probably clamped it in flaring clamp (don't know if it's correct term) too high, so there was not clear "flare" (which would have acted as a stop for solder!)

Thankfully 1/4 copper is cheap :)
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,603
Reaction score
1,042
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
But that one joint I just kept feeding solder in, and it kept going in and in.

I was working on a bell and spigot/lead-oakum job once. As I was working on a section, the journeyman kept going back and forth for ladles of lead. I asked him what he was doing and he said, "pouring a 2" horizontal joint". I went back to the joint, took a hammer and smashed the pipe. He had about 5# of lead in a long "snake" on the bottom of the pipe.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
On a 1/4" pipe, you only need about 1/4" of typical solder to fill the joint properly. 1/2" on a 1/2" pipe. More usually just ends up dripping or flowing where you don't want it. If you fluxed things properly and cleaned the pipe and fitting, it should be good.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks