Softener, Help with test results - what do I need?

[tgnj]

Hi, I’m hoping someone can help interpret these water test results and help point me in the right direction.

House is in Hunterdon County NJ, built in 1987, and I bought it about 18 months ago. It has 4 bedrooms but I live alone. I have no idea how deep the well is. The only treatment currently in place is a 10 inch 5 micron filter, which was bypassed for this water test. I change it monthly.

The 5 micron filter turns orange very quickly, and the water tastes terrible (metallic), so I expected iron and/or magnesium to be high, but they’re not. In fact, none of the results look too bad (of course, I don’t really know what I’m looking at).

Do you see anything here that could result in funky-tasting water? Should I simply upgrade the filter to a larger one, or add something else? Thank you!

 

[ditttohead]

The fact that it is turning orange and the water has a metallic taste would indicate iron. Your test level was low but certainly present. Iron levels can change significantly day to day depending on a multitude of factors.

Does the water suddenly taste ok when you install a new filter? Is the filter a Big Blue size (approx. 4.5" diameter) or a slime line (2.5" diameter)?

 

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[tgnj]

The filter is the smaller size, 2.5" diameter, and the water still tastes bad with a new filter. Interesting that iron levels could change so much. I just checked the test I had done a year ago, and iron was .068 then (.106 now).

 

[ditttohead]

It is very normal for water to change regularly. .06 - .1 is nearly identical, neither is really all that bad but it is enough to create some taste issues. Is your plumbing galvanized? Do you have an old pressure tank? Do you have an steel atmospheric tank? How much re you willing to spend to fix this issue?

 

[tgnj]

All plumbing in the house is copper, but looks like there's a very short run of galvanized from the well to the tank. It's a Champion tank, installed in 2015 (I bought the house in 2017). I'd be willing to spend $1500 or so. Thanks.

 

[ditttohead]

That looks more like stainless. Since your iron.manganese levels are so low, a simple softener may be an ideal solution for your application. A Hydra pre filter would also be good. A small Katalox light tank may be beneficial and reasonably priced. Something like the Hybrid unit may be a good solution. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/12-13

 

[Atomic1]

Just because the sediment filter turns orange does NOT necessarily mean iron. It is consistent with the color of sediment. My water has zero iron and the whole house sediment filters will turn orange after a week.

In my opinion, the test results are somewhat lacking to tell you the whole story. It really should be reporting Calcium, Chromium, Copper, Lithium, and Magnesium.

Your water only has 5.7 grains of hardness, I see no reason for a water softener, and in my opinion wont do jack squat to improve the taste. In fact, I have issues with the consumption of softened water.

I bet there's something not in the test results that may be giving it a bad taste. I am very happy with my Home Master Artesian RO system from The Perfect Water Company. https://www.theperfectwater.com/Hom...-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-Filtration-System.html

I was able to install it myself, and if you poke around the internet, the system gets pretty good reviews.

 

[tgnj]

Thanks to all for the replies.

A local company recommended an Iron Breaker III 10x54 ($1860) with Filox-R media ($580) to remove the iron. Another $750 for install. Does Iron Breaker III seem like a good solution? Thanks.

 

[Reach4]

You would presumably get 1.5 cubic ft of filox media, unless that is a mixed media system.

Filox is heavier than most media, so it takes a higher backwash rate than most media. It would take maybe 11 gpm to backwash in a 10 inch tank. I understand that is more than what is normally posted. Maybe more or less would be ideal. I have not studied that.

Katalox Light is similar except that it is coated onto a lighter substrate. It would need about 7 to 8 gpm. I have studied that.

I did not look up the iron breaker III. You might use the search box above for discussions of filox and more.

Prices seem high to me, but you may be in the expensive part of NJ. I am not a pro.

 

[Atomic1]

Iron Breaker III sounds like an epic waste of money to me. Unless you're having iron bacteria growing in all of your fixtures. I would still recommend looking at an RO system for cooking/drinking. Far cheaper and easier to deal with than trying to treat all of the water in the house.

 

[ditttohead]

Actually the iron breaker would likely be a good solution since it reduces iron significantly as well as sediment typically down to the 3-5 micron level. The air regen design is an old design that has proven to be very effective in most low level iron/hydrogen sulfide applications. Buying from a local company also ensures that the system needs to work effectively otherwise it is easy to ask them to take it back. As to the iron bacteria, air regen systems are not usually recommended for that but the iron breaker 3 does have an ozone option which works fairly well as it will sanitize the media when it recharges the air pocket. If iron bacteria is present it is still usually better to go with a more traditional approach.

For the RO, a system that is just a jumble of inline filters, not a big fan. We manufacture a lot of these units but they are certainly not as nice as a RO that has a simple mounting bracket. The bracket allows for mounting the RO to a cabinet wall therefore keeping the RO off the ground. it can also make filter changeouts much simpler since you are not trying to remove tubing from JG fittings every year. Also be aware that most online companies are simply buying the lowest cost components from overseas and slapping some stickers on them. Due to the extremely high cost of water damage, going the DIY route on an RO really requires you to use some common sense. Installing the RO in a location that mitigates water damage, leak detection/shut off devices, pressure regulating, etc. all need to be considered before buying the lowest cost RO from Amazon from some company that will likely be gone in a couple years or change names for the 12 time... I know many of these companies.

 

[Atomic1]

Funny you mention bracketed RO units. I paid big bucks for an aqua cleer system from culligan and it was nothing but problems. Ended up cutting my losses and ditching it after 2 years.

By all means, if the OP wants to drop $3000, go for it. But personally I would try the alternatives which may work just as well. After my experience with Culligan, I am skeptical of advise from people in the business of selling water treatment products.

 

[ditttohead]

I did not recommend a C system. How can you equate all RO's with a bracket to the one you bought? I had a Toyota once that was a lemon therefore all import cars are junk?
Anyway, my point was simple, avoid the online sellers that sell the lowest priced junk, if you want to service it yourself and not have to worry about tube damage and leaking quick connect fittings, get a system with either sumps or quick change filters. I personally recommend USA made QC style units, they are obviously a few bucks more than the cheapest offerings from overseas but they are still reasonable.

 

[tgnj]

Interestingly, I may end up with an RO/DI system at some point in the future for a reef aquarium (I've done this before, in a different house). I know it's an option to use RO for drinking before it gets to the DI, but never seriously considered it before. Plus I thought the iron, even at my low level, would be too hard on the membrane. Thoughts?

 

[ditttohead]

RO for aquariums is a good idea and making the RO work for both drinking and the aquarium is simple. The DI portion, not really necessary but that is a discussion for a different forum as it turns into a weird hot topic every time it is brought up. Low levels of iron in the ferric state tend to not foul the membrane but there are a huge number of factors that need to be considered to make a real recommendation. In general, low pH and low iron... probably ok for a membrane... if we are talking about a residential sized membrane then it really doesn't matter as these membranes are cheap and easily replaced anyway.

 

[Atomic1]

Many RO systems have the option for special media to accommodate iron filtration. The system I mentioned previously has such an option.

 

[ditttohead]

What kind of iron and how much? if it is in the ferric state then a simple sediment filter will suffice. If the iron is in the ferrous state then see my previous post.

 

[wascalwabbitt]

www.ohiopurewaterco.com has some really decent prices. You can get into a sediment/iron filter for around the $950 USD mark depending on media. Imho that Katalox Light is worth the few extra dollars. (I'm not affiliated with Ohio at all, just letting other members know that they are good value for us retail diy type guys)