Softener Drain Questions (almost got it figured out)

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solcalmike

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Hello. I am installing a Fleck 7000 based softener and have a question regarding drains. My softener is being installed on my garage, against an exterior wall. On the opposite side of the wall and about 3' over is a 4" vertical cleanout with a "Contra Costa" valve on on top.

My plan was to tie into the vertical cleanout line with a 4 x 1.5 santee, enter through the stucco wall with 1.5" PVC, run 1.5" PVC horizontally around 3' back to the softener, install a 1.5" p-trap, and then a 2' 1.5" PVC stand pipe. I will run vinyl tubing from the Fleck discharge line to the stand pipe and connect it to the stand pipe with an or something similar. I will maintain a 1/4" per foot of slope on the horizontal runs of 1.5" PVC

Questions:
- Does this seem reasonable?
- Should I run 2" PVC instead of the 1.5"?
- How do I tie the brine tank overflow into the drain?
- Do most people actually connect the overflow?

Thanks all!
 
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Bannerman

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I am not familiar with the Contra Costa valve. What is its purpose?

Is the CC valve part of the clean-out and will it be removed?

If you're replacing the clean-out with the sanitary tee, what will you do for a clean-out?

Is removal of a clean-out permitted by plumbing code?

What is the plumbing code vent requirement for horizontal runs? Since the horizontal run appears to be only 3', I expect it will not require venting but it's best to check.

Since the softener drain is pressurized, it maybe a simpler to run the 1/2" pressurized line to within a short distance near the plumbing stack where the new standpipe and trap can be located.

The max drain flow rate for only a softener using a 10" media tank (1.5 cuft) is typically 2.4 gpm whereas a 12" tank (2 cuft) will be 3-3.5 gpm. A 1.5" gravity drain line should be able to handle that flow rate.

Brine tank overflow would flow by gravity so it needs to be directed to a floor drain or to the exterior. As most brine tanks include a safety float and valve, overflowing rarely if ever occurs so most overflow fittings are not connected to any drain.
 

solcalmike

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Thanks Bannerman.

The CC valve is similar to a "popper". It allows the sewage from the drain to flow out of the cleanout rather than back up into the house if you have a clog. It is installed in place of a cleanout cap. If you need to use the cleanout, you just remove the CC valve (it is a slip fit not cemented in place).

The CC valve will be reinstalled "on top" of the sanitary tee so the cleanout will still be available if needed. That is why I am using a stationary tee instead of just a reducer to transition to 1.5" pipe.

Agree on running the 1/2" flex line vs. 1.5" PVC horizontally. I will stick with the 1.5" line.

No floor drain in the garage. I suppose I could just run 1/2" PVC to the outside and let it drain into my garden if it happens to overflow. I did set the overflow valve correctly.

Still looking for advice (pictures would be great) of how others plumb the drain line

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Bannerman

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From your description of the CC valve operation, it seems the valve is a type of pressure relief device, permitting raw sewage to be discharged out to ... somewhere? As you are located in a warm climate, it seems the discharge could be to the home exterior. As I'm in an area that experiences sub-freezing temperatures during substantial portions of the year, our drain pipes are located indoors so the cleanout ports are screwed in-place and no pressure 'relief device' is utilized on the sewer lines.

If the brine tank did ever overflow (unlikely) onto your garage floor, would that be much of a problem? I expect your garage floor is concrete which likely slopes to the garage door, allowing the discharge and resulting cleanup rinse water to drain to the driveway.

As suggested to another poster, placing an empty 5 gallon bucket under the brine overflow fitting would collect that amount before spilling over onto the floor and would act as a visual indicator that something is amiss. Taking things farther, placing a water sensor in the bucket could set off an alarm to alert you if the sensor is ever wet.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/honeywell%20water%20leak%20detector?NCNI-5
 

ENIGMA-2

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Hello. I am installing a Fleck 7000 based softener and have a question regarding drains. My softener is being installed on my garage, against an exterior wall. On the opposite side of the wall and about 3' over is a 4" vertical cleanout with a "Contra Costa" valve on on top.

My plan was to tie into the vertical cleanout line with this , enter through the stucco wall with 1.5" PVC, run 1.5" PVC horizontally around 3' back to the softener, install a 1.5" p-trap, and then a 2' 1.5" PVC stand pipe.
I don't know if it's code to connect into this clean out line, but if you do, you will need to vent the trap with an approved method. If your in an area that uses the UPC, you will need a vent pipe running either through the roof or sidewall. If your location has adopted the International codes (IRC or IPC) you can get by with an Air Adminance Valve or vent thru roof. The vent is required to prevent the trap from syphoning and allowing sewer gas from entering the structure.

This are alternatives to connecting to the Contra piping. You could drain the waste from the softener into a sjmp, the pump the waste to an existing stack or waste line.

For what your purposing, it would be required to take out a plumbing permit to plumb this. Remember that if you don't get this inspected, you will still be liable for any problems that develop even for years after you sell the home to a future purchaser. As the Contra valve uses mechanical parts, it's usually banned in most locations.
 
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solcalmike

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I think that for now I will just route the brine overflow through the wall and into a patch of dirt.

ENIGMA, thanks for the input about the siphoning of the p-trap and venting. Makes sense. Seems like I should rethink things.

So, lets start from scratch. I have an exterior 4"vertical cleanout on the opposite side of the wall my softener is located. The 4" pipe is cut pretty much flush with the ground and the "Contra Costa" valve is placed on top of it. All other existing connections to the sewer are very difficult to get to. How should I tie into it with minimal modification to my house (cutting roof vents, etc.) I can run the pressurized discharge line through the wall rather than the drain if that helps.

BTW: All of the houses in my tract have the CC valve on them and they were installed when the houses were built so I assume they are still fine to use. Also, I want to do this safely but with minimal impact to the home. If I need to disconnect or remove the softer to sell the home when I move in 30 years, I will do so.
 
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solcalmike

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Reach, thanks for finding something about the CC valve with a diagram . Looks pretty much like my setup. Better explanation than the picture I linked to.

Also, I looked it up and my municipality has adopted the California Plumbing code (based on UPC) without modification.
 
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