Soda Ash Injection & Peroxide

[Traderfjp]

If I inject soda ash and polish the water with a catalytic carbon filter will I still taste the soda ash?

How much typically can you raise the PH with soda sh injection. My water is around 6.0

If I inject a strong solution of peroxide and then feed the water into a 119 gallon pressure tank will the peroxide disinfect my water as well as chlorine?

Will the peroxide mess with the media in a ph neutralizer or carbon filter?

Do I need a water softener for .6 iron level in water.

 

[ditttohead]

What we really need is your complete water test report.

In general soda ash injection does not impart a noticeable taste but excessive injection obviously will. In general... H2o2 is used as an oxidant, bleach is used as a disinfectant. They are interchangeable but the results of using h2o2 for disinfection have typically been less than optimal. A softener may be used for iron reduction but without the water report... Since you have low pH a softener tends to get less fouled with iron so the resin should hold up better in your application than a higher pH water would.

 

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[Traderfjp]

My iron is at .6 ppm, hardness is 18 ppm (slightly hard), PH was 6.3 at lab, 5.5 in field. No pesticides are nitrites, we have some coli form but no Ecoli. I was hoping to just raise the PH with a chemical injector and not have to add a PH neutralizer and water softener. I also hate the smell of chlorine and bleach so I was hoping I didn't have to deal with that too. The water has some manganese and sulfur - smells like rotten eggs.

Thinking: Soda Ash injection then chlorine or peroxide, 120g pressurize tank for contact time, then a sediment filter (Katalox) and a carbon filter.

 

[ditttohead]

I like the idea of a simple soda ash injection and chlorine injection, the tank.. I would go baffled so you get a much better contact time for the coliform issue. I really prefer H2o2 in general but since you have a known coliform issue, unless you can control and kill it with a thorough sanitization of your entire system, H2o2 would not be the preferred chemical. You should also add a redundant UV system to the design.

 

[Reach4]

If you care about the coliform test results, care needs to be taken in
sampling. http://www.ugra.org/pdfs/SamplingHandout.pdf is one description
of a method to avoid contaminating the sample. I think a lot of positive Coliform test results are positive due to sampling. Non-E.coli coliform is generally not disease-causing. It is a sensitive indicator.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing write-up. If you have not sanitized in the last couple of years, or ever, I suggest that for a deep well.

Surface contamination is much less likely with a deep well.

 

[blaze4545]

If you care about the coliform test results, care needs to be taken in
sampling. http://www.ugra.org/pdfs/SamplingHandout.pdf is one description
of a method to avoid contaminating the sample. I think a lot of positive Coliform test results are positive due to sampling. Non-E.coli coliform is generally not disease-causing. It is a sensitive indicator.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing write-up. If you have not sanitized in the last couple of years, or ever, I suggest that for a deep well.

Surface contamination is much less likely with a deep well.

This 100%! A lot of the independent labs up here will write a variable or disclaimer that background coliforms may not properly represent the total coliforms in the water as it maybe causes by improper handling of the sample, whether by the sampler or the lab technician.

E.coli is the more concerning result and is usually related to contamination, such as septic bed issues.

 

[Traderfjp]

Thanks. Great information. I love this forum. I'm new to wells but have been reading a lot. After more research it seems that Katalox light adds hardness to the water and temporarily raises ph which will make it more difficult to get everything dialed in for a while. Plus it needs lots of back washing to get it to normalize. My water is just at the tail end of soft so I was hoping that I wouldn't have to add a water softener that is why I'm shying away from a neutralizer. My PH is 6.3 at the lab but 5,5 in the field. However, I wasn't there so the guy who tested the ph at my house (took it from well head) may have used strips which are subjective. I read that normally if you wait to test a water sample the ph actually gets lower because the water takes in co2. So maybe my PH is not as bad as I thought. I'm doing another well test next week that will be more comprehensive.

If I use say chlorine to sanitize and hydrogen peroxide to oxidize my iron and manganese what would be a good media to filter out the iron and manganese which doesn't require excessive back washing. I read of one guy using centaur carbon (catalytic carbon). Once the iron/manganese is oxidized can I simply use a catalytic carbon filter or do I need a sediment filter first and then a carbon filter to polish the water and improve taste, odor, etc. Any thoughts on PH being different?

 

[ditttohead]

Catalytic carbon can be used, it tends to need a lot more h2o2 to work correctly and will need regular replacement. KL uses very little h2o2 and tends to be a more reliable method of reducing iron but does require a bit more water to backwash. If you are treating for bacteria then just use chlorine, no need to do both. If I'm not mistaken, the chlorine will cause the h2o2 to quickly revert to oxygen, basically killing the h2o2 so it would likely be wasted. Chlorine is a good oxidizer, just not as good as h2o2.

 

[Traderfjp]

I guess I'm trying to figure out if I really need the KL or greensand plus filter or not. I read KL increases the hardness of the water. My water is barley hard so I don't want to fix one problem and create another which would cause my water to increase it's hardness and then I would need a softener. Cost is not the issue here so not trying to save money just to do it the correct way that makes the most sense. So you are saying CC is ok but I would be better off with a KL filter and then CC.

 

[ditttohead]

The KL may cause a temporary increase in hardness, this is fairly normal but it subsides quickly. Lets wait to see the water report, there are simply tooo many variables but with the water report... it should be fairly easy.