Slow Leak at Threaded Water Supply Line Coupling

[Jandrewstein]

We have a small leak at a threaded coupling just after the water meter in a 2" (?) copper supply line. It's a very slow leak. What is involved in the repair? Can the coupling be tightened without first removing and cleaning? Or would it need to be taken apart?

 

[Fitter30]

Pull the meter and the flanges and wire brush h he threads. Use a anaerobic pipe dope and new flange gaskets.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff H Young]

Pull the meter and the flanges and wire brush h he threads. Use a anaerobic pipe dope and new flange gaskets.

Keytite? Trueblue?

 

[Jandrewstein]

Thanks! Sounds reasonable. I'm looking more closely at the entire system and seeing how it was designed for this kind of maintenance. I'm still a bit apprehensive doing it myself since I've not worked with pipes this size, and a little concerned about messing with the meter.

If you pan out there is a bypass around the meter that is has a closed valve with a wire lock on it. Is that intended to be used to maintain water flow while maintenance is being performed? I've never understood the purpose of that loop.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Thanks! Sounds reasonable. I'm looking more closely at the entire system and seeing how it was designed for this kind of maintenance. I'm still a bit apprehensive doing it myself since I've not worked with pipes this size, and a little concerned about messing with the meter.

If you pan out there is a bypass around the meter that is has a closed valve with a wire lock on it. Is that intended to be used to maintain water flow while maintenance is being performed? I've never understood the purpose of that loop.

I dont see valve on the loop and only see one side. but it very well could be a bypass you said it has a lock presumably water department. If those nipples are not brass I would replace them . Since there is a lock on it I guess youll need to check with them about opening lock. all places work differantly they might charge to come remove lock and to return and put back. Ive seen a lot of posts on here where they charge to turn water off. I turn it off myself in every city I work in here.

 

[Jandrewstein]

Here's a better photo:


fast photo

The lock is more of a glorified zip tie. I'm not sure if the city has to be the one to remove it or not.

 

[Reach4]

The lock is more of a glorified zip tie. I'm not sure if the city has to be the one to remove it or not.

You don't have to remove it, if you are willing to turn off the water while the work is done.

It seems it would be hard to get the distance between flanges just right as you tighten the fittings, or better yet, replace those steel nipples with brass.

 

[Fitter30]

The valves on either side of meter are gate valves. For a positive shut off open and close the valves a few times to clean any built up where the bottom of the gate stops. Spray every thread with penetrating oil. If the space between flanges ends up being to wide can use a thicker gasket or a flange spacer check with a plumbing supply house for both.

 

[Dj2]

Why are there galvanized parts?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Its Galvie because thats what somebody used. cant worry about that , coulda forgot nipples and went to closest hardware store or ordered brass and gal came with delivery endless reasons. not because someone thought it was the best product.
I would pull it appart by the unions measure acrros from face to face and as I was rebuilding check measurement . pick up 2 sets of gaskets and double up if I thought needed (if not needed hang spare on a nail from wall for future use). Plus follow fitter 30 good advice.
As for the shut down do it whatever way you choose but I would take picture of meter reading befor and after and use the bypass. It might be right might be wrong but Id rather ask for forgiviness than ask for permision. Dont know what kind of building it is but if its just a home thell never do anything but squalk. Sure you could use the gate valves and just turn off all water but why bother? got bypass Id use it