Sloping of Linear drain

[Infinitysa]

I bought an inexpensive linear drain online that has the drain outlet at one end. The trough of the drain has a very very slight slope, such that when perfectly level, a small amount of water remains in the trough through surface tension.

Since the outlet is 1.5 inches from one end, I could install the drain sloped toward the outlet. Would this be a good idea? It will still hold water in the small space past the drain outlet, but the majority will drain better. Some experimenting shows that about 1/8” per foot helps quite a bit.

Manufacturers instructions just specify to level the drain, but they are pretty basic, so I am wondering if anyone has an opinion on the matter.

Thanks.

 

[Jadnashua]

It might be tough to get the tile installed properly in plane if one end of the drain was raised. I've only played with a couple of linear drains, and am not familiar with them much. I do know that, at least from what I've seen, none of the (quality) suppliers I've dealt with make an inexpensive linear drain. On many of those drains, the grate is designed to be fairly easily removed so you can clean things underneath periodically. Most of them do have some provision to get the grate height proper for varying thickness of tile, so you may be able to do it fairly easily...how are you planning on waterproofing the pan and how are you tying that to the drain?

People that do deal with showers and linear drains much more frequently than here can be found at www.johnbridge.com, where they specialize in tiling things, and showers are a big portion of that.

 

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[Infinitysa]

I plan on using a PVC pan liner into a standard 3 part drain. Instead of screwing the top part into the drain, an adapter fits into the drain and the linear drain fits into the adapter.

 

[Jadnashua]

Does that adapter preserve the functionality of the weepholes? If not, you're asking for problems down the line. Personally, I much prefer a surface applied sheet membrane tiled directly into the top of the linear drain. Neither the tile nor grout is waterproofing, so it is expected that the top setting mudbed will get wet. That moisture must go somewhere, and the designed path is to the drain via weepholes. A surface applied mudbed is also simpler, since there's only one mudbed to install, then the tileable liner, then the tile. Less floor buildup, too, so stepping in/out of the shower has less elevation difference and you can use a lower curb while still achieving the needed containment.

How does the adapter seal to the linear drain?

 

[Infinitysa]

the adapter is a rubber collar bushing that fits between the drainpipe of the drain and the drain assembly that consists of the mounted bottom and the bolt on flange. It directs the water into the drain. It does not interfere with the weep holes and seems like it would be no worse than the standard threaded drain top.

I agree that a drain with an integral membrane would be nice for multiple reasons, but the cost would jump from under $100 to 700-800, maybe more. I do realize that water will inevitably find its way between the drain top and the sand mix, but that would seem to be true of any drain installed with a standard pvc liner underneath, linear or not. Ultimately, I must rely on the PVC liner to do its job.

If I went with, say, the kerdi drain that has an integral apron, I would still worry about the bond between apron and kerdi membrane eventually failing, or even the membrane to stainless steel bond failing. With the PVC liner, the only bind that can fail is between the liner and the drain, which I have more confidence in.

After some experimentation, if I tilt the drain about 1/16-3/32" per foot, it drains quite well. It have adjustable feet, so I think I can get it set just right before mudding into place. I will stick to smaller tiles, as I am a diyer and don't want to get in over my head by combining non flat surfaces and bigger tiles.