Slip joint on shower drain keeps leaking! Help!

[mattg83]

So I've recently renovated the bathroom. Including new steel tub, pluming, drains, floor, walls, etc. Now I'm trying to hook up the drain before going any further. I bought a standard pvc kit with a trip lever.

My problem is that when I connect the drain shoe to the t-connector via slip joint - it keeps leaking. I've tried it 3 seperate times.

1st time - 3 times around with teflon tape and twisted it hard as I could by hand.
2nd time - 4-5 times around
3rd time 5-6 times around w/ teflon tape and pipedope and pieced together before putting under tub (because its hard to tighten once its in there) twisted as tight as I could go. Even put the wrench on it.

The 3rd time it leaked less however there is still a leak. I'm wondering show I not use the teflon tape and just use the pvc fittings and wrench them as tight as possible?

Or should I move on to a brass piece system where you don't have the slip joint.

 

[hj]

ALL brass systems have, and need, slip joints, otherwise how would you connect them together. You do NOT need teflon tape, (it does NOT help, but does not create a problem either), but you do need the slip joint washers, and they have to be positioned properly. Your description implies that you either left them out or have them in reversed.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[mattg83]

HJ thanks for the response. So I'll give it another go with my PVC system. So for the slip joints - since both types (brass and pvc) have them does one have a better reputation? I'm pretty sure I have the washers going in the right way. On all my other joints (4 other pvc washer) haven't had any problems. Also because I have tried to use the same washer and threaded connection multiple times could I have caused some damage - or stressed the joint to the point where it would no longer seal? I can get a new washer and nut and try again.

Finally when I tighten the nut - I go as much as I can with my hand, do I need to tighten it much more with my channel locks?

Thanks!

 

[Gary Swart]

Yes, they need to be a bit more than hand tight. Use Channel Lock pliers and snug the joints up maybe 1/4 turn or so.

 

[hj]

You will know when they are tight enough because they will not turn any further.

 

[mattg83]

Thanks for the help everybody - I dissassembled the joint, bought a new nut and washer and then reassembled with a hand tighten and then another quarter turn with the channel locks and presto - no more leak!

 

[Jadnashua]

Some of the cone washers supplied are poorly made with mold lines and extra bits not trimmed off well. Those can be a pain to get to seal.