Skid Marks on new toilet. Can anything be done about this?!

[Plan9]

So I got one of these new 1.28 gpf low-flush toilets; an American Standard "Cadet 3 FloWise standard height elongated (10" rough-in)". My previous one was a nice big 13L Crane toilet. Ok, the Crane would on a rare occasion, leave unsightly 'skid marks' on the sides of the bowl. But this Cadet is doing this almost every time! What's even more frightening, is it even leaves traces at the bottom of the bowl, under the water! Worse, it often does not matter how many times I flush, the skid marks remain both on the sides, and at the bottom of the bowl! I don't want to have to use a toilet brush every time I go potty! That too is unappealing, not to mention inconvenient.

It's even more disappointing, because I specifically got this model due to an advertised feature called "PowerWash Rinse", that's supposed to pressure-wash the sides of the bowl after every flush. And also the "Everclean" surface, impregnated with... silver nano particles? (I don't know, they don't go into details). It's supposed to make the surface more slippery or something.

The toilet is 3 days old, so it's not a cleaning issue. And before anyone asks, the water level in the tank is at the very top of the fill tube (by default). So, much as I'd like to get more water in the bowl, I can't do it by adjusting the FluidMaster 540. I'm weary about using toilet tank cleaners, as I don't want to risk damaging the porcelain over time. And I'm not about to change my diet to accommodate a toilet, either!

It's also too late to change toilets now. So is there anything I can do to resolve this problem?

 

[Terry]

3.434 GPF and now 1.28 GPF
Yes, there will be more cleaning. However, the first thing with a new toilet is to take some dishwashing detergent, something like Dawn, and wash the bowl thoroughly first to get all of the oils and manufacturing dirt off. It's new, but giving it a first cleaning can help.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Plan9]

Well, that's not difficult, so I'll give that a try, thanks. But ideally, I would like to get more water in the bowl, it looks anemic to what I'm used to. Any ways to hack the fill tube by lengthening it somehow, thus getting more water in the tank, and hence, the bowl? The only thing I found was this fill tube extender product on Amazon, but it's no longer available.

 

[WorthFlorida]

These new toilets the bowl trap is designed so you cannot add more water. Just be sure the fill tube is positioned to dump the water inside the overflow but not inside it below the water level of the tank. Also check that the fill tube doesn't have a device to pinch off the line for less water to enter the bowl. Replacement flush valve kits may have them but doubtful a new toilet will. This toilet is spec'd with a fluidmaster 400A flush valve that does not have a water saver pinch device.

With 1.28 gallon flush, the tank may only empty part way and it allows for a fast refill but less water to fill the bowl. On a flush hold the flush lever down until the tank is nearly empty. This will allow a longer fill time and look if more water ends up in the bowl. You can take a pail of water and slowly add it to the bowl too see how high the water level can get before making any adjustments.

I googled "nuflush extension tubes" and there are others on the market. What might be a problem is the diameter of the fill tube between HE brands could be slightly different. This kit comes with silicon. maybe to fill in the gaps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Toilet-f...372329230839?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

 

[Plan9]

So I pour about 4 gallons of water slowly in the bowl, and the level seemed to rise by maybe 1cm or so, but I'm not even sure it did! It does appear to have a Fluidmaster 400A fill valve (it is for all intents and purposes, the same Cadet Pro in your photo). There is some water that always collects at the top of this valve (see pic), which is coming from under the cap at the top, during the flush. Not sure if this is normal or could be an impediment.

But as can be seen in the other photo, I have quite some room before the water level reaches the tank handle. Google helped me find where they were keeping those "NuFlush extension tubes". I can keep the handle depressed after a flush, but it has pretty much no impact on removing the residue on the bowl interior. I looked, and no more water ends up in the bowl, doing that. The tank does not fully empty. So I'm thinking having more water in the tank by extending the height of the overflow pipe will at least create a more powerful flush, that may help wash it away.

UPDATE: Nuts. I just tried adjusting one of these Fluidmaster 400a's for the first time.... The adjustment screw is not variable.... it can only be increased or decreased in segments that "click" with each turn. Once I go clockwise to increase the water level, it stops; giving resistance. I don't think I can screw it any further without breaking something. And where it stops puts the water level only a tiny bit higher, to the very top of the overflow tube. There goes my brilliant idea to (literally) hack a vacuum cleaner extension and....

 

[Reach4]

I just tried adjusting one of these Fluidmaster 400a's for the first time.... The adjustment screw is not variable.... it can only be increased or decreased in segments that "click" with each turn. Once I go clockwise to increase the water level, it stops; giving resistance. I don't think I can screw it any further without breaking something.

https://api.ferguson.com/dar-step-s...951624&USE_TYPE=INSTALLATION&PRODUCT_ID=36781

There are two adjustments. You can raise and lower the valve as a course adjustment, and the screw you have been turning is more of a fine tuning.

You may get more flush water by adjusting or modifying the flapper or tower. Some are adjustable.

 

[Plan9]

Got it, thanks. I tried like crazy to raise the water level. I wanted to raise it so where it fills the inside of the overflow tube to the very top.... just above the level of water in the tank, as suggested here. But the water always stops at the very top of the overflow tube, going no higher. Without removing the fill valve from the tank, I twisted the grey collar on the Fluidmaster counter-clock and up as much as I could. It moves, but I can turn it for 3 hours, and once reassembled, the valve assembly doesn't really look like it is sitting any higher. (I don't want to just 'cheat' and pull upward on the grey collar, as I'm afraid I'll break it). As far as I can tell, it is not made to go any higher in this toilet.

Well, it's a bit too soon to tell, but the suggestion of cleaning the bowl with soap does seem to have helped, so there's that! Thanks to all.