Sketch Up Drawing

[nrphillip2]

Last time I asked for help I had a crappy drawing that didn't look good. I've taken the time to really draw this thing out now and would appreciate your feedback.

Project/History
Bought house 2 years ago. Want to put in a shower in the downstairs basement so I'm breaking into the wall of the bedroom next to it to do so.

Current Plumbing (Sub-Par)

• There is a toilet where I'm planning on putting the vanity in the down stairs bathroom.
  
• There is a lavatory where I'm planning on putting the shower in the down stairs bathroom.
  
• The kitchen drain continues through the middle of the bathroom on the same axis and joins in at the pipe between the WC from upstairs and the elbow where it goes from horizontal to vertical.
• The shower and tub from upstairs join are joined in about the same location but they are using a sani-t to join the kitchen drain and continue to the main drain as mentioned above

Questions I Have
1) Any one see any issues with the pink venting?
2) Any one see any issues with the placement of the toilet and the venting scheme?
3) Any one see any issues with the white pipes?
4) Any one see any issues with the tub from upstairs joining the the kitchen drain?
5) Is there any other way I can do the vent for the toilet (without wet venting) that would hide it in the wall as opposed to me having to build something over top the 45 degree angled pipe coming out of the cement floor?

APPENDIX:

• I've measured all of the pipes to ensure they will be the correct diameter based on the DFU attached to each according to the IPC which is what West Des Moines has adopted.
  
• Distance from basement shower drain center to toilet flange center is 96" (8ft)
• Distance from basement shower drain to WYE w/eighth off the vanity is 68" (5.7 ft)
  
• Distance of basement toilet to DOUBLE WYE w/eighth is 31" (2.6 ft)

From Street View shown below:

 

[nrphillip2]

33 people looked at this and not a single comment? Awesome it must be good enough then.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[krik]

Although I'm not a plumber, I'll give it a whirl. Have you considered eliminating the 90 on the toilet drain, moving "up" the double wye, and angling into the that at 45? this would bring a vertical dry vent connection much closer to where you now have the vertical pink vent. You'll need to tie that in with a wye (right now it shows a tee, which is incorrect), so it could be a "bulky" thing sticking out as you've drawn it right now, and you probably have more horizontal change than needed. Same for the lav, btw, where you might also go under an angle from wall and eliminate that 90.

Can't tell from the drawing how much underfloor depth you have, so it's hard to imagine what other changes are easy. And from the drawing it's also not clear if you can get enough clearance from the side of the toilet. Also, where's the door going to be? I'd probably try wet venting that toilet (maybe flip the toilet and shower side to make it easier to stay within allowable lengths). And finally, if all white pipe is new, you'll need to (unless I'm reading things wrong) find a way to get a cleanout somewhere for that long horizontal run from the "right wall" into the new double wye.

Anyway, just a DIYers view for what it's worth

 

[hj]

It's a very "complicated" system but without being there it is difficult to tell how it could be improved and simplified. One reason being that we do not know where the interior walls are. The connection between the blue tub and sink with the white drain does look like it is improper, but since one overlays the other it is hard to tell.

 

[nrphillip2]

Have you considered eliminating the 90 on the toilet drain, moving "up" the double wye, and angling into the that at 45? this would bring a vertical dry vent connection much closer to where you now have the vertical pink vent. You'll need to tie that in with a wye (right now it shows a tee, which is incorrect), so it could be a "bulky" thing sticking out as you've drawn it right now, and you probably have more horizontal change than needed.

Excellent point! That would solve some of the problems of the pipe coming up preemptively out of the concrete pad which is only 3" think from what I can gather from breaking it up. I can hide that with another makeshift wall or shelf or something easily enough.

However, I do think that a sani-t would be acceptable for the vent and I wouldn't need a wye or combo since it is a vent only and no water is coming down it. See images below for my reference to this taken out of a plumbing book.

Same for the lav, btw, where you might also go under an angle from wall and eliminate that 90.

Another valid point I'll make that change.

And from the drawing it's also not clear if you can get enough clearance from the side of the toilet. Also, where's the door going to be? I'd probably try wet venting that toilet (maybe flip the toilet and shower side to make it easier to stay within allowable lengths).

Door is to the right of the vertical blue pipe in the labeled picture and will look directly in on the lavatory. It will swing into the hallway.

And finally, if all white pipe is new, you'll need to (unless I'm reading things wrong) find a way to get a cleanout somewhere for that long horizontal run from the "right wall" into the new double wye.

There is a cleanout on the backside of the fitting where it goes through the subfloor above the kitchen drain. I can put another cleanout where it goes from vertical to horizontal beneath the concrete and have that sitting in an acces panel in the wall which just looks into a utility room. Would I need the second cleanout point though?

Thanks Krik! All in all very helpful!

 

[nrphillip2]

It's a very "complicated" system but without being there it is difficult to tell how it could be improved and simplified. One reason being that we do not know where the interior walls are. The connection between the blue tub and sink with the white drain does look like it is improper, but since one overlays the other it is hard to tell.

I didn't want to overload you guys with information. There is a vent that the tub/shower has going through the roof separate from the main vent. I can't see why it wouldn't be allowed though since everything is properly vented. If it helps the floor and interior of the bathroom is in green and the 3.5" walls are outlined. in most spots. The only wall not outlined would be the stub of a wall concealing the BLUE pipe coming from upstairs.

It is very complicated. I've probably spent over 80 hours trying to design and research this bathroom but being able to do everything and to code without hiring a professional is priceless. Breaking concrete and gutting a bathroom is a satisfying feeling I can't wait to get it done and know it was done exactly as I wanted. I will post pictures on completion for what its worth.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Your drawings are much better than most of the chicken scratching that gets posted here. Looks like you are following the rules quite well, though I'm still rubbing my chin a bit. It's a tough call, and fortunately someone else's call.

 

[nrphillip2]

Your drawings are much better than most of the chicken scratching that gets posted here. Looks like you are following the rules quite well, though I'm still rubbing my chin a bit. It's a tough call, and fortunately someone else's call.

Thank you! It means a lot to me when people like you guys give free advice so I want to do as much of the leg work as possible.

I'm going to be drawing up these plans and filing for a permit tomorrow. Just need to figure out how to draw them for the city inspector now.

 

[hj]

IF the tub drops into the vertical line "using two elbows", and the kitchen connects to the vertical line, the way it appears to, then it is incorrect, period, end of story.

 

[krik]

However, I do think that a sani-t would be acceptable for the vent and I wouldn't need a wye or combo since it is a vent only and no water is coming down it. See images below for my reference to this taken out of a plumbing book.
View attachment 27781

Look at figure 27 again. It says no sanitees on their back. 45 deg is still on its back. It's a bit more complicated than just that, actually, but in your case you definitely need a wye + 45 or a combo fitting to attach the vent. I had to undo two of those mistakes in my first project.

 

[nrphillip2]

Look at figure 27 again. It says no sanitees on their back.

It says on back. Not on their or its back. Implying as I read it that its on the back of the trap. However, not worth arguing over if it cost me $3 more I could care less at this point. Did an inspector make you rip it out?

hJ. I see what you're saying now. Of course I'm not using two 90s to make a p trap. It will be proper but I couldn't get a model for a trap.

Regarding the sink line dumping in to the verticle. How would you do it? I don't understand.

 

[hj]

quote; Of course I'm not using two 90s to make a p trap.

I am NOT referring to the 90s that make a "P" trap, I mean the two 90s AFTER it that seem to make an "S" trap going down to the tee for the sink.

 

[MrStop]

Sorry, I can't help you with your question. However, I have a question as another sketchup user, did you make all of your DWV components or did you find them in the warehouse?