Single 2nd Floor BaseRay Baseboard not heating

[JCElliot]

I have a problem eerily similar to Theodore from this thread.

This is a 2 story single-family home in New England with a basement built in 1960. Primary source of heat in the house is BaseRay baseboards throughout the first and second floors and radiators in the basement. Since we moved in there has been a single baseboard in one of the 2nd floor bedrooms that does not work. It's completely cold to the touch throughout the run no matter how high I crank the heat. The run itself is about 15ft long and wraps around the corner of the room (link to images at the end).

All the baseboards are fed off a split loop system in the basement very similar to whats shown here. Though the direction of flow in my system is reversed. Each baseboard/radiator has regular T-fittings on the supply side, and TACO directional T-fittings on the return. There are no check or cutoff valves on the supply or return lines for any of the baseboards.

At first I thought it was trapped air. But I bled the line and immediately got clear cold water, no air. I drained about a quart of water out of the line through the bleed valve without observing any pressure change. But the water did start to warm up to a bit over 100degF. And the baseboard began to heat on the return (bleeder) side - indicating to me I was getting backflow from the return line. There is what I believed to be a supply valve on the end of the baseboard opposite the bleed valve. I now know it is not a valve... I backed the nut on the top all the way out and got sprayed in the face for my trouble. Picture of the fitting in the link below. any idea what the purpose of this is? All the other baseboards and radiators in my house have valves on the inlet.

Honestly at a loss what to do next. is it possible there's a clog in the baseboard itself?

Having issues attaching the images so linking them

 

[Fitter30]

The valve could be closed. When you open a bleed valve it creates a flow and can pull water from either side. Never have I've seen a valve like that.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[cdherman]

Well, I don't know if the OP is coming back, but that rusted up pin (maybe) sticking out of the inlet valve sure looks like it might be the valve end of a thermostatic valve/head setup where someone removed the therm head. Those valves have a spring in them and when the head is removed they default to closed. I googled BaseRay Thermostatic valve and did not find any pics however. But that don't mean it wasn't made by someone else.

That valve looks trashed in any case. If the OP wanders back, I'd have a proficient plumber or DIYer put a new balancing valve in -- in the Summer!!!!!

 

[Fitter30]

Well, I don't know if the OP is coming back, but that rusted up pin (maybe) sticking out of the inlet valve sure looks like it might be the valve end of a thermostatic valve/head setup where someone removed the therm head. Those valves have a spring in them and when the head is removed they default to closed. I googled BaseRay Thermostatic valve and did not find any pics however. But that don't mean it wasn't made by someone else.

That valve looks trashed in any case. If the OP wanders back, I'd have a proficient plumber or DIYer put a new balancing

Danfoss thermostatic valves have been around forever. Have seen other valves made in China that have electronic heads. Need to look at the measurements and compare them. One tool you will need is a spud wrench for the radiator side.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-RVSW-2-Radiator-Valve-Spud-Wrench?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_Heating&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_Heating_X_SSC_ClassB/C&utm_campaignid=21633352521&utm_adgroupid=167295572075&utm_targetid=aud-754990415661:pla-2352613557038&utm_product_id=RVSW-2&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=Heating&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIstnI8_2yiwMVhUT_AR2KWSw8EAQYASABEgL09_D_BwE

 

[John Gayewski]

I doubt that is a valve and instead an old bleeder meant for letting out air.

A monoflow system needs to be specifically designed and sized for your system. I wonder if this baseboard heater was retrofited during a remodel or replsced/added onto at one point.

Adding a ball valve between the monoflow tees can give you a way to steer the water up to the emitter while letting some pass by. You should try adding a valve and driving the water through it heats it up. If not you could be plugged up with gunk.

Gunk should not build up in your system. If there's gunk you need a microbubble air seperater and you need to add an oxygen scavenger into your boiler water.