Shower leak problem

[KineticoUser]

I'll add this test when I work on this next week. Thank you.

 

[KineticoUser]

The valve and hot and cold lines don't leak. The tub spout doesn't leak. The overflow doesn't leak. The drain doesn't leak. Now we get to the actual leak. When I spray the hand held shower head on the valve, that is what leaks. I put electrician's tape around the outside, to see if water is coming through there, but it still leaks. Apparently, there is a gasket under that plate that needs to be replaced. I don't know the manufacturer. Can anyone identify this unit, so I can buy what is needed? Should I just get the gasket, or should I rebuild the entire valve?

 

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[Jeff H Young]

because I cant see the handheld are you saying when the diverter is pulled up water flows up to shower head where another diverter is ? or screwed on the end of the shower arm is no head just a adapter for a hand held? your complaint was a leak coming out on the cieling below? whats putting tape around a hose got to do with any of this? Or its possible when the duverter is tripped water gets oushed up a pipe from the vaolve to a fitting shower arm screws to any of those fittings can leak but most common is the theads inside wall at shower arm. remove all the plates at the valve and see if its leaking there or above, youcould remove shower arm check re dope and reinstall kids swinging like monkeys in there who knows?

 

[KineticoUser]

Apparently I wasn't clear. Water sprayed during a shower is entering the single handle valve and dripping down to the floor below. Everything else checks out fine. Only when water hits this valve is there any leak. If you want to see the handheld, which isn't really related to this problem, you can see it on my original post. I didn't put any tape around any hose. I put it around the valve plate, just in case water might have sprayed behind the plate, but that made no difference, so the water is entering around the valve handle itself. Apparently, there is a gasket between the plate and the valve that is bad or missing, yet I can't identify the manufacturer of the valve to order a replacement. Can I get help with identification?

 

[KineticoUser]

OK, I identified the valve. It is a Moen Adler 82603. According to Moen, it isn't designed to be water tight, and there is no gasket to prevent water infiltration. I'm thinking of putting a rubber seal between the handle and the escutcheon plate. It may not eliminate direct water spray leaks, but it will reduce the likelihood of leaks. Does anyone have any thoughts on this fix? This is the only place where water is getting behind the wall.

 

[Jeff H Young]

ok ill belive you im not there caulk around the trim thats entirely possible we thought you sealed all that off with tape ?
anyway case is solved fix the hose and caulk at least you were able to solve this yourself

 

[KineticoUser]

There is no hose, and caulking addressed the outside, where no leaks exist. Moen claims these faucets were not designed to prevent water getting into the wall. I'm looking for a way to get around the design of the faucet and limit water splashing into the wall.

 

[Jeff H Young]

they are all designed to keep water out of the wall to a certain degree mayby buy new trim

 

[KineticoUser]

Moen claims this faucet isn't designed to keep water out.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I put the same valves in on a house and i never got a call about leak

 

[KineticoUser]

I'll tear it apart next week and find a way to stop the problem.

 

[GReynolds929]

We usually clear caulk around the faceplate on the repair plate, might not hurt to caulk around the stop tube also. When new the trim comes with a foam gasket on the back of the faceplate perimeter and at the stop tube. I always caulk them, even when new.

 

[KineticoUser]

According to the parts diagram, and Moen tech support, it doesn't come with a foam gasket. Moen Adler 82603 Parts
Is it better to caulk or use plumber's putty? What caulk do you recommend?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Ive never caulked around the handle nor had a problem there . some have a foam gasket that seal the hole in the plate and the tubular escutcheon it would glue on the plate in a way that would cause slight compression when slipped over the valve

 

[GReynolds929]

According to the parts diagram, and Moen tech support, it doesn't come with a foam gasket. Moen Adler 82603 Parts
Is it better to caulk or use plumber's putty? What caulk do you recommend?

We use polyseamseal, it's made by loctite. Needs 24 hours to cure before being waterproof. So far it's my preferred caulk.

 

[KineticoUser]

Polyseamseal is great at holding, but I'm looking for something that will keep water out but be easy to remove if need be in the future.

 

[GReynolds929]

Polyseamseal is great at holding, but I'm looking for something that will keep water out but be easy to remove if need be in the future.

You just described polyseamseal. Link

 

[KineticoUser]

I haven't found Polyseamseal to be easy to remove once fully cured.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

As an alternative to their lack of foam behind the faceplate, I might suggest finding some foam backer rod that you could glue to the back side of the faceplate. Find a diameter that is just wider than the gap between the faceplate and the wall. Install it from the bottom around the top and back to the bottom, leaving a small gap at the bottom.

Its basically the same or better than what they would have installed at the factory.

M-D Building Products 20 ft. Gray Foam Backer Rod for Medium Gaps and Joints 71480 - The Home Depot

The M-D Backer Rod provides a base for caulking to prevent caulk waste in deeper, larger gaps or joints. Backer rod can also fill gaps to protect the home against drafts, moisture, dust and insects. Can

www.homedepot.com

 

[KineticoUser]

Thank you for the suggestion. When I tear it apart, I'll explore to see how the water is infiltrating.