shower drain question

[Idoc4u]

In a concrete floor, I have roughed in a 2" riser for a shower drain. However, I believe I may have made the following mistake.

When I roughed in the trap and riser, I did NOT leave a space around the 2" riser. In other words, the concrete I poured is up to and around the riser. The 2" PVC riser sticks up about 2" from the floor.

In order to attach an 828 series Sioux Chief drain, it looks like I need to chisel concrete out from around the riser to push the drain and gasket around the riser and down into the slab.

The "height" of the Sioux Chief drain is 2", and from the concrete slab floor to the shower floor through the drain opening is about 1".

Will I need to create space around the riser to attach the drain, or will there be enough space between my shower receptor and floor to accommodate the drain assembly so that the receptor bottom rests on the floor?

I thought it is proper to leave the riser about 2" up from the floor when roughing in, but now I'm confused. The drain body and locknut look like they would raise the shower floor when attached and pushed down over the riser.

If all these words don't make sense, let me know and I'll send photos.

Thanks for assistance and clarification on drain installation.

 

[Jadnashua]

WHen constructing a traditional tiled shower pan, it consists of five layers: preslope, liner, setting bed, thinset, tile. Over a concrete slab, the preslope can taper to essentially zero thickness at the drain (it needs to be about 1-1/4" or more over a wooden subfloor). A setting bed needs to be about 1-1/4" thick as well. Then take into account the thickness of the tile you are planning. That will give you a ballpark idea of the height of the drain. I'm assuming that that is a clamping drain to hold the liner. That clamping area needs to be at the height of the preslope since you want the liner to slope to the drain without sags or dips in it so any moisture that accumulates can drain out the weep holes in the drain.

You may want to check out the 'Liberry' on www.johnbridge.com Tile Your World website. They specialize on tiling stuff, and have lots of pros that do this sort of thing every day.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Just knock out enough concrete so the drain can be fitted to the pan.

Normally we block out to give enough space for the drain to recess into the floor.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

An angle grinder with a diamond blade does quick work of trimming out a little concrete.

 

[Idoc4u]

Thanks for the advice, guys!

 

[hj]

With the riser there, the concete around it will break out very easily and quickly with a hammer and chisel.

 

[turkeyvulture]

Brass Drain

There's a brass drain that takes up less space than the black ABS one, so you won't have to chip out so much concrete. I found that out when my shower pan drain ended up next to an I-joist. I minimized how much of the joist flange I had to remove my using the brass drain. Home Depot etc. doesn't have them-- you have to go to a "real" building supply store. And no, people, I didn't ruin the joist.