Shower drain help needed

[Jimbo]

In your last picture, 90 #1 is copper, 90 #2 is part of the P-trap and appears to be ABS. #3 appears to be an 1/8 or 1/16 bend to line up the drain.

In the previous picture, I believe the line labeled #1 is a sweat joint where the copper female adapter ( the piece just to the right of that line) is joined to the copper 90. I would not cut any copper.

The piece labeled 90 #2 in your final diagram, if that is plastic as it appears, just cut right thru it. The remaining piece on the left will unscrew from the copper, and all the stuff on the right just goes away. Get a handful of assorted ABS traps and bends and maybe a foot of pipe, and start building.
The first piece will be a new male adapter to connect to the copper, and the final pieces will be chosen to line up with the tile drain flange you need.

 

[Kristi]

the 1st one, Pete... I didn't like the look of that when I saw it either...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Psal2]

In your last picture, 90 #1 is copper, 90 #2 is part of the P-trap and appears to be ABS. #3 appears to be an 1/8 or 1/16 bend to line up the drain.

In the previous picture, I believe the line labeled #1 is a sweat joint where the copper female adapter ( the piece just to the right of that line) is joined to the copper 90. I would not cut any copper.

The piece labeled 90 #2 in your final diagram, if that is plastic as it appears, just cut right thru it. The remaining piece on the left will unscrew from the copper, and all the stuff on the right just goes away. Get a handful of assorted ABS traps and bends and maybe a foot of pipe, and start building.
The first piece will be a new male adapter to connect to the copper, and the final pieces will be chosen to line up with the tile drain flange you need.

This is all metal in here. No plastic. The copper 90 to the left of #1 is a female on both ends, then to the right is a male connector and then another femaile leading to the trap. And they are all sweat joints. The only threads I see are just below where the drain is connected.

 

[Psal2]

the 1st one, Pete... I didn't like the look of that when I saw it either...

Why? Because of the 2 90 degree turns? Jimbo says not to cut the copper, I think if I take some steel wool to the trap, I would find that it is copper too. I only tapped the metal with a screw driver but all parts had a similar sound. Either way, it is not plastic so I am going to either be cutting copper or some type of metal (galvanized steel?).

So should I leave the 90 in or cut back below the last female coupling away from the trap. The floor joist go about 4 more inches back from here and it appears that the drain pipe goes throught the joist to under the bathroom floor, probably to the toilet area. Someone else suggested I take out the copper to the stack and replace it with PVC. I assume the stack is near the toilet?

I didn't intend to take up that flooring.

Suggestions?

 

[TheZster]

I agree with Terry - which is more or less where we were going originally.

On your last photo.... take out "everything", including elbow number 1, - That's elbow 1, 2, the trap, 3, and the drain. This will leave you with the 2 inch pipe only (coming in on the left side of the photo).

Attach a "mission coupling" with SS cover - essentially a flexible pipe coupling with a protective metal cover and two hose clamps - to the copper pipe, and come out of it with PVC. At this point, you'll have a PVC "beginning" pointing North in your photo. Attach a 45 degree elbow, heading to the right - towards the original drain....... construct a trap - finishing up with a drain - which should be included in your shower kit.

 

[Psal2]

Pretty big pipe to cut. Reciprocating saw?

 

[TheZster]

Copper is soft.. recip saws tend to make pretty rough cuts... you want as smooth a finish as you can get. (hack saw blade - if space doesn't permit - use a blade only) Clean up the burrs well.

 

[Psal2]

Gotcha. I think I can get a blade there.

 

[Jimbo]

Sorry, I guess it was wishful thinking on my part that the "hard" part of all this was already plastic! Given that, the explanations others have already provided should give you the idea of where to go on this.

 

[Psal2]

Okay, let's say I get adventurous and decide to cut below the left 90 degree elbow. And let's say I decide to sweat a piece on that has a female adapter. A couple of questions.

1. That would be a better connection then the coupling, wouldn't it or doesn't it matter?

2. Will the female adapter work on a PVC of the same size (I think yes) and would it need some type of teflon tape or pipe dope to ensure that it doesn't leak?

3. Just in case...where do you find flame retardant blankets that can be laid under the joint (between joint and family room ceiling)? Or can I use another material?

 

[TheZster]

You're killin me...

Don't get adventurous. This project is not the time to learn how to sweat joints. Joints "not under pressure" are close to impossible to check for leaks... until down the road when your floor rots.

Terry's suggestions hold serious merit. The flexible coupling will last longer than you or I will live... and won't leak if installed carefully.

Your term "below the first 90" is vague. Do you mean before it or after it? If, for some reason, you need to keep the first 90 (something I can't see in the photo for instance).... attach the coupling past it.. and rebuild. His suggestions eliminated a 90degree bend that makes cleaning lines difficult. Running the 45 to the trap and then the drain allows a snake much easier access to the entire run should your wife's hair clog plugs things up.

Always use teflon tape or dope on plumbing threads.

 

[Psal2]

Okay, you won't be able to blame me. Don't want to be know as the guy who kilt thezster, no sir...

I promise not to even purchase a torch let alone use one. Like I said this is a weekend project only and I am taking my time. I will post back after I cut and use a mission coupling as Terry suggested.

Appreciate the advice.

 

[TheZster]

Thanks... now I won't have to explain the smoke coming out of my ears to my wife...

You've got a good plan... take your time... have your materials ready before Saturday.... Shouldn't take you more than an hour or so to be ready for your shower. Use care when glueing your PVC... once set - it won't ever move again...

 

[Psal2]

I was planning on dry fitting everything so that it is in the right place, then using a marker to make a connecting/lining up line on each piece. Then glue. Where threads are involved, only pipe dope, right?

 

[TheZster]

or teflon tape... you're on the proper path, grasshopper

 

[Cal]

This is gotten OVERLY silly ! Who said ABS ?? You can't find a piece of ABS in that pic.

Do as Terry said. PLEASE !!!!

Cut the copper (2") on the down side of 90 #1 That's the part FARTHEST from the trap. Get a 2"DWV ( copper waste) x 2" PVC no-hub coupling w/stainless steel band. Put it on,tighten it,and proceed with 2"pvc pipe,fittings ,trap and then your 2" PVC 3 piece shower drain. Make sure your drain is level/plumb ...repair floor...on to next step.

 

[Psal2]

That is the plan NOW.

 

[Psal2]

I would use a mission coupling with a stainless cover over it, 2" plastic x 2" copper.

I am new to this and sometimes a lot dense...

3001-22 at Fernco looks like what you are talking about. This is a 2" cooper to 2" plastic Proflex coupling and looks like it has a stainless steel cover.

HD has a Fernco 2" X 2" rubber coupling with stainless steel bands only.

I have called 3 plumbling supply places around here and they either don't want to deal with an idiot like me or just handle contractors. And none had a Fernco or Mission coupling that was Cooper to Plastic. One said CI to PL, would that work?

 

[Psal2]

how to test the drain

I anticipate putting in the drain, trap, etc this weekend. How do I test for leaks?

I imagine that if it is done right, there is no need to really test but you don't know my luck...

 

[TheZster]

Pour plenty of water down the drain... a 5 gallon bucket is good - or a water hose - look for water at all joints