Should I move the shower drain to center??

[rufunky]

I started off having a plumber come in to get the rough plumbing work done. At that time I was going with a NEO angle prefab shower unit. I have since then decided against the prefab due to its tacky appeal.

Now I am debating on moving the drain while the floor is still wide open. The entrance angle will be the same as the prefab except for it will now be a square 39 x 39 curbless shower with two 19" panes of glass, leaving an opening to walk in.

I am open to any opinions tips thoughts you may have but please, if you vote, explain your reason!

I have posted a link to pictures below to better explain the scenario as google photo links do not appear to work with the image URL feature.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DEWbgsg9wUtvinP12

 

[Dj2]

You first buy your shower base, then place the drain according to the base.
The steps are 1-2-3. Not 3-1-2.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

In the center makes the entire floor slope consistently. Off center the floor to the closest walls has to slope more to maintain a level line at the wall.

 

[rufunky]

In the center makes the entire floor slope consistently. Off center the floor to the closest walls has to slope more to maintain a level line at the wall.

Right, this makes sense. What would be the best way to relocate the drain? Should I cut the pipe right before the 90 for the p trap, replace the 90, turn the trap 90 degrees so it goes under and out the opposite side of the other drain to where it is centered? If I do this I believe I would need a long sweep P trap otherwise I'd end up right under the other pipe.

 

[Jadnashua]

Ideally, the drain is in the center. A couple of things, depending on which way the trap arm runs, you still need to maintain the minimum slope. Also, the p-trap can be essentially backed up on itself. You also need to keep in mind that you want the riser out of the trap to be plumb. Generally, you'll also want to set the new receptor in some piles of mortar to help support the bottom from flexing and to ensure you can get it perfectly level.

Had you considered a tiled shower rather than a receptor? It's not as hard as you might think, but it is detail oriented...you have to cross all of your T's and dot all of your I's for it to work right. Check out www.johnbridge.com if you want some help on that. There are at least a few shower pans that you can tile that are premade should you want to go that route. Check out www.schluter.com and watch a few of their Kerdi shower construction videos to get an idea of one of the suppliers that make them.