Short cycling well pump.

[dfsrrt]

Before it is said, I already checked the pressure tank. Pressure is good, bladder in tacked.
The problem I am having is that the pump comes on for about two seconds, then shuts off for about ten seconds and continues this way till it reaches the set pressure for shutting off. This is occurring well below the shut off pressure. The pressure switch contacts stay engaged during the whole time. I gain about 1-2 psi each times it cycles. Kinda acts like a motor over heating tripping off and resetting, except it is happening to fast.
So any sugestions?

 

[Boycedrilling]

it Is either the overloads or the start relay sticking.

Is this a submersible pump or is it an above the ground pump and motor?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[dfsrrt]

It is a submerged pump.

 

[Valveman]

Check the amps. See if it is really overloading.

 

[dfsrrt]

DO I have to pull the pump to do that or better said, how do I do that?

 

[Valveman]

You need an amp meter to clip around one of the incoming hot wires to see how many amps the motor is drawing.

 

[SpottyJ]

Hello all, could use some counsel -

I am having the same issue as the original posting.

"The problem I am having is that the pump comes on for about two seconds, then shuts off for about ten seconds and continues this way till it reaches the set pressure for shutting off. This is occurring well below the shut off pressure. The pressure switch contacts stay engaged during the whole time. I gain about 1-2 psi each times it cycles. Kinda acts like a motor over heating tripping off and resetting, except it is happening to fast."

This issue just started a few days ago, and I only noticed as I was running out of water.

Some background on my system:

Submersible Pump (unsure of depth, and at least 35 years old)

6 month old 20 Gal Amtrol Pressure Tank (bladder set at 38 PSI). (So tank/bladder is holding pressure).

Check valve near the pressure switch was replaced 6 months ago.

The pressure tube/nipple is clear. And was newly installed 6 months ago.

Brand new (installed today to troubleshoot) Everbilt Well pressure Switch (Cutoffs - 40/60)​

Today, I drained the pressure tank and installed a new pressure switch today to see if it would remedy issue. Also verified that the pressure tank holds pressure, and is set at correct PSI (38 PSI).

Also, the "original" pressure switch was a 30/50, 6 months ago, I changed to a 40/60. (I hope did not strain my well pump to the point of failure).

Valveman suggested this -

You need an amp meter to clip around one of the incoming hot wires to see how many amps the motor is drawing.

I have a volt meter, but am unclear as to which wire to test. Would appreciate someone spelling it out. I understand this is 110/220, and will use caution.

1) By incoming hot wires, is that from the pump or from the circuit breaker?

2) So I set my meter for 220, and use the red on the black incoming wire (once I figure which one that is!). Then do I use black voltmeter lead to ground on the pressure switch?

Thanks in advance for the help.

See attached pic of the pressure switch wiring:

 

[Reach4]

2) So I set my meter for 220, and use the red on the black incoming wire (once I figure which one that is!). Then do I use black voltmeter lead to ground on the pressure switch?

You need a clamp-around ammeter / multimeter. No test leads involved.

I would try to grab around one of the black wires for your pressure switch. There are alternatives.

 

[SpottyJ]

You need a clamp-around ammeter / multimeter. No test leads involved.

I would try to grab around one of the black wires for your pressure switch. There are alternatives.

Thanks, I ordered one and it will here tomorrow.

https://www.amazon.com/MS2108-Voltm...+/+multimeter&qid=1556404510&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Thoughts on how to use and what I am looking for?

 

[Reach4]

Thoughts on how to use and what I am looking for?

Record the current and what is happening during the cycles. Post that, and Valveman can help interpret.

 

[Boycedrilling]

You use the red and black leads to measure voltage, resistance, or continuity. Think of voltage as the same as pressure.

You use a clamp on ampmeter to measure how many amps are flowing thru a wire, think of amps as the same as gallons per minute. You only place one wire at a time inside the clamp.

A motor at 120 volts will draw twice the amps as the same motor running on 240 volts. Some above ground motors can be wired for either voltage. Some larger 3 phase submersible motors have a replaceable plug to allow them to run on 240 volts or 480 volt 3 phase power.

 

[SpottyJ]

Update -

So using the clamp meter -

I used the 200/400A setting (I believe this is correct because the other amp setting is only up to 20 amps. And the well pump circuit breaker is a 30 amp circuit):


I metered/clamped each of the four wires (picture of my pressure switch attached) without and with pump running:

First Wire - black wire on left (power from breaker):

Pump Off: 0

Pump On: Initially varied at 9.8, then went steady to 6.1​

Second Wire - Black Wire (to pump, through some type of control box mounted on wall):

Pump Off: 0

Pump On: 5.5
​

Third Wire - White Wire (to pump, through some type of control box mounted on wall):

Pump Off: 0

Pump On: 5.8
​

Fourth Wire - White Wire (power from breaker):

Pump Off: 0

Pump On: 5.8

​

Now the extra bad news, it seemed to be cycling normally, just at cutoff setting during my testing. But after running the water to test, the pressure went to zero, and no sound of well pumping. Light clicking sound in a control box after the pressure switch and before the wire heads to the well. (I presume it is some type of control.) This box (picture attached) is slightly warm as well. Could that box be the issue?

I turned power off to well to give pump a rest/prevent overheat.


Any ideas is much appreciated.

 

[SpottyJ]

So I pulled the cover off my control box, and the capacitor is blown.

I am in search of a new 1/2 hp control box cover with capacitor.

But I wonder if my well is struggling and that is why the capacitor blew. Thoughts?

 

[Reach4]

But I wonder if my well is struggling and that is why the capacitor blew

That could well be.

If a pump runs out of water, the current drops. There are gadgets that monitor that current to shut the pump down for a while if you run out of water.

 

[SpottyJ]

That could well be.


If a pump runs out of water, the current drops. There are gadgets that monitor that current to shut the pump down for a while if you run out of water.

Thanks for the reply.

I am not thinking I ran out of water. Rather an old pump. The water table is very high. In 30 years never had a water capacity issue. Neighbors water is fine.

 

[Reach4]

I think most people with 1/2 HP pumps use 2-wire pumps. No control box.

I hope your next pump lasts another 35 years.

 

[SpottyJ]

I think most people with 1/2 HP pumps use 2-wire pumps. No control box.

I hope your next pump lasts another 35 years.

Thanks again.

Mine is a two wire. Yet has a Franklin control box. I had read that newer systems are 3 wire and do not have a control box.

I have no real experience, just a desire to understand and remedy my issue.

 

[Reach4]

In new pump terminology, with a 2-wire pump, you also have a ground wire.

Today if you are putting in wire for a 3-wire pump, you put in 4 wires.

What causes you to think you have a 2-wire pump. I have a 2-wire pump and a control box, but the control box has had its contents removed and there are just some wires with wire nuts.

 

[SpottyJ]

In new pump terminology, with a 2-wire pump, you also have a ground wire.

Today if you are putting in wire for a 3-wire pump, you put in 4 wires.

What causes you to think you have a 2-wire pump. I have a 2-wire pump and a control box, but the control box has had its contents removed and there are just some wires with wire nuts.

Thanks for the reply.

Two wire - with three wires. (Hot/neutral/ground).

I opened by control box and the capacitor was blown out the bottom. Still wet.

My new question is, is my old pump that is binding causing the capacitor to overheat? Or is my only issue the bad capacitor?

I am trying to find a new 1/2 control box (swap the cover), and see what happens. But suspect the capacitor is just a victim of something else going on.

 

[SpottyJ]

Attached are pics of the inside of the control box with blown capacitor. And the outside with the specs(1/2 hp, etc.)