Shared well pump with regular pressure switch with high pressure 88psi

[Kulig]

Hello guys. situation looks like this:
house is divided into two with separate crawl space access
1st house got pressure tank with regular switch at very high pressure 88psi ( no constant pressure switch) and no check valve that is good
2nd house got pressure tank too, no check valve, no pressure switch and various pressure at gauge between 50 to 65
and this tank is so rusted that not working at all. Need to be replaced.
2nd house owner got issues with cold water at sinks very low pressure, when I turn off supply to water heater there is almost no cold water pressure at sinks and showers, but still got high pressure at sillcock or any drain hose bibb
in my opinion water heater there works as pressure tank
Low water demand- low pressure
do I need to instal new pressure tank with check valve and ball valve to tank tee and another ball valve after tank tee (to be able to drain the system) that will help with low water pressure at sinks? I do not want to do anything at 1s house
any ideas?

 

[Kulig]

And have no clue how to setup pressure tank cut in pressure on 2nd house probably at 48 psi, it’s odd installation

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Fitter30]

Check the aerators at faucets.

 

[Kulig]

they are clean if I turn valve off at water heater supply line, there is almost no pressure everywhere where is low demand of water (faucets, showers)

 

[Valveman]

Probably a bad gauge at the first house. Stuck on 88 is not right. Should be going between 40 and 60 or so? Gauges are cheap. Put on a couple new ones so you can see what is really going on, and post some pictures.

 

[Kulig]

Didn’t check it but, so far I know pressure tank is 1 year old and all tank tee stuff is new stainless steel,
2nd house got sometimes 65 so I don’t think it’s bad gauge

 

[Kulig]

someone messed up this plumbing in 1st house Installing regular pressure switch, but I can’t involve 1st house owner with plumbing
crazy situation
just need to fix 2nd house low water pressure issues on fixtures I think new pressure tank with check valve will solve this… hopefully, but will have problem setting up cut in pressure on tank, because of variable pressure, mostly it’s steady 50-52, but sometimes going to 65, everything because of that pressure switch

 

[Valveman]

The pressure tank and pressure switch at the first house will determine the pressure on the entire system. Adding an additional pressure tank will make pressure lower for longer. If you want more pressure the house owner with control of the pressure will need to be involved. The only other thing you can do is add a booster or jet pump with a PK1A to boost the pressure you are getting to the second house. But even this requires the main well pump to be able to supply the volume needed, and the booster could lower the pressure at the first house.

 

[Kulig]

there is only low pressure at cold water, when valve that supplying water heater is off, then there is almost no water coming from shower or faucet, installed few drain valves on these pipes got high pressure same thing from sillcocks high pressure but gauge on pressure tank is at 60
there is some issue when you using small pipes like faucet has or shower body holes - small water demand small water pressure coming from it

 

[Kulig]

Hole house got 1/2” pipes btw
only 1” Polly pipe that supplying pressure tank

 

[Valveman]

there is only low pressure at cold water, when valve that supplying water heater is off, then there is almost no water coming from shower or faucet, installed few drain valves on these pipes got high pressure same thing from sillcocks high pressure but gauge on pressure tank is at 60
there is some issue when you using small pipes like faucet has or shower body holes - small water demand small water pressure coming from it

If the gauge on the tank is accurate, 60 PSI is the most you could have anywhere in the system.

 

[LLigetfa]

there is only low pressure at cold water, when valve that supplying water heater is off, then there is almost no water coming from shower or faucet

You cannot get accurate flow test results with that test from fixtures with anti-scald.

 

[Kulig]

2nd house got min 50psi all the time
pressure jumps between 50-65 but but still there is low water flow from faucet (hot water flow is higher)
funny thing is that when you shut off valve at water heater supply line (Turn off breaker first that feed water heater) there is almost no water flow from faucet and showers , but still got high water flow from sillcock, or for example a drain that is installed on cold line of shower body on 1st floor - drain has high pressure but shower body has almost no flow there is only about 6ft between drain and shower body (standard delta shower body)

in my opinion water heater works there as an storage tank because pressure tank is about 18years old and not working, so cold water is coming back from water heater to the rest of the house thats why got higher flow on hot water than cold when it’s on

I inspected all the plumbing there everything seems ok besides that there is only 1/2” pipe that feeds hole house, don’t like it but owner don’t want to change it to 3/4”
2floors house with:
2showers, 2 bath sinks, 2 toilets, kitchen sink, ice maker, laundry, dishwasher and 1 sillcock outside
btw 1 house owner was saying something about aerators that he need to clean everyday he don’t have any hole house filter also, but this can be an issue with high water pressure at his tank, some debris can clog 1/4” pipe that is connected to pressure switch
was there only 5min, because they are not home mostly

 

[Kulig]

2nd house has no issues with clogged aerators, but still he need hole house filter (probably in the future….)

 

[Valveman]

Unless there is air in the water heater it is not working like a pressure tank and cannot supply any water volume before or after the heater.

 

[Bannerman]

Most modern shower control valves are now pressure balancing or anti-scald as LL mentioned. With the hot water feed shut off to the shower valve, most valves will allow at best, only minimal cold water flow.

 

[Kulig]

could be some trapped air, didn’t check it because owner installed it without pipe to relieve valve and it’s under stairs, will do it after he finish tiles

 

[Kulig]

You cannot get accurate flow test results with that test from fixtures with anti-scald.

You could be right will check it at speedy valve but still have issue with low water flow of cold water if water heater suppy is on

 

[Kulig]

I’m not familiar with shared well systems but for me 1st house suppose to have constant pressure switch not regular, then 2nd house pressure tank witch check valve, or without pressure tank at all with only check valve
will see Friday after replacing pressure tank

 

[Valveman]

1st house suppose to have constant pressure switch not regular,
will see Friday after replacing pressure tank

Something is probably wrong with the constant pressure pump as it is suppose to keep "constant pressure", not the 50-65 thing as you mentioned. A pressure tank is worthless with a real constant pressure system. A pressure tank needs a pressure variation or differential to hold any water. When a system is always as at a set constant pressure like 60 PSI, no water goes in or out of a pressure tank.