Shallow Well Pump Wiring

[zeetwoeight]

Good day all,
I purchased a country cabin with a shallow well pump. I am a complete newbie when it comes to pumps so I have a question on the way it was wired up. Please see attached diagram (NOTE: I can't recall if that fuse was a 25A or 30A but it was larger than 20A - which I thought was wrong since the 12/2 is for 20A correct?). Couple of questions:
1. I'm assuming the switch/fuse panel is there to server two purposes: first a way to easily turn off the pump rather than just unplugging it ; second to handle the initial startup load and avoid tripping the 15 breaker? Would that be the case?

2. If I wanted to replace the switch/fuse panel could I use an outlet controlled by a single pole switch (both 20A rated) fed directly from a 20A breaker in the main panel? This still allows me to turn off the pump easily.

3. If my #1 point above is not the case, can I just use an outlet controlled by a single pole switch (both 15A rated) fed directly from a 15A breaker in the main panel?

Thanks for an input/info. Cheers.

 

[Valveman]

Yes that would work, but a plug or outlet with that much current is not a good idea.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

I'm assuming the switch/fuse panel is there to server two purposes: first a way to easily turn off the pump rather than just unplugging it ; second to handle the initial startup load and avoid tripping the 15 breaker? Would that be the case?

No. Having a larger than 15A fuse matters not since the 15A breaker will trip at 15A regardless since they are in series. Why do you want to replace it?

 

[zeetwoeight]

Yes that would work, but a plug or outlet with that much current is not a good idea.

Any reason why it would not be a good idea? Pretty certain now that code in our area calls for 20A (T-slot) outlets in kitchen areas so would there be any reason why having a 20A for something like the pump would be a concern?

No. Having a larger than 15A fuse matters not since the 15A breaker will trip at 15A regardless since they are in series. Why do you want to replace it?

Not necessarily going to replace it but I was curious as to why a switch/fuse panel would be used to control a pump rated at ~7A over a regular single pole switch + outlet. So if the 15A would trip anyways, what is having the 25A fuse between pump to panel connection providing?

Trying to undertsand why this was done more than anything. And if there is a better way to do it using a basic switch + outlet combo.

Thanks!

 

[LLigetfa]

what is having the 25A fuse between pump to panel connection providing?

Continuity. My guess was they used it for the local disconnect. If it bothers you, you could always put in a slow-blow 15A fuse JIC the 15A breaker fails to trip. Keep in mind that the 14/2 wire determines the fuse size.
A light switch that switches the max 15A load while to code, would not last long if switched often when hot. An air conditioner local disconnect would be a better choice.

 

[LLigetfa]

Any reason why it would not be a good idea? Pretty certain now that code in our area calls for 20A (T-slot) outlets in kitchen areas so would there be any reason why having a 20A for something like the pump would be a concern?

A 20A kitchen outlet would not normally make/break under load. If it did, it would not last long.

My wife has a bad habit of unplugging the coffee maker under load and the arcing damaged both the outlet and the plug. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

 

[Reach4]

A 115 volt 1/2 HP pump draws over 60 amps for a very brief time at start. Normally such a pump gets fed from a 30 amp breaker, but maybe you could find a slower blow 2o amp breaker. Or maybe your existing breaker is slow-enough blow.

You could consider getting a 1/2 HP 230 volt pump. That would usually call for a 2-pole 15 amp breaker.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah the breaker needs to be large enough. But that many amps through an outlet will cause some heat. I would hard wire it and turn off with the breaker when needed.

 

[zeetwoeight]

Thanks for all the input folks. Truly appreciated. Agreed - I think they were using it as the disconnect rather than going to the main panel and cutting the breaker. I definitely want a way to cut the pump power from where the pump is rather than across the room so I think I will look at a new AC cutoff and hardware through to the panel. Next time I head out I'll get more details on the pump to determine manufactures specs - I have seen some pumps that are switchable from 115/230 - this may be one and they were using 115V as just wanted to use a breaker they had. I think I have a free 2-pole 15A now that a lot of the old wiring has been removed. I may be back with additional questions for you fine folks.
Cheers.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks for all the input folks. Truly appreciated. Agreed - I think they were using it as the disconnect rather than going to the main panel and cutting the breaker.

They may have removed the pump over the winter to keep it from freezing.

 

[Jeff H Young]

kind of confusing here.. First Id find out what pump I had or was installing. then I would investigate electrical needs of pump. next inspect size of wire that I had and fuses etc and see if its compatable/ code compliant. finaly decide whether I need to upgrade or leave it alone

 

[Reach4]

kind of confusing here.. First Id find out what pump I had or was installing. then I would investigate electrical needs of pump. next inspect size of wire that I had and fuses etc and see if its compatable/ code compliant. finaly decide whether I need to upgrade or leave it alone

I had assumed 1/2 HP shallow jet pump. If it is something else, that would affect wiring choices.

 

[zeetwoeight]

I had assumed 1/2 HP shallow jet pump. If it is something else, that would affect wiring choices.

Current pump is 1/3HP, 115V and 7A rated (all stamped on the pump). The pump was fully functional when we purchased the cabin. But I had to have some reno work done to remediate a crawl space and therefore a lot of wires were cut. Not that it matter as I wanted to run all new anyways as there was no clear record of what was wired where in the panel (and the number of junction boxes for joins throughout was a bit overwhelming) but I know the pump wiring was done as per the diagram provided.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Not an electrition here , I would inspect to see what I have befor determinig what I need. to me its a guessing game . once pump requirements are known the rest can be figured out. length of run a factor?

 

[zeetwoeight]

Agreed. Gonna check out the pump next time I'm on site. As for run from pump to main panel... about 12-15 feet.

 

[Jeff H Young]

at least its a short run. thats good

 

[zeetwoeight]

Got a photo of the pump and the switch. The switch had a 25A fuse in it. So as per the diagram posted in my original post, the distance from pump to outlet is about 2 ft ; outlet to 30A switch about 1 ft (12/2 wire) ; switch to main panel 14 ft (14/2 wire to a 15A breaker).