Sewer lateral cleaning question

tropostudio

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The main sewer cleanout for my home has a 4" sanitary tee with a short 4" stub up at the basement slab, close to the foundation. From there you run through 4" black for a combo of 4" PVC and black iron to get under th footing and claer of the foundation wall (8--10' of horizontal). At that point it expands to 6" sectional clay pipe out to the street (another 45'-47'). The mix of stuff is beacuse its a 1915 home that we renovated.

The 6" clay pipe still flows fine, excpet for periodic root matts that start catching TP, etc. The pipe is pretty straight, not cracked, no cave ins, no joints shifts. I've scoped it a couple times. To save the $$$ rooting costs every 3-5 years, I bought a 7/8" steel sectional coil cable that I run with a Milwaukee Hole-Hawg. End tools are T-22 t-slide connected (Ridgid C-10 equivalent). A 3" spiral saw is my biggest tool. It work OK, except that 3" saw makes anice hole through the center of a couple of root matts without cleaning to the pipe wall.

Can soemone suggest th est way to take out the last 1"-2" annulus of of roots flush to the pipe wall, knowing I have to start at 4", make a bend, and then expand to 6"? We aren't looking for de-scaled clean here. A tool or a couple of tools that Fit T-22/C-10 with agood chance of chowing it clean is what I'm after. I can check the work with a scope. A 'B+' job I do every couple of years with minimal additional tools would be fine. I'm not looking to buy a drain cleaning rig with flex shaft, etc.

Thank you!
 

Reach4

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Some speak well of Root-X. Root-X foams, to try to also kill the roots on the top part of the pipe.

If I wanted to kill the plant sending roots, I would look into glyphosate.
 

Sylvan

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The main sewer cleanout for my home has a 4" sanitary tee with a short 4" stub up at the basement slab, close to the foundation. From there you run through 4" black for a combo of 4" PVC and black iron to get under th footing and claer of the foundation wall (8--10' of horizontal). At that point it expands to 6" sectional clay pipe out to the street (another 45'-47'). The mix of stuff is beacuse its a 1915 home that we renovated.

The 6" clay pipe still flows fine, excpet for periodic root matts that start catching TP, etc. The pipe is pretty straight, not cracked, no cave ins, no joints shifts. I've scoped it a couple times. To save the $$$ rooting costs every 3-5 years, I bought a 7/8" steel sectional coil cable that I run with a Milwaukee Hole-Hawg. End tools are T-22 t-slide connected (Ridgid C-10 equivalent). A 3" spiral saw is my biggest tool. It work OK, except that 3" saw makes anice hole through the center of a couple of root matts without cleaning to the pipe wall.

Can soemone suggest th est way to take out the last 1"-2" annulus of of roots flush to the pipe wall, knowing I have to start at 4", make a bend, and then expand to 6"? We aren't looking for de-scaled clean here. A tool or a couple of tools that Fit T-22/C-10 with agood chance of chowing it clean is what I'm after. I can check the work with a scope. A 'B+' job I do every couple of years with minimal additional tools would be fine. I'm not looking to buy a drain cleaning rig with flex shaft, etc.

Thank you!
I used copper sulfate to kill tree roots, particularly those growing in sewer lines or septic systems. It works by dehydrating the roots and preventing further growth, but it's crucial to use it cautiously as it can harm the surrounding environment and potentially other plants if not applied properly.

Just be careful and check with local officials if they would allow it
 
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