Sewage Basin

[$pit]

In an attempt to replace a basement sewage ejector pump, I noticed that the sewage basin was completely dry. It has been several years since the pump worked. I decided to fill the basin with 3 gallons of water and toilet bowl cleaner and test the level after one night. The basin was completely dry the next morning. I could not find a hole through a visual inspection. Is there any trick to finding a hole or slow leak?

Also, the house was built in the early 1980s and I am concerned there maybe a hack job of putting a polyethylene pit over an older pit (possibly lead). Would a house built in the 1980s use a lead sewage pit / sump pit. Are there any safe ways to remove a lead liner if that is what I am dealing with.

In order to remove the old basin what is the minimum amount of concrete that I would have to break up around the basin. Would a 1/2 inch from the lip be enough using an impact drill and masonry bit? I don't want to damage too much tile and wood work around the basin.

 

[Smooky]

If it is completely dry the hole would have to be at the bottom. Probably around the edge. It might be worth trying to repair.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

You might look into marine sealants. http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/How-to-Select-Sealants-and-Caulk Not-fast 3M 5200 would be very good, but there could be cheaper alternatives.

 

[$pit]

Thank you both for your information. I agree with your feedback it would be best to salvage what is there before ripping out the whole thing. If I did have to break up the concrete and remove the old basin, is there any guidance on how far from the lip of the basin the concrete needs to be broken?

 

[Oldyellr]

Pour concrete in the bottom. Lasts for decades, 100x cheaper than getting basin installed.