Setting up 250gal water storage tank

[Dave Morgan]

first time on the forum...I am setting up a 250gal (it's the biggest I can fit in the space I have) to help compensate for a low producing well. I am hoping I can get some advice and a sanity check on the plan so far. What I am looking to do is this:
* Existing well pump pumps to 250gal tank, controlled by Cycle Sensor from Cycle Stop Valve and a float switch to turn it on and off.
* A submersible pump in the tank (so far I am thinking either the Franklin Electric C1 or the StaRite 20DOM05121 S.T.E.P. Plus™ D series 4" Submersible Pumps. NO float witch to protect low water level in tank. Controled by Cycle Stop Valve PK1A pside-kick.

Questions are; any recommendation or validation on the submersible pump for the tank? Does the scenario I have set up seem valid?

I know that a Well Manager system would do a better job, but at ~$6K it is just not feasible. This is a weekend cabin for us and the goal is to provide some buffer for the house when usage higher than normal.

 

[Jadnashua]

Without a pressure tank after the storage tank, every time you need water, if I understand what you have, the pump would turn on. That's not a recipe for long-life on the pump motor.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dave Morgan]

Without a pressure tank after the storage tank, every time you need water, if I understand what you have, the pump would turn on. That's not a recipe for long-life on the pump motor.

Thanks for the quick reply! Good catch, sorry for not being clear on the components...The PK1A pside-kick is a constant pressure system that incorporates a pressure switch, pressure tank, constant pressure valve and gauge. The PK1A would control the pump in the tank. I think this set-up will work, but when it comes to specific product brands and implementation I do not have the experience to know I am selecting reliable components.

 

[Reach4]

Questions are; any recommendation or validation on the submersible pump for the tank? Does the scenario I have set up seem valid?

Scenario is valid. I presume you read https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ow-flow-well-cistern-house.61658/#post-483818​

 

[Dave Morgan]

Scenario is valid. I presume you read https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ow-flow-well-cistern-house.61658/#post-483818​

I did not, but have now...obviously on the right track. I think I am good to go now. Thanks again for the great advice and direction!

 

[Dave Morgan]

Thanks Reach4. Did some reviewing this weekend and have most of the plan worked out, just have a couple questions before moving forward. The scenario for my storage tank system looks something like this; Water comes in from the well to feed the storage, controlled by a NC float switch up top to signal demand for water in tank, and protected for cycling or dry run by a CSV Cycle Sensor ===> Submersible pump in 250gal storage tank pumps to my existing pressure tank with pressure switch, check valve, gauge etc. A NO float switch will protect the tank pump in the case of the tank emptying. Basically the existing pressure tank stays as is but controls the storage tank pump instead of the well pump. Brands I am considering are Custom Roto Mold on the tank, StaRite ST.E.P pump, Goulds 230v float swtches, PVC pipe.

My questions are...for the pipe that comes in from the well to feed the storage tank, does it need a check valve? What is the best way of connecting the pipe to the tank, I was planning to use a bulkhead fitting and was going to run the pipe about 2/3 of the way down the tank. Is that the correct way to do it? For the pipe coming out from the tank pump, I was thinking the same set up of pipe through a bulkhead fitting over tot he pressure tank. I assume since the pressure tank set up has a check valve I do need another one on the output from the tank, is that a correct assumption? Lastly, all existing piping is 3/4". is there any reason I should the size on the incoming pipe from the well to the tank? The fitting on the tank pump is 1 1/4", does it matter where I make the transition down to 3/4" to meet up with the pressure tank?

Sorry for the lengthy post

 

[Reach4]

My questions are...for the pipe that comes in from the well to feed the storage tank, does it need a check valve?

Presuming you have a submersible pump in the well, it will have a check valve. That is the only one you want.

I was planning to use a bulkhead fitting and was going to run the pipe about 2/3 of the way down the tank. Is that the correct way to do it? For the pipe coming out from the tank pump, I was thinking the same set up of pipe through a bulkhead fitting over tot he pressure tank. I assume since the pressure tank set up has a check valve I do need another one on the output from the tank, is that a correct assumption?

I don't know about those fittings, but what you say sounds good.

I assume since the pressure tank set up has a check valve I do need another one on the output from the tank, is that a correct assumption?

Does that STEP pump have its own check valve? You should not want one at the pressure tank.

Lastly, all existing piping is 3/4". is there any reason I should the size on the incoming pipe from the well to the tank? The fitting on the tank pump is 1 1/4", does it matter where I make the transition down to 3/4" to meet up with the pressure tank?

I doubt that matters.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

This is probably not what you have in mind and is a stupid suggestion .....but here goes anyway

If this is just for a cabin you could probably just get by with a well pump and some sort
of shut off fill switch in the 250 gallon tank wired to the well pump..... Granger would have someting


I dont know how rustic this cabin is ,
perhaps it is just a nasty fishing cabin in canada.... In theory a simple 1/2 horse power Zoeller sump pump
down in that 250 gallon tank could pump enough pressure into the lines to do a basic low pressure shower, toilet flush ect..... You would probably want to throw some bleach into that 250 gallon tank once in a while to keep the micorbes in check.....

This approach would be extremely low tech but would basically work by just flipping a
switch to turn on the sump pump when you needed water.......

Of course if the cabin is real nice and you wanted more luxury and constant pressure.....
this might not be a good enough solution.....

just spit-balling here