Septic Riser.

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Reach4

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I am guessing that many people would rather not have a manhole-looking thing in the yard. Also, maybe kids would open it up? If I had a riser, it would be good if it were flush and you could mow over it.
 

Smooky

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It is required here, but there are many pre existing tanks that do not have a riser. Often the riser is removed after all inspections are done so the yard can be landscaped if the customer request for it to be removed.

15A NCAC 18A .1952 SEPTIC TANK, EFFLUENT FILTER, DOSING TANK AND LIFT STATION DESIGN
(a)
……..Septic tanks installed where the top will be deeper than six inches below the finished grade shall have an access manhole over each compartment with cover, extending to within six inches of the finished grade, having a minimum opening adequate to accommodate the installation or removal of the septic tank lid, septage removal, and maintenance of the effluent filter. When the top of the septic tank or access manhole is below the finished grade, the location of each manhole shall be visibly marked at finished grade……..
15A NCAC 18A .1954 MINIMUM STANDARDS FOR PRECAST REINFORCED CONCRETE TANKS
(b) (5) Tanks shall be vented and accessible for routine maintenance. A watertight access manhole with removable lid shall be provided over the pump with a minimum diameter of 24 inches. The access manhole shall extend at least to six inches above finished grade and be designed and maintained to prevent surface water inflow. Larger or multiple manholes shall be provided when two or more pumps are required. Pumps shall be removable without requiring entrance into the tank. Manhole lids and electrical controls shall be secured against unauthorized access. Manhole risers shall be joined to the tank top and sealed in accordance with Paragraphs (a)(14) and (b)(4) of this Rule.
 

Cameron Fields

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The installers just did not want to spend the time and money to do it, period.
That's what I figured; the man who came out to pump said "You need to clean this filter out once every month" Then proceeded to tell me I didn't need it and that I could take it out. I was appalled. Then my aunt just moved into a new house and they put a brand new septic with a riser which is flush to the ground and can easily be accessed. I was like is my plumber being cheap or what. I guess I am going to DIY a riser to my existing one. Will I need to check for a permit or am I good. Florida Citrus County? Thanks I just want it done proper and legal but I can't afford my local absorbent fees.
And thanks HJ for always keeping it straight.
Also mine is flush to the ground I am not on a mound they installed it before that was a requirement and the county told me I was ok.
 

Cameron Fields

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It is required here, but there are many pre existing tanks that do not have a riser. Often the riser is removed after all inspections are done so the yard can be landscaped if the customer request for it to be removed.

15A NCAC 18A .1952 SEPTIC TANK, EFFLUENT FILTER, DOSING TANK AND LIFT STATION DESIGN
(a)
……..Septic tanks installed where the top will be deeper than six inches below the finished grade shall have an access manhole over each compartment with cover, extending to within six inches of the finished grade, having a minimum opening adequate to accommodate the installation or removal of the septic tank lid, septage removal, and maintenance of the effluent filter. When the top of the septic tank or access manhole is below the finished grade, the location of each manhole shall be visibly marked at finished grade……..
15A NCAC 18A .1954 MINIMUM STANDARDS FOR PRECAST REINFORCED CONCRETE TANKS
(b) (5) Tanks shall be vented and accessible for routine maintenance. A watertight access manhole with removable lid shall be provided over the pump with a minimum diameter of 24 inches. The access manhole shall extend at least to six inches above finished grade and be designed and maintained to prevent surface water inflow. Larger or multiple manholes shall be provided when two or more pumps are required. Pumps shall be removable without requiring entrance into the tank. Manhole lids and electrical controls shall be secured against unauthorized access. Manhole risers shall be joined to the tank top and sealed in accordance with Paragraphs (a)(14) and (b)(4) of this Rule.
Thanks, mine is one tank with two lids and about 5 inches below the ground could be a little more its concrete and the guy told me its one of the larger models for private residence I think over 650 gallons but I can't remember was about a year ago. I just kept putting it off for personal reasons.
Thanks for the reply
Learning more everyday.
 

hj

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You do not need anything except a couple of pieces of pipe, two covers, and some cement. Along with someone to dig the holes. The common openings in a cement tank or about 6"-8" square so you may need 6" pipe for the risers.
 

Smooky

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Here is what the Florida rules say:
(k) Each compartment shall have access using manholes, with each manhole having a minimum area of 225 square inches.
Manholes shall be located so as to allow access to the inlet and outlet devices. A minimum 6-inch diameter opening shall be
placed at the inlet and outlet ends of the lid if a minimum 225 square inch access port is placed in the middle of the lid. The
access manhole over the inlet and outlet shall extend to within 8 inches of finished grade. If a riser is used, and if the riser
access lid opens directly to the receptacle interior, joints around the riser and receptacle shall be sealed and made watertight as
specified in paragraph 64E-6.013(2)(i), F.A.C., to prohibit intrusion of ground water into the receptacle. For multicompartment
receptacles or receptacles in series, manholes shall extend to within 8 inches of finished grade over the first
compartment inlet and the last compartment outlet. An appropriate mechanism shall be provided to make access manholes
vandal, tamper, and child resistant. Acceptable protection of openings shall consist of one or more of the following methods as
specified by the manufacturer:
1. A padlock.
2. A twist lock cover requiring special tools for removal.
3. Covers weighing 58 pounds or more, net weight.
4. A hinge and hasp mechanism which uses stainless steel or other corrosion resistant fasteners to fasten the hinge and
hasp to the lid and receptacle for fiberglass, metal or plastic lids..
http://www.floridahealth.gov/statis...ng-and-reporting/_documents/64-e6.pdf#search="septic tank requirements"
 

Cameron Fields

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Here is what the Florida rules say:
(k) Each compartment shall have access using manholes, with each manhole having a minimum area of 225 square inches.
Manholes shall be located so as to allow access to the inlet and outlet devices. A minimum 6-inch diameter opening shall be
placed at the inlet and outlet ends of the lid if a minimum 225 square inch access port is placed in the middle of the lid. The
access manhole over the inlet and outlet shall extend to within 8 inches of finished grade. If a riser is used, and if the riser
access lid opens directly to the receptacle interior, joints around the riser and receptacle shall be sealed and made watertight as
specified in paragraph 64E-6.013(2)(i), F.A.C., to prohibit intrusion of ground water into the receptacle. For multicompartment
receptacles or receptacles in series, manholes shall extend to within 8 inches of finished grade over the first
compartment inlet and the last compartment outlet. An appropriate mechanism shall be provided to make access manholes
vandal, tamper, and child resistant. Acceptable protection of openings shall consist of one or more of the following methods as
specified by the manufacturer:
1. A padlock.
2. A twist lock cover requiring special tools for removal.
3. Covers weighing 58 pounds or more, net weight.
4. A hinge and hasp mechanism which uses stainless steel or other corrosion resistant fasteners to fasten the hinge and
hasp to the lid and receptacle for fiberglass, metal or plastic lids..
http://www.floridahealth.gov/statis...ng-and-reporting/_documents/64-e6.pdf#search="septic tank requirements"
Thanks that's exactly what I needed.
 
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