Seeking rigged solution for countertop dishwasher supply

[Carrotguy]

Hello everybody - I'm glad to see this forum is still here. I'm in a very serious time constraint for the next ~5 weeks and I bought a countertop dishwasher to help save some time. I bought the model with larger capacity and saw that it required a hot water supply line, assuming I would be able to piece together a few adapters and be able to make it work.

It turns out that the supply line is proprietary and is designed to screw into the sink faucet. I have a Delta touch faucet and it will not work with the fittings. This is an older house that I aim to renovate in the next couple of years, and whatever solution that's available doesn't need to consider appearance. Here goes...

The kitchen cabinet has a 1/2 hot water PEX line fed under the sink. It ends at a 3/8 compression shutoff valve where the faucet connects and it works great. My goal was to install a 3/8 compression tee, run some kind of line up to a PEX line that goes out a kitchen counter cabinet, then terminate into another shutoff value which could feed into dishwasher manufacturer's proprietary supply line. I went to Teter's faucet supply in Dallas (nice dudes), and they advised me that:
-The faucet supply is a Quick Connect (they sold me a couple of adapters to go from Quick Connect to 3/8 compression)
-The lines *out* from the Quick Connect inlet terminate into proprietary connections and cannot be extended.

I had to rent a van to pick the dishwasher up from the store, and the box was busted up a little (the unit itself is fine), so I really didn't want to go through the effort of returning the dishwasher for a smaller model. The problem seems to be that compression fittings might be "the last mile" of the run, and I will not be able to find shutoff valves and adapters that can take me back and forth from 3/8 brass compression->PEX->back to 3/8 brass compression.

What would be the quickest and *dirtiest and fastest* way to take the 1/2 PEX line from under the sink, split it to my faucet, then another 1/2" PEX run, through a cabinet to a shutoff valve fastened to the wall (maybe 2' away from the sink). I had to buy a steel kitchen cart to support the dishwasher because it's too tall for my countertop 8)

edit- the PEX is Cash Acme PEX OT... I couldn't see an easy-to-find web reference, but we bought it a long time ago. I'm pretty sure it's designed for sharkbite.

 

[wwhitney]

The narrative is a bit hard to follow. What is the make and model of the dishwasher? A diagram showing what you have, with connection types and with the type needed to connect to the dishwasher would help.

A couple questions: why do you need a separate shutoff valve for the dishwasher, vs just relying on the single hot water shutoff under the sink, and putting a tee on the fixture side of that valve?

You asked for 3/8" compression - PEX - 3/8" compression. Is there some reason a very long 3/8" compression x 3/8" compression supply wouldn't work? They are available at least up to 10' long.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Carrotguy]

A couple questions: why do you need a separate shutoff valve for the dishwasher, vs just relying on the single hot water shutoff under the sink, and putting a tee on the fixture side of that valve?

It's a countertop dishwasher that's made to be disconnected often. Without a separate shutoff valve, any time I disconnect the dishwasher, the hot water would have to remain off.

You asked for 3/8" compression - PEX - 3/8" compression. Is there some reason a very long 3/8" compression x 3/8" compression supply wouldn't work? They are available at least up to 10' long.

That *would* work, but I'm really hoping to have a shutoff valve somewhere after the Quick Connect faucet inlet shown in the photo. The only compression valves I found online (home depot, didn't burn too much time looking for shutoff valves) were plastic and seemed to be designed for other plastic fittings, but I could be wrong. It doesn't have to be 3/8 compression to PEX. I only mentioned that as my initial plan (conceived without knowing really what I was doing). If I have to cut the existing fitting from the PEX under the sink, then run any other series of fittings, PEX, and tees, I would do that but the time constraint is big consideration.

This photo from the Home Depot website (where I ordered the Dishwasher) shows how their connection is supposed to feed from the kitchen faucet. I wish I would have seen it before I ordered it. The photo doesn't seem to appear on the item description when viewing that model.

edit- the supply lines that come out of that plastic contraption have threading that isn't flare and isn't compression (according to Teter's) and seems to be proprietary. I could call Magic Chef and ask them for tips but I would prefer to leave all of their contraption in one piece, and have their Quick Connect-to-compression removable from a shutoff valve.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Would this work for you? One end on the existing stop hot water valve, one for the sink, the other the dishwasher but you'll need to dive under the cabinet to turn off the dishwasher. The second picture with the blue handle is an inline 3/8" put and fit type fitting.

https://www.ebay.com/c/745936331

https://milehydro.com/product/shut-off-valve-merlin-tallboy/

 

[wwhitney]

That *would* work, but I'm really hoping to have a shutoff valve somewhere after the Quick Connect faucet inlet shown in the photo.

After meaning upstream? The brass parts in your first photo let you hook up a 3/8" compression supply to the dishwasher inlet, rather than a faucet? If one of those brass connections is 1/2" MIP/FIP or 3/8" MIP/FIP, I expect you can get a straight stop with IPS threads (and might need a nipple). Or if you want to use two 3/8" compression hoses , you could put a 3/8" compression stop in the middle.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...urn-Straight-Ball-Valve-KTCR11FX-C1/203309315

Edit: that one's actually "3/8 Female Compression" x 3/8" Compression. So it could go on the end of the brass assembly if that's a 3/8" male compression threads minus the compression nut. But to go between two 3/8" compression supply lines, which have "female compression" ends, you'd need a 3/8" compression coupler, minus the nuts.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Carrotguy]

Would this work for you? One end on the existing stop hot water valve, one for the sink, the other the dishwasher but you'll need to dive under the cabinet to turn off the dishwasher. The second picture with the blue handle is an inline 3/8" put and fit type fitting.

https://www.ebay.com/c/745936331

https://milehydro.com/product/shut-off-valve-merlin-tallboy/

Hey! that three-way diverter looks perfect. It ships from China though, and may not arrive until late January. The plastic shutoffs seem doable but I'm not sure how well they hold up, if they get bumped around or moved often. Thanks for the ebay/diverter link - I may order that at some point.

After meaning upstream? The brass parts in your first photo let you hook up a 3/8" compression supply to the dishwasher inlet, rather than a faucet? If one of those brass connections is 1/2" MIP/FIP or 3/8" MIP/FIP, I expect you can get a straight stop with IPS threads (and might need a nipple). Or if you want to use two 3/8" compression hoses , you could put a 3/8" compression stop in the middle.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...urn-Straight-Ball-Valve-KTCR11FX-C1/203309315

Edit: that one's actually "3/8 Female Compression" x 3/8" Compression. So it could go on the end of the brass assembly if that's a 3/8" male compression threads minus the compression nut. But to go between two 3/8" compression supply lines, which have "female compression" ends, you'd need a 3/8" compression coupler, minus the nuts.

Cheers, Wayne

This looks like the best solution - thanks a lot. Connecting the shutoff valve at the MIP connections will allow use of the contraption's Quick connect when pushing the dishwasher aside when unused. Thanks!